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If I were super wealthy I’d buy that ‘Mercia model just because it’s so over the top. Like one of those old Rick Nielsen guitars.
I went and listened and he also says it would "cost them $25k to rebuild it". He also said wenge necks smell bad (I have a nick Johnston schecter -- it doesn't smell at all). at some point it's important to realize that half of what comes out of JK's mouth is just nonsense.He said he didn't really, the guys just asked what it might take, he said $25K, and then they would pit it up for a week. He said he had offers around $20k, but even at $25k wasn't even sure if he'd feel good about selling it because of the sentimental value, at least in part because it signifies the first guitar build from woods that were completely sourced/milled and completed all in their new (current) factory.
To be clear, someone didn't buy it.
"cost them to rebuild" was just odd wording for "this is how much we would charge to rebuild it".I went and listened and he also says it would "cost them $25k to rebuild it". He also said wenge necks smell bad (I have a nick Johnston schecter -- it doesn't smell at all). at some point it's important to realize that half of what comes out of JK's mouth is just nonsense.
I just got a V3 head for $600. It sounded great at the store I got it from thru a CB 2x12 w/V30s. I'm visiting family right now so all I brought with me is a 10" 20W GA10-SC64.I had a V3 head for a bit, and based off your opinions on those other amps, I don't think it's going to solve your problems. At least not without some wrangling and outboard gear.
I just got a V3 head for $600. It sounded great at the store I got it from thru a CB 2x12 w/V30s. I'm visiting family right now so all I brought with me is a 10" 20W GA10-SC64.
I've spent the past 2 years fighting with a Marshall DSL20CR, Peavey Invective MH and ValveKing II 20 combo, and Revv G20. With a 10 band parametric EQ in the loop, overdrive pedals, sonic maximizer, and I could never get them to sound right. No matter what I did with EQ, they always had muddy bass and low-mids, quacky high-mids, and all but the G20 had so much fizz.
The V3 thru this 10" speaker with no overdrive and no external EQ sounds so much better than I could ever get any of the 20W amps to sound. I can't wait to get it home and put it thru my 2x12 w/Jensen Tornado Stealth 80s.
The clean tone is amazing, very bright and detailed without being harsh. The DSL20CR clean tone was nice (after lowering the gain with an ECC832), but the ultra gain channel was muddy fizz. The Peavey and Revv cleans are muddy and tubby, even with the treble maxed out.
And the Chug pedal I brought with me sounds great into the V3 clean channel. You can get so many different sounds out of it: with 3 voicings per channel and the EQX switch, there are really 6 different voicings per channel. Individual presence on each channel and bright, deep, and mid cut on the power amp section. The mid cut is exactly what all my other amps were missing.
It's very tight, clear and defined, with minimal fizz. More low-mids that aren't muddy or boxy. Turning up the bass gets a little heavy in the low-mids, but it probably has a lot to do with this 10" speaker and I'm thinking 6L6GC in place of the current EL34 power tubes will get it even closer to what I need.
And I have the 10 band parametric EQ, sonic maximizer, and Precision Drive at home, so I know I'll be able to dial this in to sound way better than any of those 20W amps.
If his argument were that it smells bad when processing and he doesn't want to work with it for that reason then sure, I don't know enough about wood working to disagree so maybe it's not BS. I know there are some woods that have toxic particles when being cut, and that's a completely logical reason not to use them.Eh, plenty of hardwoods smell bad when processing, some are even sensitizers, allergens, or even inherently toxic.
So it's probably one of the few objectively not bullshit things Jeff has said, but still seems silly as an excuse not to offer.
If you ever care to verify someone's claims about wood, the wood database is awesome: https://www.wood-database.com/wenge/If his argument were that it smells bad when processing and he doesn't want to work with it for that reason then sure, I don't know enough about wood working to disagree so maybe it's not BS. I know there are some woods that have toxic particles when being cut, and that's a completely logical reason not to use them.
This is like a doctor pushing circumcision because he doesn't trust you to wash your own dick lol. Seems like you could just clean it after playing, but I don't have experience with wenge so idk.But he said the porous nature of the wood collects so much rotting dead skin cells that it stinks after you play it, which from personal experience playing a wenge neck I can tell you is BS. The only people talking about this 'issue" are people wondering if what Jeff is saying is true (it's nonsense).
If his argument were that it smells bad when processing and he doesn't want to work with it for that reason then sure, I don't know enough about wood working to disagree so maybe it's not BS. I know there are some woods that have toxic particles when being cut, and that's a completely logical reason not to use them.
But he said the porous nature of the wood collects so much rotting dead skin cells that it stinks after you play it, which from personal experience playing a wenge neck I can tell you is BS. The only people talking about this 'issue" are people wondering if what Jeff is saying is true (it's nonsense).
can you find anyone else attesting to Wenge smelling bad? I do not do anything special to clean my Wenge neck and it smells fine before playing, after playing, etc. The only other person I can find even discussing asking about this is someone who clearly heard Jeff spouting this nonsense a few months ago:
Basically every Kiesel is made-to-order from a menu of woods and finishes, so you likely won't find matching examples of most builds.Hello all, I have the possibility to trade an old ESP Horizon for a Kiesel Aries 8, anyone has experience with the model, some extra info would be appreciated. Can't seem to find a lot of videos with a similar one. This is the guitar, the inlay is actually a sticker View attachment 137688
Fom playing, my nick johnston with a wenge neck has 0 neck dive and it's quite balanced. maybe it's a function of the s type body, but the body wood is alder and according to this database that comes in lighter than every non-alder wood kiesel uses. I'm sure schecter has better engineers than kiesel does, but I have to imagine with elbow grease they could keep up.Well, it's clear my anecdotal experience is in the vast minority, even if it aligned with the claims.
The other point he mentioned was the weight...and my one same data point instrument, that Warwick, I've never side-by-sided with one made from different woods, so I couldn't say how much of it's anchor-like weight was just from the wenge...but it was heaaaavy. Looking at the Wood Database, wenge is about 40% heavier than black walnut, and 48% heavier than honduran mahogany.
Since Kiesel seems to take balance so seriously (to the point of limiting some models to only the smaller headstocks, adding counterweights to others, and redesigning models with longer or more offset horns), it seems like a valid critique, at least on the surface.
why is that?if you tried to torrify wenge would it just cook off like phosphorus