NGD - The first Indonesian guitar I've received that doesn't need a lot of help.

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nightsprinter

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Against my better judgment having vowed to only buy upper echelon guitars because I'm tired of finishing the job on all the lower-cost stuff I've had a propensity for buying over the years, I done did it again and rolled the dice. Thanks to the retailer I used who lets me get whatever I want on 0% payment plans, I tend to roll the dice a lot, knowing that if and when I receive something that sucks dramatically, I don't have $1000+ tied up in purgatory until I get a refund. This way, I'll only be out $80-$150 bucks while I wait on that refund. I typically know within 10 minutes of unboxing whether it's a keeper or needs a ride back to the warehouse.

I have had very poor experiences with "Crafted In Indonesia" instruments. I don't have any bias against anyone involved in the operation aside from the companies that I hear seem to routinely budget the Indonesian factories 'X amount' of time per guitar that typically result in rough unfinished work on some level that the consumer then has to either live with or remediate themselves or through the extra cost of hauling it down to a luthier. Up until today, every single new guitar I've purchased (except a Genesis from Rich @ Ibanez Rules w/ silver package) has needed a fret level and recrown/polish to achieve a string action of 5/64" (or my preferred lower 4/64" bass side for 6 string guitars) with no buzz. And that's been on a good day. Some of you may have seen me absolutely besmirch the character of LTD proudly because of a hilariously badly made MH-1007 ET I had with a blown-out evertune route and problems all over the place that could not be corrected unless you were to pull the frets and resurface the board etc etc - Well, I'm happy to say that I've had a pretty decent stroke of luck and that the blind squirrel has found a nut.

I present to you the LTD EX-7 Baritone with a late 2023 build date out of Indonesia.

20240524_095854.jpg

I'm using an old phone for photos and the lighting blows ass in my shop, so it is what it is.

Anyway, things began really badly because I opened the box and saw this:

20240524_094312.jpg

Fucker traveled from Reno, NV upside down with no extra packaging or padding in the inner crevices between boxes. Just chilling right on its pointy headstock. Whoever slapped the shipping label on the box did so upside down and applied no THIS SIDE UP markings or anything. So homie couldn't even do the simplest of tasks well. Appreciate that....

I thought FOR SURE that headstock was gonna be toast. Somehow, someway, there isn't a scratch, pressure crack, ding, dent, mash, nothing. A true miracle, especially considering I've received 2 Jackson's in the past year with blown out headstock points, but I've complained about that elsewhere too so I won't go on about that here.

20240524_094437.jpg


My only complaint on the north end here ^ is that there is some pale discoloration at the edge of the fingerboard where it meets the nut shelf. But again, I've seen this on so many examples that pass through my house that I expect it at this point. What causes that? I'll let someone more in the know fill me in.... dull blade? lack of dye absorption? lack of moisture? who knows. But that doesn't concern me.

20240524_094423.jpg

20240524_094428.jpg

As you can also see on the treble side of the board, there's a bit of pale grain. I have not conditioned the board yet so that may blend in a little bit over time. But again, this is par for the course with these cheaper instruments in my experience and I've come to accept it because I'm not walking this thing down the runway- I'm just recording tracks.

20240524_100015.jpg

A few tooling marks here and there, maybe a bit of glue residue. Not bad though. String alignment on the set neck between bridge and nut is good. I'm a stickler and usually want it completely even, but in this case it appears the high E has just a titch more real estate and that's my preference when it isn't perfectly even. It could just be an illusion due to the string gauging. I have a sloppy technique and can use as much playing space as I can get on the high E because I have tendency to let it slip off the board sometimes doing big stretches on arpeggios.

20240524_094412.jpg
20240524_094517.jpg
20240524_094446.jpg

Stock TOM/tailpiece height depicted above ^

20240524_094745.jpg

Simple electronics with a Korean pot ^ Not sure what the deal with that little hole is in the body. I have an idea but I'm not gonna speculate so if you know, lmk.

Post continues below, hang tight. Reached the max photos.
 
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nightsprinter

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20240524_094738.jpeg

Soldering - I've seen better, I've seen worse.

20240524_095156.jpg

.024 clearance low B w/ no capo

20240524_095355.jpg

.010 clearance no capo treble

Don't hold me to those exact micromeasurements as I was doing these fast before I had to split for work.

