Asking for input so I dont make a mistake... (Holcomb USA mod)

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soldierkahn

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Ill start off by saying first and foremost, I am not here saying that there is something wrong or low quality about the PRS hardtail bridge, or that the Tight End R is superior/better than the PRS bridge. BUT I am saying that the Tight End and Fixed LoPro are 100% more comfortable to me than the plate & saddle bridges. Year before last, i tested replacing a Gibraltar bridge with a Fixed LoPro on my RGA and just LOVED it. Then last year, I experimented with replacing a Gibraltar bridge with a Tight End R on my RGIB6 and loved how much more comfy my hand was after the mod. Although the fixed LoPro modification would be a guaranteed win in my book, it would require removing a bunch of wood and none of the luthiers that are in my area are willing to take on the project. So i wanted to see if I could try out the Tight End-R first but before i drill the holes for the screws to fasten it down I wanted to make sure i had its placement correct.

Although the bridges are different sizes, theyre both string-thru. So before I took my original bridge off, i used a marker to mark each saddles position. Once off the body, i put the saddles back in their correct positions that were marked on the plate. I then adjusted the 1st and 6th saddles on the TE-R so that the saddle groove the string sits in is exactly the same distance from the hole the string is coming out of as the saddle on the stock bridge. I did this to see if i could at least get myself close enough to being intonated that i wont need to move the saddle much. The other thing I need to adjust for is that the TE-R bridge has a 17" radius built into the base plate but the Holcomb has a 20" radius.

Ive gotten it now to the point that the light tension on the strings is holding the bridge to the body so that i can look all around and adjust the base plates ideal position and then drill the screw holes. Can anyone tell me if my logic im using is correct? It currently feels amazing under my palm but the strings arent at pitch yet (i dont wanna risk denting the top).

to everybody's eyes, do i have its placement correct? Dont mind the Luminlay plastic rod between the pickup ring and the bridge, its only there to hold the bridge back from being wedged against the pickup ring. It let me tune the strings enough to hold the plate to the body without using screws to hold it in place.

bridge-2.JPGbridge-3.JPGbridge-3.JPG
IMG_2606.JPGIMG_2605.JPG
IMG_2614.JPG
 

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Gtan7

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just gonna say you can cut the compressn springs for more travel back if you need to, or even dremel material off back of saddle but if you need more travel forward, that's looking difficult (not familiar with that bridtge)
 

M3CHK1LLA

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so whats the scale length?
that distance between the nut and saddles is what you need to maintane...
 

Crash Dandicoot

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The Tight End R is a killer hardtail. This is a sick mod and I'm here for it, Godspeed!

Your placement appears fine, though fundamentally scale length is determined by measuring between the nut and the 12th fret. Take that measurement, double it - voila! That's where your bridge *should* be, relatively speaking. It's a bit more in-depth than that, though there's tons of resources floating around you can reference for this stuff. Be sure to triple-check that your placement is true to every angle, not just the correct scale placement. Nobody wants their E strings falling off the board.
 

soldierkahn

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so whats the scale length?
that distance between the nut and saddles is what you need to maintane...

scale length is 25.5". string spacing on the Holcomb bridge is 10.2mm and the Tight End R string spacing is 10.8mm. (dont know if thats going to mean anything but included it anyways)

Since I didnt want to drill 6 new holes through the body, i used the string through holes as my common point between the two bridges. I took the Holcomb bridge, and measured how far away from the string through hole that the resting point on the saddle was and made the TE-R match it. I have plenty of room to go forward or backwards with each saddle.

bridge-8.jpg

My main thing that im asking about is.... judging from the picture it will look like the TE bridge is sitting closer to the bridge pickup than it does on other Ibanez's that have the TE on it. (Granted, i know that i have a pickup ring on the Holcomb and no Ibanezs with a TE bridge have pickup rings so of course it will look closer.....) Does it matter exactly where I mount the base, as long as there is enough room in the saddles to intonate properly? Im not using a crazy tuning either, just DROP D with 9-54s.

I did test it somewhat, only i didnt drill the screws in and let the pressure from the strings hold the bridge on the body. once I got the saddles to the right height to stop buzzing, it seemed to play really nicely. I didnt go as far as to fully intonate it, but got it pretty close.
 

soldierkahn

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The Tight End R is a killer hardtail. This is a sick mod and I'm here for it, Godspeed!

Your placement appears fine, though fundamentally scale length is determined by measuring between the nut and the 12th fret. Take that measurement, double it - voila! That's where your bridge *should* be, relatively speaking. It's a bit more in-depth than that, though there's tons of resources floating around you can reference for this stuff. Be sure to triple-check that your placement is true to every angle, not just the correct scale placement. Nobody wants their E strings falling off the board.

thank you, im surprised i didnt get much more hate than i did lol. and yes, the string issue was one i was curious about. I found out the other day that the Holcomb hardtail bridge has a string spacing of 10.2mm and the Tight End R has 10.8mm string spacing. Do you think the TE-R bride could be wide enough to make my 1st and 6th strings fret out too easily? I didnt notice a huge difference when i was testing it out (i mounted it and held it on with the string tension instead of mounting screws) but i also didnt give it an in-depth analysis.

while this isnt my first mod with bridges, it is the first time that Im trying to put Ibanez hardware on a non-Ibanez guitar. Does the PRS hardtail really suck that bad for me? Absolutely not, but the TE-R and Fixed LoPro feels better and are more familiar, so if i can put them on other axes i cherish, id like to try. I just am using much more trepidation on THIS particular project because its not like im modding a $2000 Prestige lol. This Holcomb ran me close to $5000 lol
 


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