1mm
But seriously, it's not a significant difference. String spacing is determined by the nut, but generally speaking spacing is very slightly tighter on 42mm vs. 43mm on one end.
New Fender necks
- Thread starter DimMak
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
1mm
But seriously, it's not a significant difference. String spacing is determined by the nut, but generally speaking spacing is very slightly tighter on 42mm vs. 43mm on one end.
This site may earn a commission from merchant links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
Musiscience
Well-Known Member
That makes sense, blank necks can look dull.Gonna go out on a limb ad say the logo - call me closed-minded, but I'd consider one for the same reasons.
I'd want a multi-radius, jumbo fret, modern profile 22 fret roasted neck though and I haven't seen one, so that helps. I also need another project Strat like a hole in my head.
If you like laser cut metal logos, they can be easily applied over the finish though. I might do that with my current Strat project as I sanded through the water decal by accident (facepalm).
Drew
Forum MVP
I don't have pictures handy, but Warmoth DID used to sell pretty pimp looking stick-on metal logos, that I used on a partscaster project once.
EDIT - never mind, they still do. Shitty computer generated picture, but it looked REALLY nice when installed on a Strat headstock neck.
Here is the build thread, body came today.
www.sevenstring.org
Strat partscaster build
Got an itch to build one. Recieved the Fender neck last night, still trying to decide if I should send it back and order a Warmoth with a darker fretboard, thicker profile. It seems nice though. Mjt Taos Turquoise Blue body came today. Got a deal on ebay, little heavier relicing than I would've...
www.sevenstring.org
nightsprinter
resident pat metheny fanatic
Basically. Huge pain in the ass. Headstock adjust is a must for me when I order necks from Warmoth and others.
Some ppl will unscrew the neck bolts like 3/4 of the way with the strings detuned to remove relative tension and yank the neck up and slide an adjuster wrench in, but one time I tried that on a heel adjust and managed to strip a chunk of wood off one of the neck holes by the top layer, so I just remove the whole damn thing to adjust it on the one POS heel adjust neck I still have and hate.
I see Warmoth has a "Modern" truss rod option, with a fine adjust on the lower side of the heel. Do you have any experience with those? It seems you still need to use the main heel truss rod adjustment and then use the side fine tuner?
nightsprinter
resident pat metheny fanatic
Yes, I have one of those. I do not care for it and think it's strives to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Vintage/Modern is what I get which is the hex head adjust.
Eh, "vintage" style truss rod adjustment isn't that bad. For the one or two times a year it's needed it adds maybe 15 minutes to the process vs. spoke wheel or headstock adjust.
As for the Warmoth "Modern" setup, you only have to access the primary adjustment point when you're making significant changes to setup, the secondary adjustment usually covers seasonal movement.
As for the Warmoth "Modern" setup, you only have to access the primary adjustment point when you're making significant changes to setup, the secondary adjustment usually covers seasonal movement.
nightsprinter
resident pat metheny fanatic
I agree with Max above for 99.9% of people. For me, I'm the .1% and the reason I basically need the vintage/modern is because I live in a house that is well over a century old and cannot really close rooms off to climate control them because my cats own me and want to rule over every square inch AND the 125 year old heating/cooling scheme sucks so the doors need to be open so that certain rooms don't get freezing or screaming hot. I have gas heat in winter which can dry the place out to sub- 10% RH and have to run a big humidifier that barely keeps it around 38% on a lucky day. In summer, I only have 1 air conditioner which is can only do so much and my dehumidifier does fuck-all. So my necks move like they're watching a Suzanne Somers VHS and I have to adjust them monthly if I don't have them hidden in hard cases with bovedas in the back of the closet. So the ones I keep out, I essentially need headstock adjust because major adjustments are needed regularly. My case is unique but I'm sure I'm not the only one out there living in tenement quality.
it didnt really make sense to me. You still have to remove the neck to do coarse adjustments?
nightsprinter
resident pat metheny fanatic
Yeah, but like max said above, minor seasonal adjustments will be fine to do with the gotoh side adjust. You can definitely get a few thousandths of an inch either way out of it.
CrushingAnvil
Ironically enough, now in Jesus Land
I owned a Professional II strat and the neck was great. Only thing I couldn't abide was the 9.5" fingerboard radius.
Yea I am torn on that. I have a Squier 40th anniversary with a 9.5, to me that is what I imagine when I think strat neck but I am struggling to get it dialed in action wise that last 10% or so. Not sure if its radius related or what.