123.jpeg

dammit i meant to go 3rd fret on that capo but was in a rush so i'm not sure how helpful this one's gonna be for folks. use your imagination ^

When I got the guitar, the neck had like .015 relief. Nearly banana'd compared to what I like. The truss rod cavity was clean and I adjusted it down to about .005 relief measured at the 7th/8th fret with a capo on fret 1 and fret depressed by hand up by where the set neck meets the body.

Upon adjusting the rod, this is what the factory string height/bridge settings are:

20240524_095546.jpg
20240524_095603.jpg

That's just about perfect action for me when it comes to a 7 w/ a TOM and my playing style.

How does it feel and balance? Well, I'll be honest. It's very lightweight in the body. It definitely has a touch of neck dive but I use a good leather strap and rarely play standing up these days as an at-home recording guy. It might even be lighter than my alder Charvel Pro Mod DK24.

It plays great as-is and the SS frets do not need leveling.
I may lower the nut slots on the lower strings a bit.

Overall, I feel like I found a good one and it plays buzz free and all the frets ring out. It's got a LOT of resonance. probably the most resonant/loud guitar I have alongside my single pup partscaster I assembled.
 

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Oh and the neck on this - the satin finish is good, not great. No real specks or burrs but I think I can smooth it out a bit. I didn't take measurements yet (will do so during string change) but it's a chonky guy compared to just about everything else I own. For shredding I like the 17mm wizard or ultra thin c schecter type thing, but for long duration rhythm playing, I've found that my carpal tunnel doesn't act up as bad with a big thick neck so I think this is what I've been looking for on that front. Def not as thick as a boatneck warmoth, but it's no super wizard hp. It fills the hand comfortably like some jazz box necks do.
 

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I actually think I will speculate about the mystery hole in the electronics cavity. My hypothesis is that it's a bridge ground pilot hole. Given that from my understanding, EMG's done need bridge grounds, perhaps they automatically drill the hole before the body is earmarked for a specific set of pickups. That would be an awfully convenient Easter egg for someone who wants to do a passive swap.
 

Musiscience

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Oh and the neck on this - the satin finish is good, not great. No real specks or burrs but I think I can smooth it out a bit. I didn't take measurements yet (will do so during string change) but it's a chonky guy compared to just about everything else I own. For shredding I like the 17mm wizard or ultra thin c schecter type thing, but for long duration rhythm playing, I've found that my carpal tunnel doesn't act up as bad with a big thick neck so I think this is what I've been looking for on that front. Def not as thick as a boatneck warmoth, but it's no super wizard hp. It fills the hand comfortably like some jazz box necks do.
Happy NGD, glad you found a good one. The black metal series seems like a killer deal for the specs.

Also agree on the “thin U” shape. I’ve had a baritone E-II Horizon and remember thinking “who the hell called this thin?” when first playing it. You do get used to it, but it takes a bit of time.
 

Rubbishplayer

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Against my better judgment having vowed to only buy upper echelon guitars because I'm tired of finishing the job on all the lower-cost stuff I've had a propensity for buying over the years, I done did it again and rolled the dice. Thanks to the retailer I used who lets me get whatever I want on 0% payment plans, I tend to roll the dice a lot, knowing that if and when I receive something that sucks dramatically, I don't have $1000+ tied up in purgatory until I get a refund. This way, I'll only be out $80-$150 bucks while I wait on that refund. I typically know within 10 minutes of unboxing whether it's a keeper or needs a ride back to the warehouse.

I have had very poor experiences with "Crafted In Indonesia" instruments. I don't have any bias against anyone involved in the operation aside from the companies that I hear seem to routinely budget the Indonesian factories 'X amount' of time per guitar that typically result in rough unfinished work on some level that the consumer then has to either live with or remediate themselves or through the extra cost of hauling it down to a luthier. Up until today, every single new guitar I've purchased (except a Genesis from Rich @ Ibanez Rules w/ silver package) has needed a fret level and recrown/polish to achieve a string action of 5/64" (or my preferred lower 4/64" bass side for 6 string guitars) with no buzz. And that's been on a good day. Some of you may have seen me absolutely besmirch the character of LTD proudly because of a hilariously badly made MH-1007 ET I had with a blown-out evertune route and problems all over the place that could not be corrected unless you were to pull the frets and resurface the board etc etc - Well, I'm happy to say that I've had a pretty decent stroke of luck and that the blind squirrel has found a nut.

