Decking strat trem.

[mongey]

Hey all

I bigger am American pro 2 a while ago. Really happy with it. I

I’m not a big trem user , this is actually my first trem. I’d like to deck it , so I can do some dive bomb stuff if I want , but probably won’t. Don’t have much use to go up.

Read online about decking it , and as usual there is a bunch of conflicting stuff.

It has the 3 factory springs and I’m stringing it with 9s for standard and 9.5’a for e flat depending on what I’m playing.

Is it as simple as just adjusting the claw screws in the back untill it sits against the body ? Do I need to tighten the 2 screws on top ?

 

[MaxOfMetal]

All you need to do is lower the trem posts, and up the tension around back.

But, I think it's better to set everything up how you like it and put a piece of wood, metal, plastic, whatever, between the trem block and front of it's cavity around back (spring side).

Maxing out the trem claw is fine, but cutting something to block the trem just seems better long term, putting less stress on the system.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

All you need to do is lower the trem posts, and up the tension around back.

But, I think it's better to set everything up how you like it and put a piece of wood, metal, plastic, whatever, between the trem block and front of it's cavity around back (spring side).

Maxing out the trem claw is fine, but cutting something to block the trem just seems better long term, putting less stress on the system.

I don't think that's necesarry. The bridge plate will sit flush against the body, which is a great support.

My strat just has five springs in it to deck the bridge. This works better than three tightened down IME. (Can't usually get enough forcs from three).

 

[dmlinger]

I've done it the same as Max described but with a Wilkinson trem. It's similar to the American trems Fender uses in that they have 2 studs vs the vintage 6 screws.

Main reasons I block it vs "decking" are 1) I was afraid of the bridge damaging the top if it was pulled to the deck, and 2) I wasn't sure if I had enough saddle height adjustment to lower the studs down with the trem set flush to the body top.

When I was in high school, I didn't give a rip about either of those concerns and just tightened the claws and rocked out. So there's also that. I guess the moral is you're OK either way.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

I don't think that's necesarry. The bridge plate will sit flush against the body, which is a great support.

My strat just has five springs in it to deck the bridge. This works better than three tightened down IME. (Can't usually get enough forcs from three).

Necessary? Nah. But I think it's a more professional job. Again, I just don't like the idea of throwing that much tension at the system when you don't have to.

I've done it all ways, and the "half block" way is just so quick, cheap, easy, and good looking it's hard to go any other way.

It doesn't help that I've had to extract so many rounded out claw screws from botched "just add more tension" jobs.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

Necessary? Nah. But I think it's a more professional job. Again, I just don't like the idea of throwing that much tension at the system when you don't have to.

I've done it all ways, and the "half block" way is just so quick, cheap, easy, and good looking it's hard to go any other way.

It doesn't help that I've had to extract so many rounded out claw screws from botched "just add more tension" jobs.

Isn't the same amount of tension required either way? You're still pulling the bridge down to the same spot against the same string tension.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Isn't the same amount of tension required either way? You're still pulling the bridge down to the same spot against the same string tension.

There's a difference between applying just enough tension as to not tilt forward vs. pulling the bridge tight to top of the guitar.

With a block you can use two or three springs because it's resting against whatever is between the block and route. If you go the "pull down" method you have to increase tension, by either using more springs, heavier springs, screwing the claw all the way in, or a combination.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

There's a difference between applying just enough tension as to not tilt forward vs. pulling the bridge tight to top of the guitar.

With a block you can use two or three springs because it's resting against whatever is between the block and route. If you go the "pull down" method you have to increase tension, by either using more springs, heavier springs, screwing the claw all the way in, or a combination.

You should be able to pull it down JUST until it rests on the body surface too. The spring tension should be the same since it's balancing exactly the same string tension.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

My strat just has five springs in it to deck the bridge. This works better than three tightened down IME. (Can't usually get enough forcs from three).

You should be able to pull it down JUST until it rests on the body surface too. The spring tension should be the same since it's balancing exactly the same string tension.

 

[tedtan]

I have a Stat decked like LiveOverDrive mentioned and it works fine to keep the basic term stable, but it’s not as stable as if it were fully blocked off. But I like having the option to do some subtle tremolo or dive here and there, so this way works for me. If you want it more like a hard tail, block it the term block in the term cavity.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

I have it cranked WAY down because I just want it to be a hardtail.

 

[mongey]

Thanks all.

I’ll have a play with it. I might try a bit more tension. I’m happy with the tone and sustain as is. I just don’t like the bridge moving when I bend.

If I can stabilize it a bit so it doesn’t move on a whole step bend , but still gives me
The option to use the bar if I want both ways. I’ll be happy.