The Les Paul thread

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budda

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I think that's $12k USD ish?

Clearly had a refin but they don't say that lol

 

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NexusMT

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Bildschirmfoto 2024-04-20 um 14.27.17.png

Since when Grampa Jerry Cantrell is playing with Les Paul Standards ? It looks like a R9 reissue. Does anyone have more information ?
 

budda

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goldtop is R4 (wraptail p90) R6 (p90) or R7 (humbucker) unless its a special order fwiw.
 

NoodleFace

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If I replace my tuners on my 75 LPC with locking tuners, is Mr. Gibson gonna come to my house And shoot me??

On that topic, what brands are drop in replacements? They have to be gold..

Also sorry for the gore. Was replacing the nut and my tool scraped the fretboard. Luthier only charging me $50 to refinish two frets.
 

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budda

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Are the staple custom reissues not R4's? I can never keep the gibson stuff straight
They are yep. I think at one point they did an R2 as well.

R4 R6 R7 R8 R9 R0 54ri lpc 57ri lpc 68ri lpc 74ri lpc (limited run afaik).
 

ktulhu

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Hello everybody, I'm planning on buying a custom by the end of the year. Still don't know if I should go for an Edwards, an Orville or the real deal. The main reasons being cost obv and quality. I mean, how do the Japanese compare to the Gibson? Can you actually "feel" you're playing something made better? Also I'm worried about consistency talking about Gibsons, for what I've heard, you never know what hides in the cavities etc. maybe someone who owns both could help. Thank you
 

crushingpetal

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Hello everybody, I'm planning on buying a custom by the end of the year. Still don't know if I should go for an Edwards, an Orville or the real deal. The main reasons being cost obv and quality. I mean, how do the Japanese compare to the Gibson? Can you actually "feel" you're playing something made better? Also I'm worried about consistency talking about Gibsons, for what I've heard, you never know what hides in the cavities etc. maybe someone who owns both could help. Thank you
My 2 cents: you just gotta' try a few and see what you like. It's even worth a trip to a bigger city with a few stores. No amount of internet blathering can answer your question.
 

budda

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Hello everybody, I'm planning on buying a custom by the end of the year. Still don't know if I should go for an Edwards, an Orville or the real deal. The main reasons being cost obv and quality. I mean, how do the Japanese compare to the Gibson? Can you actually "feel" you're playing something made better? Also I'm worried about consistency talking about Gibsons, for what I've heard, you never know what hides in the cavities etc. maybe someone who owns both could help. Thank you
Do you want a double bound singlecut with block inlays or do you want a gibson les paul custom? Start there.
 

Estilo

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Hello everybody, I'm planning on buying a custom by the end of the year. Still don't know if I should go for an Edwards, an Orville or the real deal. The main reasons being cost obv and quality. I mean, how do the Japanese compare to the Gibson? Can you actually "feel" you're playing something made better? Also I'm worried about consistency talking about Gibsons, for what I've heard, you never know what hides in the cavities etc. maybe someone who owns both could help. Thank you
Try before you buy and if you can, take the time to observe the finer details like edge finishing, blunted binding on the back, even cosmetics like binding and fret dots lining up. If anything, guitars are a novelty so I appreciate the attention to detail. And yes you can feel the differences in quality when playing. I own a Gibson AJ Standard and an Edwards John Sykes LPC copy. Used to own a Gibby LP Tribute, Edwards ELPS and a Burny RLC-85.

The cavities part, just flip a few pages back I uploaded the switch cavity of my AJ. Not happy with that but I (now) like my AJ enough.

Do consider though, for what Gibson offers, many specs aren't offered by the MIJ copies. Gibsons typically have 1-2 pc backs (even if chambered), solid tops non-veneers and nitro finish. The Japs also have a knack for offering rosewood boards on their LPC copies, like how they tend to build strats with basswood bodies. You can get Tokais with those specs but at USD 2k I'd rather a used Standard or Trad.

The 'Gibson worst QC ever' meme is so overdone it's not funny. If anything FMIC suffers from the same shit and blatant price gouging but it's not cool to bash on FMIC I guess.
 

cardinal

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Got all my refretted LPs safely back in one place thank goodness but not exactly all in one piece. Need to sort out the pickup situation.

IMG-0194.jpg
 

cardinal

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@cardinal how do you find Navigators compared to Gibson's build quality? I've only had Edwards and wonder how Navigators would feel.
Short answer is both are very nice. Newer Navigators are flawless; and I've been consistently impressed with fretwork on Gibson Custom guitars.

Older Navigators are built more like a Gibson (more crude neck tenon and fret end binding etc) and IME have larger necks and are quite heavier. These newer ones are lighter, more modest neck thickness, and the tenon and fret ends are perfection: the tenon perfectly fills the mortise and the fret end binding perfectly follows the fret crown.

These have all been refretted, but older Navs use to have Sanko #213 frets which are 1mm high (quite low to me). Now they use Jescar 47104, so like a PRS. Gibson has used 45100 for a while but recently switched it up, which is something to consider.

I prefer the Navigator finish. In person, they practically glow. Gibson finishes are pretty meh. I think that could be intentional (to look old), but I personally don't like it.
 

budda

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Gibson CS is usually “VOS” finish though most if not all get ordered as gloss by various dealers at various times.
 
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