I present to you the LTD EX-7 Baritone with a late 2023 build date out of Indonesia.

View attachment 143990

I'm using an old phone for photos and the lighting blows ass in my shop, so it is what it is.

Anyway, things began really badly because I opened the box and saw this:

View attachment 143991

Fucker traveled from Reno, NV upside down with no extra packaging or padding in the inner crevices between boxes. Just chilling right on its pointy headstock. Whoever slapped the shipping label on the box did so upside down and applied no THIS SIDE UP markings or anything. So homie couldn't even do the simplest of tasks well. Appreciate that....

I thought FOR SURE that headstock was gonna be toast. Somehow, someway, there isn't a scratch, pressure crack, ding, dent, mash, nothing. A true miracle, especially considering I've received 2 Jackson's in the past year with blown out headstock points, but I've complained about that elsewhere too so I won't go on about that here.

View attachment 143992


My only complaint on the north end here ^ is that there is some pale discoloration at the edge of the fingerboard where it meets the nut shelf. But again, I've seen this on so many examples that pass through my house that I expect it at this point. What causes that? I'll let someone more in the know fill me in.... dull blade? lack of dye absorption? lack of moisture? who knows. But that doesn't concern me.

View attachment 143993

View attachment 143994

As you can also see on the treble side of the board, there's a bit of pale grain. I have not conditioned the board yet so that may blend in a little bit over time. But again, this is par for the course with these cheaper instruments in my experience and I've come to accept it because I'm not walking this thing down the runway- I'm just recording tracks.

View attachment 143995

A few tooling marks here and there, maybe a bit of glue residue. Not bad though. String alignment on the set neck between bridge and nut is good. I'm a stickler and usually want it completely even, but in this case it appears the high E has just a titch more real estate and that's my preference when it isn't perfectly even. It could just be an illusion due to the string gauging. I have a sloppy technique and can use as much playing space as I can get on the high E because I have tendency to let it slip off the board sometimes doing big stretches on arpeggios.

View attachment 143996
View attachment 143997
View attachment 143998

Stock TOM/tailpiece height depicted above ^

View attachment 143999

Simple electronics with a Korean pot ^ Not sure what the deal with that little hole is in the body. I have an idea but I'm not gonna speculate so if you know, lmk.

Post continues below, hang tight. Reached the max photos.
Indonesian-made Ibbys are, on the whole, great. I picked-up an RG220 in Cali back in 2004, and while it lacked some refinement from the shop (one-piece neck with scarf joint; ordinary ceramic humbuckers; solid paint; simple dot inlays) it is great in all the ways that matter (perfect profile neck; excellent fretwork that had zero high spots and no rough edges; a basswood body e ery bit as good as a JEM; an excellent Edge trem that still shows few signs of wear; perfectly functioning tuners).

As such, it has proven a worthy recipient of new Seymour Duncan pups and switchgear, but frankly needs nothing else: its action is perfect, as is its sound. Having fine-tuned this over years, I've yet to try a guitar that matches it for playability. Indeed my son, who has premium guitars, could not believe that the base guitar only cost $200. I certainly wouldn't let it go for any price.

While I have heard varying opinions on quality, this guitar is evidence that Indonesian guitars can be every bit as good as so-called "premium" guitars, in the fundamentals.
 

nightsprinter

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Indonesian-made Ibbys are, on the whole, great. I picked-up an RG220 in Cali back in 2004, and while it lacked some refinement from the shop (one-piece neck with scarf joint; ordinary ceramic humbuckers; solid paint; simple dot inlays) it is great in all the ways that matter (perfect profile neck; excellent fretwork that had zero high spots and no rough edges; a basswood body e ery bit as good as a JEM; an excellent Edge trem that still shows few signs of wear; perfectly functioning tuners).

As such, it has proven a worthy recipient of new Seymour Duncan pups and switchgear, but frankly needs nothing else: its action is perfect, as is its sound. Having fine-tuned this over years, I've yet to try a guitar that matches it for playability. Indeed my son, who has premium guitars, could not believe that the base guitar only cost $200. I certainly wouldn't let it go for any price.

