On the newer models they also use stainless steel on the E-II. The nebula black burst Arrow should have stainless steel frets but it looks like the older models (like the white and black Arrow) don't have stainless steel frets yet.
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I’m curious, what do you think is better about the Gotoh GE1996T? I know it has locking studs for instance, lower profile, better arm holder mechanism. Anything beyond that as far as actual function?
I found the floyd branded push in arm to be pure garbage. Red bishop Magik arm and plastic bushing mighty might arms work way better in floyds. I also saw the 2020 or 2021 upgraded threaded collar design for floyds is much better, but i have not used one myself yetInfinitely superior arm holder is the biggest one (you can get Floyd Rose and FU-Tone branded push-in arms for the 1000/OFR but the Gotoh arm also has keyless insertion and height adjustment as well as allen-key tensioning), much thicker and more coarsely knurled fine tuners (all the others feel dinky in comparison, even FU-Tone upgrade stuff)
Plus more comfortable/premium-feeling saddles, locking studs, higher tension + quieter springs (actually checked this on the Gotoh website lol, the springs that come with the 1996T are listed as their 'high tension' springs on their parts list) phillips screws for the springs into the block in the back.
Nothing worth upgrading a perfectly good 1000 series or OFR for, with a push-in arm especially all 3 feel essentially the same in practice, but a must for a custom job / major upgrade from something cheap or beaten up given (in the UK anyway) they're cheaper than 1000s now. They've not really moved in price for years owing to low demand, probably because they get so little OEM business with them.
I feel like all I'm posting is trem lore at the moment lol. My top upgrades for an FR1000 would be the push-in arm for better arm feel, and the Schaller Sure Claw, which is a huge time-saver.
I found the floyd branded push in arm to be pure garbage. Red bishop Magik arm and plastic bushing mighty might arms work way better in floyds. I also saw the 2020 or 2021 upgraded threaded collar design for floyds is much better, but i have not used one myself yet
Update, I pulled the trem again to check the posts for wear, and I can actually wiggle the bass side post back and forth and freely rotate it with no resistance. This thing has to go, no doubt about it. Extremely disappointed with LTD, I expected much better than this.
I put a push in arm on one of my floyds and it feels sloppy/loosens up and the deltin sleeve cracked on me with not very much use. Just not solid at all. The magic arm does loosen up after a bit of use occasionally but it's way better than the old stock threaded collar. The push in arm is as bad or worse than anything else in my opinion, but as with anything to each their ownWhat about the floyd-branded one don't you like? One of mine the interior bushing seems to be a tad loose now compared to a Gotoh arm but it's still but still miles beyond the stock threaded collar.
I've posted thoughts on the magik arm in another thread recently, tldr it's great in theory but too fragile for me
+1000. I mean, a fill and redrill isn't hard, but it's *new*Can't tell from the pic, but if the posts are leaning, I would without question return the guitar.
I know a lot of people that like them because the feel of the saddles is smoother under your. I'm not one of those - the regular Floyd style is fine for me - but they're equally as good as OFRs in my experience and half the price. Hard to argue with that. The lock screw alloys supposedly last longer, too, but I haven't had either of mine (a 6 and a 7) for that to be an issue yet.I’m curious, what do you think is better about the Gotoh GE1996T? I know it has locking studs for instance, lower profile, better arm holder mechanism. Anything beyond that as far as actual function?
I know a lot of people that like them because the feel of the saddles is smoother under your.
+1Aren't there Stainless frets on E-II guitars?
That's so fucked up if LTD 1000s come with Stainless and E-II don't.
LTD does compound radius only a few guitars and not every single one. That giant scoop you posted on the 87 series is the same scoop I have on two of my ESP MII's.+1
I think SOME E-IIs now come with stainless... but I'm always amazed how most LTDs have more modern specs... like
- Compound fretboard on LTDs vs straight 12" on E-II
- Most LTDs 1000 have SS frets vs lots of E-II still have nickel
- EXTRA thin U neck shape on LTDs (vs E-II thin U... and honestly it's not thin at all)
- More one-off models like the '87 with the giant front scoop for better upper fret access on the LTD (the one in the pic below)
the list goes on.
@OP: for the record, I've had 4 guitars with the original floyd rose and one with the FR-1000. There is no difference in tuning stability between the two if they are well-setup. I think you just got a lemon
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It's odd, the majority of complaints and issues I've seen lately do relate to the Black Metal series...Sorry guys, but LTD guitars have gone down a lot in quality only over the last few months.
The Black Metal and Arctic series were really good guitars in their first iterations. However current manufactured ones appear to be more miss than hit.
Also, a 1000 series floyd is not comparable to an OFR. Don't let anyone try to tell you otherwise.
We truly are in the age of if you want a decent guitar, you're looking at near on £2000. Anything lower than that and you're buying shite.
It's odd, the majority of complaints and issues I've seen lately do relate to the Black Metal series...
I wouldn't say anything under $2k is shit, though, unless someone doesn't know how to do some intermediate stuff to a guitar. My personal expectation - sadly - is that anything under around $1600 (depending on brand) is going to need fret work/nut work and a full setup on delivery if it's ordered. Which is a shame, but doable with a little know-how.
I've also seen folks get Strandbergs and Jacksons over $2k and had issues with QC. It's such a darts in the dark world we live in these days. So much of it is luck anymore a lot of the time, which sucks. Case in point, I recently picked up a Squier Paranormal Baritone Tele that had better fretwork than my $1400 Ibanez Axxion Label. So, yeah. Strange days.
It's a lot of the reason I won't even pay 2k for a guitar anymore. If there's a 50/50 chance I'm gonna have to do the same fret and nut work anyway, why would I pay $1,800 for it when I could pay a grand?