My DIY 8-string

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JimboTheHobo

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Made a start on the fretboard and rough cut the body wings this morning

fretboardslots.jpg

Dude i love the F/B

Good luck! :hbang:
 

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canuck brian

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Problem is if I slant the pickup the polepieces wont be under the strings as the spacing's not wide enough.

I'm a bit confused with what to do for the trussrod. I've already bought one which is an aluminium square shaped channel with an open side with a steel rod running inside.

:wavey:

K - the polepiece thing I already addressed in post #5, but for your trussrod, I know which one you've got there. You want to cut a rectangular channel. Don't worry about a fillet.

I cut my truss channel, drop the rod in so the squared off side sits flush with the neck and flush against the fretboard. I use epoxy in the channel to keep the bugger in place.

Did you keep the offcuts from the body wings? Makes things a lot easier when you glue the wings to the neck blank.
 

Chonker

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yup kept the offcuts as clamping cauls as Melyvn instructed :D

Despite your good advise (and I do appreciate it) I've not laminated the neck, I simply couldn't figure out a way of doing it with the tools I have so I'm pretty much going to just hope for the best (and expect the worst).

I'm going to leave the pickup route until I've strung it up and set it up, then I'll mount my BKP warpig upside down over the strings in a few positions and see if it sounds okay. If it does, brilliant, if not I'll be buying some alnico rods from ebay and making my own.

Thanks for the info on the trussrod, that's what I'll do then.

Bit more progress (nothing stuck just put together to make it vaguely guitar shaped)

07_headangle.jpg
 

canuck brian

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Looking like nice clean work there man. Just take your time and plan it out and it'll turn out awesome.
 

Ruins

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Okay didn't get a reply on project guitar so I'll try my luck here :D

I'm a bit confused with what to do for the trussrod. I've already bought one which is an aluminium square shaped channel with an open side with a steel rod running inside.

I've read through Melyn Hiscock's book, which doesn't directly deal with these rods, but does suggest that they should be glue into a flat bottomed channel cut into the neck face beneith the fretboard, and that they don't require a fillet.

I've also read Dennis Waring & David Raymond's book and it suggests a similar rod which isn't filleted but they do not mention gluing at all.

I have also read this Project Guitar :: Making a Guitar Neck and the rod used looks alot like what I have, but he makes a curved channel and covers with a fillet.

This has left me really confused, I really don't want the hassle of cutting a curved channel or making a fillet so, do I need a different type of rod? Also (and this is really a stupid question I guess) it fits with the open side of the channel down?
in mz current project i just made square tunnel and fit the rod in it sits tiggt there no waz to escape anywhere and i didn't use any glue to glue it
but i think some glue excess did get there when i was gluing the fretboard
i think its nothing worse it will still function well.

looking good so far :yesway:
 

skinhead

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I preffer to glue the wings before cutting them. Is only my prefference, and the way I like to do it.

Nice project, its going very well :metal:
 

Chonker

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Got a bunch more done, picked up a die to sort the trussrod out too turns out it isn't imperial it's metric but with an odd .8 thread pitch :rolleyes:

Trussrod channel routed, head profile finished and roughly cut out, tuning post holes drilled.
09_trussrodchannel.jpg


Rough carved neck (loads of carving still to do though)
08_neckcarve.jpg
 

Chonker

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Guess that was a size missing from my set then, definately didn't have a threadguage for it. Sorted the trussrod now, cut down to size and ready to glue in
 

Chonker

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Trussrod installed, neck carve done too it's really coming together!

Can't wait to play this thing! :shred:

15_trussrod.jpg


17_neckcarve.jpg
 

Zoltta

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i question the tension on that thing since its a reverse headstock
 

loneguitarist

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i question the tension on that thing since its a reverse headstock

That's a common misconception actually - only the vibrating length of the string affects the tension, not any distance either side of the nut or bridge.
 

Zoltta

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true but are there even strings out there that are long enough? Or i assume he will obviously use a bass string for the 8th?
 

Durero

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i question the tension on that thing since its a reverse headstock
There's a pretty thorough discussion of this issue in this thread if anyone's interested: http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/extended-range-guitars/10364-reverse-headstock-misconception.html

true but are there even strings out there that are long enough? Or i assume he will obviously use a bass string for the 8th?

I play a 32" - 36" multi-scale 7-string and most strings are just long enough to fit my headless design. The 8th string with 28" scale and reverse headstock should have no problem I'd guess, but probably worth checking before finishing the build :idea:
 

Chonker

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Actually I was really worried about string lenght, it's going to be stringthrough body so that requires a bit more. That's the reason I went with the reverse headstock in the first place as I'm really not a fan of the look, but it means the longest strings are the thickest.

Bottom two will be bass strings :)
 

jammy

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That's a common misconception actually - only the vibrating length of the string affects the tension, not any distance either side of the nut or bridge.

Not quite true that. Though the truth is actually the reverse of what most people think.

Overall string length, though it doesn't have an effect on the tension will have an effect on the feel of the instrument. Strings with longer lengths (even if the vibrating length is the same) feel looser, and are easier to bend on. This is because when you fret the string, or bend it your stretching a longer length overall. This means each unit length of the string is stretched less, thus it's easier to do! (if that makes sense)

This is why you'll notice guitars with tailpieces and floating bridges generally feel looser - loads of extra string on the other side of the bridge!
 
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