Couple Questions on Purchasing a 7 String

[ayru]

I've been considering getting a seven string for a couple years and finally want to make that a reality.

I'm mostly looking at the Schecter Omen Elites at present (willing to hear other suggestions) and am curious as to the benefits of multiscale versus a 26.5". I've read that the multiscale provides better string tension overall but have also read that unless you're looking to do really low tunings a 26.5" would be adequate.

Also, when it comes to tunings are most people just dropping the low B? I've done drop D and such on my 6 strings but usually keep them tuned down a half step to Eb . . . is it appropriate to down tune all the strings or would that create issues with string tension, tone, and playability? Sorry if it's a rudimentary question but just trying to better understand the tuning options.

Thanks in advance.

 

[PuckishGuitar]

Multiscale as I understand it just helps with the intonation across the strings by giving you effectively different scale lengths and subsequent tensions on each string and makes it feel more uniform. Unless you roll your own set of strings most manufacturers still don’t give anything close to balanced tension sets for 7s, and this is where multiscales can step in to help. Someone else can go into detail more on multiscale, I’m usually just tuned a whole step down on my 26.5” Schecter and don’t find many intonation issues that vibrato can’t handle, and string tension is fine for me. I think most people can adapt to playing a multi scale so don’t let that stop you either.

There are two ways to view the tuning when starting out, either as a normal 6 with an extra low string (BEADGBE), or as a 6 with an extra high string by dropping the high G down a half step (BEADF#BE). So that’s two ways to play with tunings. And if doom players regularly play in B on a Les Paul, you shouldn’t have any issues getting to G# or F with the longer scale and the correct strings. Other common tunings are to drop tune just the low E and B strings, or drop the low B down to E to play octaves with the E (def get a different string for that, possibly recut the nut). Doing something like the latter may lend itself towards multiscale too. Those are some options at least to get started on playing a 7 and understanding how it all fits together with your style.

 

[Edika]

With a multiscale the benefit is that the higher strings do not get super bright and are easier to play, especially if you're tuning in B. I have a couple of 27" 7 strings and the increased scale makes them brighter sounding. I have them in A tuning and Drop G tuning so the higher strings are in D and still sound quite bright. I don't mind but a lot of players don't like that.
Plus there's the added tension on the high strings which can throw you off at the start. The cool thing is that you can use thinner strings for lower tuning, that add to brightness, without intonation issues. In the past I tried thicker strings at the suggestion of several 7 strings players but did not like the sound I was getting. So I'm all for the "thinnest things you can get away with" camp.

 

[Crungy]

@ayru Do you think you will tune lower than drop A or A standard?

 

[ayru]

@Crungy I'm unsure but drop A / A standard is probably as far as I'd go . . . basing that on on my normal guitar if I do below drop D the tension is too flubby for me to like it. I've really been into Bell Witch lately (I know it's a bassist doing the heavy lifting there) but I just love the lower, fuzzy growl he gets.

 

[Crungy]

Depending on your preferences, a regular 25.5" 7 string might do it for you. I would try some guitars like that if you can, in addition to the Schecter.

Personally, I don't think you'd need anything longer than that, but we all have our preferences!

 

[tedtan]

25.5” is fine down to at least A (either A standard or drop A), and may be OK below that with the right strings, too.

Longer scale lengths, like 26.5” for example, allow you to get more tension and better intonation (especially on the lower strings) on the strings while using lighter strings at the expense (or possible benefit) of being brighter sounding.

A multi scale/fan fret tries to split the difference giving you a “normal” playing experience on the higher strings and letting you use lighter strings for better tension and intonation on the lower strings. But in this case, you’ll have to adjust to the fanned frets, which may or may not make a difference for you.

Basically, determine what tuning(s) you’ll use and then go play some different guitars in your price range to see what works best for you.

 

[NickK-UK]

Multiscale as I understand it just helps with the intonation across the strings by giving you effectively different scale lengths and subsequent tensions on each string and makes it feel more uniform.

