Most versatile…. Scale length?

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gunch

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Yeah I have baritones on the brain today but I’m trying to spitball ideas for one with the scale length that can do drop C# no problem all the way down to dummy low tunings like drop or octave E0 (expecting to get dummy thicc strings) Would 27 or 28 inch be that happy middle ground?
 

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gh0styboi

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I mean, you could get away with it on a 26.5" probably, but for octave E, I wouldn't go shorter than at least 27" personally. The other problem is you're going to have to cut the nut slots for the large string size difference, and once they're cut for a .80 or so on the low end, a .48 or .52 for the low C# isn't gonna work properly anymore...

I'd say get a cheap second guitar, or grab a multiscale 8 and tune accordingly - going down to octave E on an 8 string puts you at D/drop C on the low E spot.
 

ixlramp

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E0 is an octave below bass guitar low E, i assume you mean E1 :)
once they're cut for a .80 or so on the low end, a .48 or .52 for the low C# isn't gonna work properly anymore...
This is very often stated but actually not true, from my experience using guitar gauges on bass guitars, and from the physics/mechanics. Probably no problems as long as the nut slot floor is semi-circular (as it should be) and you have downforce at the nut.
 

gunch

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E0 is an octave below bass guitar low E, i assume you mean E1 :)

This is very often stated but actually not true, from my experience using guitar gauges on bass guitars, and from the physics/mechanics. Probably no problems as long as the nut slot floor is semi-circular (as it should be) and you have downforce at the nut.
I meant E1 yeah. And I could go with a trem/ locking nut solution. I don’t want to live in E1, more C# and A# mostly.
 

Crungy

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You mean regular drop C# right? Not a low C# on a 9 string?
 

gh0styboi

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E0 is an octave below bass guitar low E, i assume you mean E1 :)

This is very often stated but actually not true, from my experience using guitar gauges on bass guitars, and from the physics/mechanics. Probably no problems as long as the nut slot floor is semi-circular (as it should be) and you have downforce at the nut.
Weird - putting a low B .56 on my 7 string filed out for F# with an .85 causes all sorts of problems...
 

gunch

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You mean regular drop C# right? Not a low C# on a 9 string?
Yes, C#2 to E1 is my bottom string range need

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This is what I really want but it's only a 2016-17 model. Also considering maybe a PRS SE 277 or a TOM Viper Baritone
 
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lattjeful

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My vote goes to 28". 27" is too unstable for the low stuff (E1 or lower), and 30" is too tight for higher tuned stuff. 28" offers just enough leeway in either direction. It may not quite be your sound or vibe, but it's not unplayable tuned higher, as long as you use thin enough strings.
 

Dayn

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E1 or even D1 on a 28" is pretty stable. An .80-.90 would get you there easy.
I agree with this. I use a .090 for E1 at 27" and find it fine (used to use .080), and a .090 for D1 at 28.3" I find to be great.
 

gh0styboi

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If you pick heavy like I do, 80 on 29” scale still goes sharp tuned to E1. If your right hand is aggressive, I’d opt for a 90.
I tend to pick harder as well, and when I go down to octave E, I personally use at least a .90. I think I have a .95 though StringJoy on my 8 string at a 28" scale to E1 at the moment.
 

G_3_3_k_

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I tend to pick harder as well, and when I go down to octave E, I personally use at least a .90. I think I have a .95 though StringJoy on my 8 string at a 28" scale to E1 at the moment.


I don’t like the added low end, so I tend to stick with the .80 and deal with the notes going sharp sometimes. Also, nuts on the guitars I play have to be custom made any the builder, so I don’t want to have to file one unless I absolutely have to.
 

gh0styboi

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I don’t like the added low end, so I tend to stick with the .80 and deal with the notes going sharp sometimes. Also, nuts on the guitars I play have to be custom made any the builder, so I don’t want to have to file one unless I absolutely have to.
Not gonna lie, I probably wouldn't touch a custom-builder nut either if I didn't have to. Picking harder is also something that we can adjust as players, so it's not like I can't pick lighter if necessary, but I just hate softening up on some things - feels so much better to hammer it out sometimes haha.
 

G_3_3_k_

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Not gonna lie, I probably wouldn't touch a custom-builder nut either if I didn't have to. Picking harder is also something that we can adjust as players, so it's not like I can't pick lighter if necessary, but I just hate softening up on some things - feels so much better to hammer it out sometimes haha.

Unfortunately for me, I’ve found that a lighter touch means a cleaner, clearer tone. Under high gain a harder attack doesn’t add loudness or punch. It adds harmonics. You’re already maxing out the dynamic range of the preamp enough to clip it. More isn’t more loud. It’s more compression and clipping. So I’ve actually been trying to pull back and use my harder attacks to add harmonics and compression rather than thinking of it translating as more impact. It’s more texture.
 

7stringDemon

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30"
You'll rarely play cowboy chords on a baritone

Also...cowboy chords are overrated

I bought my baritone specifically to play cowboy chords 🤠

On topic, mine is the Warmoth 28-5/8 which i believe is supposed to be exactly two lower frets longer than a 25.5? I dont remember. Either way, I think this is the right medium point. A lot of people think 27 is going to get them oodles of extra tension, but in reality, it only gets you about a half step lower while keeping the same tension as your 25.5. And subsequently, my 28-5/8 only lets me get a full step down. It also doesnt really feel too crazy. Its definitely longer, but still fun and playable for all my usual riffs. REALLY fun.

I guess what I mean by that, is that 27 is sort of the bottom of baritone, which doesnt really give you much change. Whereas 30 is a monster, and will allow you to keep a normal set of 10s in B standard :lol: .
 


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