Busted Monitor Subwoofer Phase Switch

[Metalman X]

So few years back, just before moving, I acquired an M-Audio BX10s subwoofer to go with my BX8's. Used it a few times before packing up to test out, worked/sounded great. Whilst moving though, the little phase toggle switch on the back took a hit somewhere in the chaos and now just kinda' rattles freely in it's enclosed part. So now my main monitors sound 'off' w/ the sub is bypassed or not while it's hooked into the setup. Or one way made a buzzing noise into the signal too.... I honestly forget cuz i just unhooked it at the time and tucked it in a closet to deal with later.

In the interim, occasionally looked into finding a replacement switch to solder in myself... but the amount of disassembly involved in getting the board out so i could do this cleanly, while possible, looks to be a huge project. I had looked into a repair center (bought used, so no warranty anyway), nearest place i could find that said they could do it, was both expensive, without even factoring shipping. Like, might as well just buy a replacement sub expensive. Another place found that sells parts didnt have a switch for it, but wanted to sell me a whole new guts n' chassis, again, for almost as much as paid for the sub as a whole to begin with. So, both these options are stupid, and also financially completely unfeasible on my current fixed income anyway.

Took it apart again the other day just for gits and shiggles, see if I could at least see what type of switch I'm dealing with to locate a replacement to eventually just install myself. Than, now looking at again, thinking, the way those runs bend into the back of the toggle switch I could perhaps just solve this quick n' easy by making a jumper with a pair of tiny insulated gator clips, and effectively bypass the swtich. If I need to switch phase in where i end up placing the sub, can move the jumper accordingly if needed. Since once I find it's spot, its not gonna need to be moved or switched again for a long time anyway. Set n' forget, eh?

I don't see any reasons that WON'T work... not an ideal solution, but perfectly fine. Be nice to actually finally use this sub that I bought like 7 fuckin' years ago, lol

Anybody got any thoughts, ideas on this might be missing?

 

[Turd Ferguson]

There are a couple guys on here that build pedals and modify amps so they would know better than me, for sure, but I have two thoughts:

1. Seems like you don't need to remove everything to replace the switch, if you can find one. You could just cut those three bent leads and patch the new switch in by soldering short lengths of wire. Maybe? Or if the cutting was accurate enough, just solder the new and old leads back together right there where they're bent. Can't tell from the pic if there's another reason why you'd have to remove everything, other than the leads are attached to the board.

2. Since you might not know what's going on inside the broken switch, it might be best to cut those leads, then jump them. Get the broken switch completely out of the circuit.

Is there a part number or anything printed on the switch?

I suppose you could try jumping and see what happens. I'd cut the broken switch out first though, I think.

 

[Metalman X]

There are a couple guys on here that build pedals and modify amps so they would know better than me, for sure, but I have two thoughts:

1. Seems like you don't need to remove everything to replace the switch, if you can find one. You could just cut those three bent leads and patch the new switch in by soldering short lengths of wire. Maybe? Or if the cutting was accurate enough, just solder the new and old leads back together right there where they're bent. Can't tell from the pic if there's another reason why you'd have to remove everything, other than the leads are attached to the board.

2. Since you might not know what's going on inside the broken switch, it might be best to cut those leads, then jump them. Get the broken switch completely out of the circuit.

Is there a part number or anything printed on the switch?

I suppose you could try jumping and see what happens. I'd cut the broken switch out first though, I think.

Hey hey, thanx for the input

I haven't really fucked with pedals (Yet. I do have an ancient MT-2 with a broken level pot that makes output cut in n' out if you jiggle the shaft of the pot. An easy fix if I can find the correct replacement pot), but been wiring my my guitars up since 1997, and worked as a licensed electrician for about 15 years.... so I feel confident I got this sussed out. And sounds like you came to the same conclusion I did regarding a "fix". Athough my variation on this I'm not gonna solder it, so I can still make a phase adjustment if needed by moving a jumper I'm gonna put together. Not as handy as an external switch since to make changes I still gotta unplug this thing and take the entire amp/back assembly off (14 wood screws), but still doable if needed. Not gonna move for quite awhile once I got it set up, so will ikely be years before I need to fuck with the the phase again unless I drastically rearrange my area.

Did a shitty little sketch on the back of some junk mail here to show what i plan to do...

 

[Metalman X]

Also yeah... I initially opened up again with the intention of finding a parts number... but the way it is stamped on there cant make it out unless I disassemble more stuff to get at it, and i couldnt get my camera at an angle to see it clearly either. I e-mailed M-Audio support about this a couple years ago and no one ever got back to me.

 

[Turd Ferguson]

I'd say give it a try and see what happens. Maybe there's a way you can put the jumper on the outside of the cabinet?