The main reason for multi-scale is, as you increase scale length, the tension of the strings increases. This changes tone/timber on picking and ease of which strings can be barred and bent. The increased tension needs thicker strings (or at least strong strings) which also changes the sound. With more strings at a higher tension, the more neck support is needed in the design too.


It's important as others have said - play and listen to a number of guitars. Barring and spanning chords, speed and muscle memory will all feel odd. Especially with fanned frets.

I built myself a 28.625" single scale. Initially it felt massive, taught strings, and I even had issues with muscle memory both between strings and along the neck. It's using 64-11 strings, and with around 90Kg of tension on the neck its strings took a while to build strength for barred chords. It's also designed to not have a neck that sticks out miles.
I've gotten used to it. It's my preferred guitar (with all of its DIY built faults) and it has it's own sound - drop tuning on 64 gauge gets to F# before it needs a bunk up in string gauge. Octave E or D is possible at a push (the amp has issues at this point and things need to be adjusted to raise strings action).
With B-to-drop-A with the current strings, its low end sound is taught, not flabby.

If you look at a guitar fretboard (approximately):
25.5" = strat scale
27" = strat +1 fret after the nut
28.625" = 27" +1 fret after the nut, or +2 after the strat nut

If you're going drop tunings then 27" is probably going to be more flexible, and you can optionally use multi-scale if you want. You'd probably not get much out of a small 1/2" scale difference to a strat.

 

[nightsprinter]

If you like the omen elite 7's, they can be found for $399 used. With a smaller price of admission like that, it makes my model of "buy, try, goodbye" easier to deal with if it isn't your bag. Don't sleep on the classic Schecter Demon 7 either. One of the best "let me see if I like 7 string guitars" guitar.

 

[Ordacleaphobia]

Barring and spanning chords, speed and muscle memory will all feel odd. Especially with fanned frets.

While this is true- don't worry about it too much. This will really only likely be a notable hurdle for you if you're making a large jump in scale length or picking up a massive fan with a questionable parallel fret placement.

Three main benefits to multiscale in my opinion; all of which have been touched on already. You get:
• Increased tension on the low end, less tension on the high end; giving you more flexibility on string selection, [imo] a better sound, and the more manageable string gauges lead to easier setups.
• These guitars usually have an extended scale for the low end beyond a standard 25.5" again improving string selection and feel if you want to down tune, which you probably do (or will).
• Even with the extended scale, the direction of the fan will naturally make fretting easier since the frets themselves will follow the natural shapes your hand wants to make as you move up and down the neck.

Also, when it comes to tunings are most people just dropping the low B? I've done drop D and such on my 6 strings but usually keep them tuned down a half step to Eb . . . is it appropriate to down tune all the strings or would that create issues with string tension, tone, and playability?

Most of what I see on 7s in the wild are people mostly just dropping the low B down to an A, yeah. But you'll see a lot of people do a lot of different stuff. For instance on a 6 I could chuck a guitar into Drop C and be pretty confident that there's gunna be a huge ocean of people writing stuff in that tuning I can learn. You'll find there's a lot more variance with folks writing on 7s.
To answer your second question, absolutely; that's paired with the first one, people do all kinds of silly stuff with these. Any issue that tuning up / down creates for you in regard to tension, tone, and playability can be corrected for with other adjustments. Something that threw me off when I was just getting started was seeing people talk about how you need these ridiculous string gauges and scale lengths to tune down to X or whatever, but in reality when I actually tried it, it was perfectly serviceable; just maybe not ideal. Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good.

I'd recommend a multiscale if you're considering it; budget permitting. Once I tried it I wanted it on every guitar I own, and it was a much easier transition than when I jumped from a standard 25.5" scale to a straight scale 27" when I bought my first 8 string in terms of fret spacing.

 

[NickK-UK]

Yup my point is - it will feel odd irrespective, so keep with it and give it 6 months.