Thoughts please... Ibanez RGD71ALMS-BAM

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MaxOfMetal

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I've played a few of the Axion models and..."meh". Unless you absolutely have to have it, I'd pass. :2c:
 

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Acaciastrain360

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imo worst possible parallel fret.

if you want an 8 check out the cort kx508
I like the specs of the Cort but I’m just not too into the finish and the headstock from pictures. But I think in the flesh it would be a beautiful guitar... I’m torn, it’s so hard to choose a new axe
 

Velokki

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If you're going for looks, get it. If you're going for playability and feel, look elsewhere. I tried that particular guitar (or a very close sister model of the same series), it felt rubbish on the frets. Maybe a filing + polish would've fixed it somewhat... but I just wouldn't bet on it.
 

Acaciastrain360

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Sweet okay man, yeah I mean it looks sick, but originally I wanted a legator and I think that’s what I’m going to buy... buy now I can’t decide between an 8 and a 7 string Jesus why can’t life be simple!!
 

Noisy Humbucker

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I’ve had one for a while now, and I kind of like having the 12th be the parallel fret. I could have very well gotten lucky but I very much like the neck and don’t have any real issues with the fit and finish. I will say that the color does nothing for me, but thankfully it’s a lot more subtle in person.

Once I decided I wanted a multi-scale I really didn’t want the bridge angle to be overly pronounced, and since I have fairly long fingers I haven’t had any problems fretting at/over the nut.

I’ve already done a fair bit of modifying:
-New nut (took me a bit to figure out just how I wanted it, and my luthier a few tries starting with a blank Graphtech slab)
-Graphtech saddles (totally unnecessary however I like how they pull the high-mids down a bit on the Fluence pickups without neutering them)
-Black Fluence Modern Alnico/Ceramic set (guitar comes stock with two Ceramics)
-Swapped toggle with a low-profile standard 3-way
-Added a tone knob and rewired everything

If I had the money I’d be tempted to refinish it but I’m quite happy with it otherwise.

EDIT: AAALLLLL of that said - if you want an 8 get an 8! If Ibby makes an 8-string version of this same guitar (in a more desirable finish) in the near future I just might have to buy-in!
 
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RobDobble6S7

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I tried this in person at a GC once, it was ok. The fluence pups are quite good, however the general feel of the guitar was quite unfavorable.
 

mcbiggah99

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Make sure you can send the Legator back if you have to. There have been horror stories about their QC in here before, and I'm not sure if they've improved since then.
 

Crazy_Guitar

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Hello everybody!
I'm on the hunt for a good 7str multiscale 25.5" - 27". I came across a good deal with a RGD71ALMS.

I have several 25.5" 7s and a 25.5" - 27" 8str. So, none is new for me. However, my 8str has "perpendicular fret" around the 7th or 8th fret. And I read something about this RGD not being that playable. I have played before with a 27" 7str RG for a while, and I didn't quite come across any difficulty.

Could anyone please elaborate on this? Thank you so much.
 

diagrammatiks

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Hello everybody!
I'm on the hunt for a good 7str multiscale 25.5" - 27". I came across a good deal with a RGD71ALMS.

I have several 25.5" 7s and a 25.5" - 27" 8str. So, none is new for me. However, my 8str has "perpendicular fret" around the 7th or 8th fret. And I read something about this RGD not being that playable. I have played before with a 27" 7str RG for a while, and I didn't quite come across any difficulty.

Could anyone please elaborate on this? Thank you so much.

a 27 inch straight scale guitar is much more comfortable then a 25-27 with the parallel fret in the dumbest possible place.
 
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Hello everybody!
I'm on the hunt for a good 7str multiscale 25.5" - 27". I came across a good deal with a RGD71ALMS.

I have several 25.5" 7s and a 25.5" - 27" 8str. So, none is new for me. However, my 8str has "perpendicular fret" around the 7th or 8th fret. And I read something about this RGD not being that playable. I have played before with a 27" 7str RG for a while, and I didn't quite come across any difficulty.

Could anyone please elaborate on this? Thank you so much.

Boas, tudo bem? é só para dizer olá, vamos continuar em Ingrês para não chatear o pessoal.

I don't have much experience with multiscale guitars, either 7s or 8s. I've tested one, once, a few years ago. I was a 7 stringer Ibanez with the scale specs as this one, but a different model, different pickups, woods, finish... and RGD nevertheless. At that day I tested it against another RGD with parallel frets (single scale guitar). As far as tone, I prefered the single scale guitar due to it having passive pickups and somehow that kind of clouds my personal feelings. I felt no problem adjusting to the multiscale model (first time ever, so...). The most awkward situation was looking down at the fretboard and missing frets due to... err, you know, they're moving...