While I have heard varying opinions on quality, this guitar is evidence that Indonesian guitars can be every bit as good as so-called "premium" guitars, in the fundamentals.

Bingo. Like I mentioned, though I've had about maybe 6 or 7 cor-tek Indonesia guitars that were horrible in some way or another- usually in the fretwork department, I got to seeing how lots of other people seem to have gotten good examples with no issues and I just kept getting unlucky. Most of the ones i had before were "highly spec'd"- evertune bridge, dual fishman fluence, crazy switching options, whatever - stuff where the base components cost like 70% of the total cost of the guitar if you were to just buy the parts. So my methodology here was to find something that would be outfitted in such a way that it would resemble something simple in practice that I'd put together at home- single pickup, single knob, fixed bridge. Whoever put this one together rules.
 

Rubbishplayer

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Bingo. Like I mentioned, though I've had about maybe 6 or 7 cor-tek Indonesia guitars that were horrible in some way or another- usually in the fretwork department, I got to seeing how lots of other people seem to have gotten good examples with no issues and I just kept getting unlucky. Most of the ones i had before were "highly spec'd"- evertune bridge, dual fishman fluence, crazy switching options, whatever - stuff where the base components cost like 70% of the total cost of the guitar if you were to just buy the parts. So my methodology here was to find something that would be outfitted in such a way that it would resemble something simple in practice that I'd put together at home- single pickup, single knob, fixed bridge. Whoever put this one together rules.
I think it's down to quality control, and Ibanez appear to have been consistent on that: I recently tried a new Indonesian 7-string Ibanez and it, too, was great in the fundamentals.

I can't say that about any of the cheaper ESPs or Schecters I've tried.
 
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Shask

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I have found that since I learned to fret level, I love the cheaper guitars. It is nice to take a super cheap guitar and get it playing like it cost way more.

I had wrist issues in the past also, and 20mm thick, round C, 42mm nut width seems to be my happy place. Because of that I had to give up Ibanez many years ago.
 

nightsprinter

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I think it's down to quality control, and Ibanez appear to have been consistent on that: I recently tried a new 7-string Ibanez and it, too, was great in the fundamentals.

I can't say that about any of the cheaper ESPs or Schecters I've tried.

It's funny because I've had the opposite experience with Ibanez indonesian stuff. I've almost never bought one that didn't need a fret level badly- their basses are the WORST for me for that. I did have a newer rg470 pass through recently that had decent fret work so again, I just have bad luck I guess.

All the cheaper LTDs I've gotten were ass too, but the newest one I got is literally perfect. Luck of the draw.

Schecter indonesian basses I've had have been terrible for high frets. Their Korean counterparts have been pretty good overall.

Seems like such a case to case basis that it's hard for me to have a hard stance on anything.
 

nightsprinter

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I have found that since I learned to fret level, I love the cheaper guitars. It is nice to take a super cheap guitar and get it playing like it cost way more.

I had wrist issues in the past also, and 20mm thick, round C, 42mm nut width seems to be my happy place. Because of that I had to give up Ibanez many years ago.

The first 10 or so fret levels were fun for me. Now I loathe the thought. My hand and wrist are in bad shape for days after a full crown and polish, especially with ss frets. And I use the good diamond file stuff from stewmac...
 

Shask

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The first 10 or so fret levels were fun for me. Now I loathe the thought. My hand and wrist are in bad shape for days after a full crown and polish, especially with ss frets. And I use the good diamond file stuff from stewmac...
When I first did it I did 6-7 guitars within a week or 2 and got really burned out on it, and had some soreness. However, by that time I had done all my guitars, lol. I have only done 1 or 2 since that initial batch because I dont buy guitars very often. I dont mind doing it if it is only one, every once in awhile.
 

nightsprinter

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When I first did it I did 6-7 guitars within a week or 2 and got really burned out on it, and had some soreness. However, by that time I had done all my guitars, lol. I have only done 1 or 2 since that initial batch because I dont buy guitars very often. I dont mind doing it if it is only one, every once in awhile.

Yeah here and there it's fun. And it's a lot more fun when it's on a low risk instrument and not some rare or expensive specimen.
 
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