Dingwall 2024

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MaxOfMetal

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Dingwall owners: what is the comfort level like playing sitting down? Eyeballing both a D-Roc 5 and an NG3. Leaning more toward the D-Roc for now, knowing that if I love it so much that I just NEED to get a 2 octave 6-string, I can always get an NG later. Sticker shock isn't as bad on the D-Roc since I can get one under 2k which is the # that my sensible side is telling me not to exceed.

I have both. The "A" body, like the NGs, feels pretty much like any other contemporary bass. The Birds, while I love mine, are larger and hang much differently and take some getting used to.

But the best deal in Dingwall are basic spec'd ABZs. Get one of those before the CAD gets better, as you'll be paying <$1k more for a Canadian custom shop bass.

The Korean and Chinese Dingwalls are good, but the Canadian stuff is great.
 

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nightsprinter

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I'll be personally burned at the stake if I spend more than about $1900 on a bass right now. But I'll still consider the abz a bit. I wonder how long the build time is.
 

Crungy

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It's interesting as it seems people who like dingwalls often have more than one. Meanwhile I'm sweating @ the price tag of a single unit. But the d-roc 5 is still calling my name for some reason. Loved the look of it the moment I saw it.
I ended up with multiple because I kept coming across deals I couldn't refuse. Two of them were right as the pandemic started and I had an oh shit moment because things were shutting down. Fortunately, I work in an industry that was necessary in relation to medical devices and worked all the way through the pandemic.

As much as I'd like a Canadian wenge necked model of some variety, I'm more than happy with the ones I have. They all have their own sound and vibe and I have them set for certain tunings... I like writing and playing standard all the down to drop E so I pun intended have my bases with basses covered.

Another factor for me: I don't sweat dings/scrapes/etc as much as I would on a $4-5k instrument. I got all of my import models for $1600 or less, which blows my mind.
 

nightsprinter

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I'd never buy a 4-5k instrument because I'd destroy it. I typically find an unintentional way to ding stuff up within 48 hours of receipt. "Ah fuck, the door frame!" "Oh no! Table edge!"

Still working on getting that big open floor plan house in Beverly Hills... just not there yet...
 

MaxOfMetal

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I'd never buy a 4-5k instrument because I'd destroy it. I typically find an unintentional way to ding stuff up within 48 hours of receipt. "Ah fuck, the door frame!" "Oh no! Table edge!"

Still working on getting that big open floor plan house in Beverly Hills... just not there yet...

ABZs start at like $2500CAD, which is like $14.95 in Freedom Dollars.
 

TheBloodstained

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Dingwall owners: what is the comfort level like playing sitting down?
NG3-5 owner here. My only gripe with the bass is the position of the jack input when playing it in classical position, which makes it really easy to accidentally squash the jack wire. It's not really a problem though, just something you'd have to be a little aware of to avoid damaging the input.

I usually either place it on my leg like a normal guitar or play it standing up, but I do also go for classical position every now and then. I guess it depends on the part I'm trying to play/record.

Overall it's still the most comfortable bass I've ever owned. I only have 1 so far, but I'm often tempted to buy more.
 

Crungy

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NG3-5 owner here. My only gripe with the bass is the position of the jack input when playing it in classical position, which makes it really easy to accidentally squash the jack wire. It's not really a problem though, just something you'd have to be a little aware of to avoid damaging the input.

I usually either place it on my leg like a normal guitar or play it standing up, but I do also go for classical position every now and then. I guess it depends on the part I'm trying to play/record.

Overall it's still the most comfortable bass I've ever owned. I only have 1 so far, but I'm often tempted to buy more.
70uqlb-1.jpg

Agreed on the jack placement for classical position. If it's angled upwards enough it's not too big of a hassle but there are times I wish I didn't have to Lawmil it.
 

Mwoit

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I have both. The "A" body, like the NGs, feels pretty much like any other contemporary bass. The Birds, while I love mine, are larger and hang much differently and take some getting used to.

But the best deal in Dingwall are basic spec'd ABZs. Get one of those before the CAD gets better, as you'll be paying <$1k more for a Canadian custom shop bass.

The Korean and Chinese Dingwalls are good, but the Canadian stuff is great.
I've had my 2 ABZ6 for about 12 and 10 years respectively (blue, maple neck and green, wenge neck + triple pickup). Every other bass I've had pales in comparison - I've had other basses but these 2 have never let me down.

The only gripe I have is that they are quite zingy and modern sounding, which, you can get away by rolling the tone back. I am interested in the cheaper Super Ps when they come out.

20240615_174715.jpg

A live shot of the green one in action with Ashenspire, London.

AshenspireDesertfest-33.jpg
 

Crungy

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I've had my 2 ABZ6 for about 12 and 10 years respectively (blue, maple neck and green, wenge neck + triple pickup). Every other bass I've had pales in comparison - I've had other basses but these 2 have never let me down.

