What exactly do you expect for $1500?

nightsprinter

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Another peer poll thread. Sorry.

I'm curious about this though. Let's say you have $1500 to buy a new factory made guitar or bass and what you want isn't local and you're in some type of hell where used prestige does not exist. Understanding the risks associated with buying something you can't lay your hands on ahead of time, you buy from an online retailer that has a great return policy.

For $1500, you aren't buying an ESP Standard, so what level of quality control do you personally expect, and what are you willing to overlook?

I'm a pain in the ass with QC expectations and I'm trying to be more forgiving. I don't get out the magnifying glass or hunt for finish-related issues, but I seem to find that most things $2000 and under haven't met my expectations. My expectations are typically that the instrument can be setup to manufacturer spec and play cleanly without significant modification or remediation.

Example of the day: I received a $1500 import bass guitar. I set the neck relief and adjusted the string height to 6/64" bass side tapering down to 4.5ish/64" treble side. Noticed a lot of buzz in several areas during the demo so I checked the frets and found that frets 2, 5, 8, 9, 10, 14, 16, 18, and 22 all have rock in various spots- some the entire fret, and others just with high spots spanning a couple strings. These readings correspond with the areas of buzz. The only other little things are basically cosmetic- half a sawdust plug missing from a fret slot end, and 2 small but perceptible dings in the bass side of the neck near the side inlays. I don't care about those last 2 items, but the fret situation kinda irks me. If you get a new guitar or bass in that requires a full leveling to play with comfortable action, are you cool with that, or do you send it back? I understand wood moves and whatnot during transit and storage and these things happen to some degree.

What do you typically expect and accept that you must do on a new factory-built instrument for $1500?
 

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ArtDecade

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For 1500, I expect a guitar that I can work on to make perfect. The electronics should be solid and with pickups typically better than house brand. Some of the frets might need a level here and there, but it shouldn't need all of them attended to. For me, 1500 is a little work and a good setup away from being great.
 

Ordacleaphobia

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An instrument that shouldn't need anything more than a quick setup to be a great player.

Like this here:
Example of the day: I received a $1500 import bass guitar. I set the neck relief and adjusted the string height to 6/64" bass side tapering down to 4.5ish/64" treble side. Noticed a lot of buzz in several areas during the demo so I checked the frets and found that frets 2, 5, 8, 9, 10, 14, 16, 18, and 22 all have rock in various spots- some the entire fret, and others just with high spots spanning a couple strings. These readings correspond with the areas of buzz. The only other little things are basically cosmetic- half a sawdust plug missing from a fret slot end, and 2 small but perceptible dings in the bass side of the neck near the side inlays.
...would not fly. If I can't dial out buzz without working on the frets for a brand new 4 figure instrument it's going back 100%. Not worth my time. The plug and the dings would irk me but as long as they weren't obstructive defects I'd probably let them go if I otherwise liked the guitar enough. I've handwaved away a lot more cosmetic defects than I should have because the guitar was otherwise sick and I didn't want the hassle of an exchange / risk getting one that didn't play as nice. But actual tactile issues, at that price point, not acceptable.
 

Dekay82

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I look at buying guitars the same as cars- I generally avoid buying brand new unless it really sticks out.

That being said, for $1,500 used your money can go so much farther than brand new. Look at how much the new LTDs cost or even an Epi LP.

$1,500 used you can find a good deal and pick your poison. A Gibson SG, Maybe an LP at a deal, PRS CE-24, an EII, Caparison C2, almost any Fender you can think of. All either American made or Japanese guitars.

But to specifically answer your question, $1,500 nowadays for something brand new I would expect about as much as I would 5 years ago for $899. Maybe some industry guys have a better take, but this is my experience as someone who has bought over a dozen guitars in the past 6 years and is currently awaiting delivery on #27 (got a great deal on an Epi Thunderhorse, finally)
 

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The only thing I expect at any price point is good QC. I can put a 600$ top with a 400$ burst finish on a Gio and get damn near that price, but if it's all goofed up because it was done by a fucking dumbass then I won't pay a dime for it. The whole notion of paying more for something attempted well instead of done well is a fucking mind virus, if they can't do it correctly they shouldn't bother at all. I don't need petrified alligator cock knobs and adamantium tuners on a guitar cut like firewood and glued like it's a fucking macaroni art project, I don't care how much the materials cost at that point. It's only worth it when done correctly, at any price.
 

slim231990

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An instrument that shouldn't need anything more than a quick setup to be a great player.

Like this here:

...would not fly. If I can't dial out buzz without working on the frets for a brand new 4 figure instrument it's going back 100%. Not worth my time. The plug and the dings would irk me but as long as they weren't obstructive defects I'd probably let them go if I otherwise liked the guitar enough. I've handwaved away a lot more cosmetic defects than I should have because the guitar was otherwise sick and I didn't want the hassle of an exchange / risk getting one that didn't play as nice. But actual tactile issues, at that price point, not acceptable.

Was gonna type a response, but this is basically it. :2c:
 

nightsprinter

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Great feedback so far. Today's specimen in question:

20240705_121316.jpg

Nice looking unit, an exact fretted match to my fretless of the same model. It just pains me deeply to have to get out the leveling beam and files to do $150 worth of my time's work on something brand new.
 

nightsprinter

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The only thing I expect at any price point is good QC. I can put a 600$ top with a 400$ burst finish on a Gio and get damn near that price, but if it's all goofed up because it was done by a fucking dumbass then I won't pay a dime for it. The whole notion of paying more for something attempted well instead of done well is a fucking mind virus, if they can't do it correctly they shouldn't bother at all. I don't need petrified alligator cock knobs and adamantium tuners on a guitar cut like firewood and glued like it's a fucking macaroni art project, I don't care how much the materials cost at that point. It's only worth it when done correctly, at any price.