For me the 12" on the Fender neck I am returning didn't feel right, maybe because it has a 43mm nut which makes the fretboard feel too wide for me. I have 10-16" compound necks on my Jacksons and that feels good for a Jackson but I don't want a Strat to play like I Jackson. I am used to expecting the Thin C with a more narrow vintage nut/fretboard.
synrgy
Ya ya ya I am Lorde
When I left the States a few years ago (long story..) I bought myself an American Showcase Stratocaster. It features their new-ish compound "C to D" neck shape.
It was the weirdest whim: I'd always hated Fenders all through my life; never actually played one I liked. But this one, was like the magical Wayne's World moment. I loved the aesthetic (matching HS!), and when I picked it up and played it, it was like it had been waiting for me; like, I legit heard an angelic choir, as a beam of heavenly light centered on my person. It's since become my primary instrument, by a country mile, to the point where I'm looking to sell most of my previous guitars and replace them with more Strats.
At the end of the day, what I learned was that our preconceptions surrounding brands are mostly horseshit. One guy's PRS could be amazing, while the next guy's could be a total lemon. Shit happens.
Quality-wise, I think you should be fine. The only typical issues one may encounter, are easily addressed. Mine, specifically, was perfect right out of the box. If you see the right deal on the specs you want, I'd say go for it.
It was the weirdest whim: I'd always hated Fenders all through my life; never actually played one I liked. But this one, was like the magical Wayne's World moment. I loved the aesthetic (matching HS!), and when I picked it up and played it, it was like it had been waiting for me; like, I legit heard an angelic choir, as a beam of heavenly light centered on my person. It's since become my primary instrument, by a country mile, to the point where I'm looking to sell most of my previous guitars and replace them with more Strats.
At the end of the day, what I learned was that our preconceptions surrounding brands are mostly horseshit. One guy's PRS could be amazing, while the next guy's could be a total lemon. Shit happens.
Quality-wise, I think you should be fine. The only typical issues one may encounter, are easily addressed. Mine, specifically, was perfect right out of the box. If you see the right deal on the specs you want, I'd say go for it.
adrianb
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2018
- Messages
- 183
- Reaction score
- 117
I also don't agree with their Modern construction having a heel adjustment nut as the main adjuster coupled with a side adjust mechanism. I think i read somewhere that the side adjust can be fragile and over-tightening in either direction can fuck it up permanently. When i spec'ed my Warmoth i already knew in advance that i wanted a tiltback headstock. It turned out that the tiltback is Modern construction but with a headstock adjust, so i was really stoked about that. So yea, Modern tiltback might work out for you.
TonyFlyingSquirrel
Cherokee Warrior
Got mine with 6100’s and a Tusq nut, all roasted maple, compound radius, Gibson 24.75” scale. Was playable right out of the box except for dropping the nut slots down to preference a touch. Gigged it the next week. After that, I dressed the fret ends, did a very light level, crowned it with a Z file, polish, dress, set up, and it plays flawless. We’ve had some fluctuating weather in the Pacific Northwest as of late, and the neck hasn’t budged at all. As a Warmoth customer of 40+ years and an ex employee about 15 years ago, I’ll always pick a Warmoth neck over a stock Fender.
Attachments
nightsprinter
resident pat metheny fanatic
Nice neck, but I'm more curious to hear the backstory on that body!
TonyFlyingSquirrel
Cherokee Warrior
Version 2.0
Build, Re-Build, the Buckskin Telecaster reborn.
So, as I had my Baritone neck up for sale and sold recently, I replaced it with another Warmoth neck, a Gibson scale conversion Tele in Roasted Mable, with the same 6100 Fretwire that I had on the Baritone, and with a Tusq xl nut. She arrived this afternoon after a quick hot dogging of the fret...
unofficialwarmoth.com
Version 1.0
Baritone Telecaster Project.
This thread is dedicated to recording the inspiration and process of my Baritone Telecaster project. While inspired by the Thinline Telecaster that first appeared in the 1999 Fender Custom Shop Calendar, this project actually began as the first component (The neck) was supplied as a gift from my...
unofficialwarmoth.com
CrushingAnvil
Ironically enough, now in Jesus Land
This is why I'd sooner get a Suhr with a compound radius than a production Fender. 10-16" radius is ideal imo.