I'd say that it is a matter of habit. A thing to notice is the 1st position bar chords (1st fret bars). If the 1st fret at the 7th string doesn't passes over perpendicular of the nut at the 1st string, I think you're ok with bar chords at first fretting space. Then there's the soloing parte of the multiscale. The higher the parallel fret, the easier it gets, I guess, to reach the lower strings at high frets. Remember that Rusty Cooley's Ormsby has the parallel fret at the bridge (Floyd Rose)... just to put things into perspective...

The reason to have the parallel fret at the 8th or 9th fret is because that is the middle of the fretboard and as so, last fret's angle will be more or less the same as the nut's, so the fan will be "evenly" distrbuted along the fretboard, but will have a more accentuated angle at the bridge and that should be a point to think about also as far as ergonomics go, it could mean that if one is picking at the lower strings near the saddles and just goes down, one may end up picking on the higher strings' saddles instead of the strings.. The 12th fret is obviously the middle of the scale length and will distribute the fan along the entire guitar scale, from the bridge to the nut, which will both have the same angle. It will make the lower frets with a bit more aggressive angle, but it won't be that much more and as long as the 1st fretting space is still clear for perpendicular bars on bar chords.

All in all, I guess (again, my expertise here is next to null) it all goes down to each one's preferences and experience, although one must remember that the implications of one versus the other don't resume only to the fretboard and nut angle, the bridge's angle is just as important.
 
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Crazy_Guitar

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a 27 inch straight scale guitar is much more comfortable then a 25-27 with the parallel fret in the dumbest possible place.
Thanks.
I can't quite catch that train of thought, but ok... although I have tons of experience with 7s, I have next to none in multiscale.

Boas, tudo bem? é só para dizer olá, vamos continuar em Ingrês para não chatear o pessoal.

I don't have much experience with multiscale guitars, either 7s or 8s. I've tested one, once, a few years ago. I was a 7 stringer Ibanez with the scale specs as this one, but a different model, different pickups, woods, finish... and RGD nevertheless. At that day I tested it against another RGD with parallel frets (single scale guitar). As far as tone, I prefered the single scale guitar due to it having passive pickups and somehow that kind of clouds my personal feelings. I felt no problem adjusting to the multiscale model (first time ever, so...). The most awkward situation was looking down at the fretboard and missing frets due to... err, you know, they're moving...

I'd say that it is a matter of habit. A thing to notice is the 1st position bar chords (1st fret bars). If the 1st fret at the 7th string doesn't passes over perpendicular of the nut at the 1st string, I think you're ok with bar chords at first fretting space. Then there's the soloing parte of the multiscale. The higher the parallel fret, the easier it gets, I guess, to reach the lower strings at high frets. Remember that Rusty Cooley's Ormsby has the parallel fret at the bridge (Floyd Rose)... just to put things into perspective...

The reason to have the parallel fret at the 8th or 9th fret is because that is the middle of the fretboard and as so, last fret's angle will be more or less the same as the nut's, so the fan will be "evenly" distrbuted along the fretboard, but will have a more accentuated angle at the bridge and that should be a point to think about also as far as ergonomics go, it could mean that if one is picking at the lower strings near the saddles and just goes down, one may end up picking on the higher strings' saddles instead of the strings.. The 12th fret is obviously the middle of the scale length and will distribute the fan along the entire guitar scale, from the bridge to the nut, which will both have the same angle. It will make the lower frets with a bit more aggressive angle, but it won't be that much more and as long as the 1st fretting space is still clear for perpendicular bars on bar chords.

All in all, I guess (again, my expertise here is next to null) it all goes down to each one's preferences and experience, although one must remember that the implications of one versus the other don't resume only to the fretboard and nut angle, the bridge's angle is just as important.
Então? Também por cá? :D

Thanks for the input. And what about the Modern Fluence in Ceramic?
 
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Thanks.
I can't quite catch that train of thought, but ok... although I have tons of experience with 7s, I have next to none in multiscale.


Então? Também por cá? :D

Thanks for the input. And what about the Modern Fluence in Ceramic?

I can't speak for the Fluences, never tried those. The multiscale had EMGs if I remember correctly.

... and I bet you're fixed on the one for sale at the OLX platform, which ain't that far from you and reasonably priced I think... :D
 
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diagrammatiks

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Thanks.
I can't quite catch that train of thought, but ok... although I have tons of experience with 7s, I have next to none in multiscale.


Então? Também por cá? :D

Thanks for the input. And what about the Modern Fluence in Ceramic?

multi scales are a compromise between the high end of the fretboard and the low end of the fretboard.
at 25.5-7 putting the parallel at the 12th splays the low end of the fretboard way out to a position your hand isn't supposed to be and ends up barely fanning the higher end of the fretboard where you're hands wants to be curved.

don't buy this guitar. no one should buy it and they should stop making it.

buy the new Cort 7 string multi scale instead. Cort fixed the parallel.
 
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