The only gripe I have is that they are quite zingy and modern sounding, which, you can get away by rolling the tone back. I am interested in the cheaper Super Ps when they come out.

View attachment 145125

A live shot of the green one in action with Ashenspire, London.

View attachment 145126
Sick basses! Which pickups do they have, and have you swapped out for any other Dingwall pickups?
 

Mwoit

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Sick basses! Which pickups do they have, and have you swapped out for any other Dingwall pickups?
Both are stock Dingwall pickups - blue is twin and green is triple. I've never been too picky with gear modifications. I find that the preamp (Sansamp in this case) is enough to make it sound big!
 

Crungy

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Both are stock Dingwall pickups - blue is twin and green is triple. I've never been too picky with gear modifications. I find that the preamp (Sansamp in this case) is enough to make it sound big!
Right on, I couldn't remember what those came with... Looks like it's FDV's according to their website. I know some people swap those for Super Fatty II's or P-Tone's for a different sound.
 

nightsprinter

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Crungy did you do the pickup swap on your d-roc where you swap the middle and neck pickup so the rotary switch allows you to get a jazz bass tone by engaging the bridge and neck pup @ the same time? Apparently there's enough slack on the leads to do it without detaching wires if you just cut the zip tie.
 

Crungy

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Crungy did you do the pickup swap on your d-roc where you swap the middle and neck pickup so the rotary switch allows you to get a jazz bass tone by engaging the bridge and neck pup @ the same time? Apparently there's enough slack on the leads to do it without detaching wires if you just cut the zip tie.
I have not, I don't think I knew that trick!
 

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@Crungy or anyone else: have you compared the Dingwall nickel long-scale strings to the Dingwall stainless long-scale strings?

I'm currently using the nickel, and would like to try the stainless, but I don't want to lose any tension and the stainless are .127 for the B string.
 

nightsprinter

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I have nothing to add to what you asked crushingpetal, but it made me wonder how long the frets will hold up with stainless strings since the dings use the little banjo wire.
 

crushingpetal

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I have nothing to add to what you asked crushingpetal, but it made me wonder how long the frets will hold up with stainless strings since the dings use the little banjo wire.
I tried my best to research this when I was debating the BTB605ms (ss frets) vs. the Dingwall (not ss frets), and the TalkBass folks seemed to suggest that the Dingwall frets were just fine and would hold up to ss strings. I'm not sure if that is total bs, but my digging seemed to suggest that the people worried about Dingwall frets were the potential buyers, and the actual owners seemed happy. 2 cents.
 

Crungy

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I can't imagine the tension is that different from a 130 to 127. I've used both in addition to Payson strings of similar size and never noticed a huge difference in tension.

The only strings I have noticed being much stiffer are Daddario extra long strings (non-multiscale) and some DR's that I think were Lo Riders. I think those were all nickel.

I tried my best to research this when I was debating the BTB605ms (ss frets) vs. the Dingwall (not ss frets), and the TalkBass folks seemed to suggest that the Dingwall frets were just fine and would hold up to ss strings. I'm not sure if that is total bs, but my digging seemed to suggest that the people worried about Dingwall frets were the potential buyers, and the actual owners seemed happy. 2 cents.
I don't gig or play as much as I used to but I've heard the same about these frets. Likely nothing to worry about.
 

Crungy

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What are yall tuning to
I do the following...

NG3 4 string: drop G up to (mostly) drop C, sometimes drop D.

Dbird: mostly drop B, sometimes drop A.

Combustion 5: mostly drop G/A standard/drop A.

NG3 5 string: mostly drop E up to drop G, but sometimes up to standard BEADG.


I have Daddario nickels on the Dbird otherwise everything else is Dingwall or Payson. I think all of my Paysons are stainless, can't remember on the Dingwall strings. I think the largest B string I'm using is a 130. I do have a stainless Payson set with a 145 for the NG3 5 string, that should be a little better for drop E.
 

nightsprinter

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I do the following...

NG3 4 string: drop G up to (mostly) drop C, sometimes drop D.

Dbird: mostly drop B, sometimes drop A.

Combustion 5: mostly drop G/A standard/drop A.

NG3 5 string: mostly drop E up to drop G, but sometimes up to standard BEADG.


I have Daddario nickels on the Dbird otherwise everything else is Dingwall or Payson. I think all of my Paysons are stainless, can't remember on the Dingwall strings. I think the largest B string I'm using is a 130. I do have a stainless Payson set with a 145 for the NG3 5 string, that should be a little better for drop E.

Right on. I'll be in A Standard on my 5 string. I usually use a .145 minimum for A on my 35" scale basses, so I guess I'm gonna have to go visit the string tension calculator and see what that means for a 37".
 
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