Yeah... peeve of mine is when a company takes an entry level guitar of entry level quality, chucks a ton of expensive hardware on it, and charges a premium price with no attention to detail.
 

vark

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1500 bucks it should play flawlessly after a regular setup, at that price point im ok with cosmetic imperfections, veneers cheaper wood etc but it should be fully functional as an instrument
Another peer poll thread. Sorry.

I'm curious about this though. Let's say you have $1500 to buy a new factory made guitar or bass and what you want isn't local and you're in some type of hell where used prestige does not exist. Understanding the risks associated with buying something you can't lay your hands on ahead of time, you buy from an online retailer that has a great return policy.

For $1500, you aren't buying an ESP Standard, so what level of quality control do you personally expect, and what are you willing to overlook?

I'm a pain in the ass with QC expectations and I'm trying to be more forgiving. I don't get out the magnifying glass or hunt for finish-related issues, but I seem to find that most things $2000 and under haven't met my expectations. My expectations are typically that the instrument can be setup to manufacturer spec and play cleanly without significant modification or remediation.

Example of the day: I received a $1500 import bass guitar. I set the neck relief and adjusted the string height to 6/64" bass side tapering down to 4.5ish/64" treble side. Noticed a lot of buzz in several areas during the demo so I checked the frets and found that frets 2, 5, 8, 9, 10, 14, 16, 18, and 22 all have rock in various spots- some the entire fret, and others just with high spots spanning a couple strings. These readings correspond with the areas of buzz. The only other little things are basically cosmetic- half a sawdust plug missing from a fret slot end, and 2 small but perceptible dings in the bass side of the neck near the side inlays. I don't care about those last 2 items, but the fret situation kinda irks me. If you get a new guitar or bass in that requires a full leveling to play with comfortable action, are you cool with that, or do you send it back? I understand wood moves and whatnot during transit and storage and these things happen to some degree.

What do you typically expect and accept that you must do on a new factory-built instrument for $1500?
 

MaxOfMetal

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It's going to be different for everyone. Some folks can barely tune or restring their guitars, so unless they have "a guy" and said guy is affordable they're gonna have a rough go of things if the guitar isn't what they think is perfect.

But if you know how to work on guitars, have the tools, and are comfortable with it, you can get some real turds and it's not a big deal.
 

AwakenTheSkies

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But to specifically answer your question, $1,500 nowadays for something brand new I would expect about as much as I would 5 years ago for $899.
Jeeesus 🤮

----

Actually once I feel I know what I'm doing with the leveling beam and the crowning I'm hoping to get a 150€ Squier and see how far can I take it with a fret level, new nut, new pickup, new hardware like bridge and tuners if it needs that...
 

MaxOfMetal

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I think there's also some nuance and context around certain amount of value assigned to specific instruments.

Like a $1500 Strat copy, Archtop, and headless 9-string are quite different and could be better or worse deals depending on how well serviced a niche they sit in.

It wasn't too long ago where if you wanted a specific type or configuration of guitar your options were so limited that really you just worked with what you could get your hands on.
 

nightsprinter

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Jeeesus 🤮

----

Actually once I feel I know what I'm doing with the leveling beam and the crowning I'm hoping to get a 150€ Squier and see how far can I take it with a fret level, new nut, new pickup, new hardware like bridge and tuners if it needs that...

Ah yes, the ship of theseus paradox :lol:
 

Crungy

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Nice looking unit, an exact fretted match to my fretless of the same model. It just pains me deeply to have to get out the leveling beam and files to do $150 worth of my time's work on something brand new.
Congrats on the new MTD! I hear ya on that kind of stuff though.

Back around 2008 I picked up a brand new Lakland Skyline 44-60 for around $1200 that was mostly perfect except around winter time. The fret sprout was awful. I know this happens but I've had similarly priced instruments as well as very cheap ones that did not have fret sprout this bad. I eventually took care of it myself but it still bugged me that I spent that kind of money back then and it needed work.

I don't think I've purchased a new instrument since then, unless I had something and returned or flipped it right away.

This.

Unfortunately, $1,500 isn’t what it was even a couple of years ago.

Absolutely. I got lucky at the beginning and during the pandemic... I got some screaming deals on my Dingwalls(1600 or less used) that I doubt I'll ever see again.
 

nightsprinter

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I requested a return label for the instrument of the day mentioned here but I may keep it and just do the level, I am not sure yet. I'm so tired of playing musical chairs with instruments and looking for the diamond in the rough when all I ever seem to get is stuff that needs work, so I'm thinking I may as well just swallow my pride, do the work, shut up, and actually play my instruments instead of hunting for something that will be just right. I'm doubting the guys on a lot of my favorite records were like "well, pack it up boys. I ain't playing this studio session til I get my PREFERRED STRING ACTION". It was probably more like the engineer saying "put that fancy ass spector down and just use this 20 pound T-40 we have in-house. Yeah it's got James Jamerson/Erik Rutan action height, but it sounds good".
 
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