Empryrean
angery gear acquirer
Makin me want an sg bro xD
Epiphone G400 Modifications
- Thread starter Wretched
- Start date
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The amount of satin (if that's the correct way to phrase it) in that black is just fantastic. If it could be left just like that, and stay just like that after being played, with no need for additional clear coats etc it would be just perfect.
Anyways, amazing project. This is what an SG should look like.
Anyways, amazing project. This is what an SG should look like.
Thanks man, very nice of you to say.
My Ibz Talman TC420 wears a satin I think you'd like. Can't remember the damned brand name though. But you can clean finger prints right off of it. Even after five years of playing, the forearm bevel hasn't gone shiny from constant rubbing... It was called Hot Rod Black, but damned if I can remember the manufacturer.
I guess these days with the number of satin and matte clear coat options (albeit for proper paint gun-type applications), anything is possible.
My Ibz Talman TC420 wears a satin I think you'd like. Can't remember the damned brand name though. But you can clean finger prints right off of it. Even after five years of playing, the forearm bevel hasn't gone shiny from constant rubbing... It was called Hot Rod Black, but damned if I can remember the manufacturer.
I guess these days with the number of satin and matte clear coat options (albeit for proper paint gun-type applications), anything is possible.
Pretty sure this is it: HR010 HOT ROD BLACK
Cheers! Thanks a lot mate
Got the body masked up today for the stripes and have just laid down the first few thin coats to get the coverage. It covers remarkably well over the black.
I scuffed the surface with some 0000 steel wool after masking it all up. Blew it all out and wiped it down. First few coats DID get a little dust in them regardless, which I'll try to knock off with some more steel wool before one final thicker coat.
Here's the body masked up. Hoping the A4 paper I used to mask the wings of the body seals OK. If the solvents get through, it may mark the black underneath. If it does, I'll sand through parts of it and make it look like a worn, patina'd body. If not, then hooray.
I scuffed the surface with some 0000 steel wool after masking it all up. Blew it all out and wiped it down. First few coats DID get a little dust in them regardless, which I'll try to knock off with some more steel wool before one final thicker coat.
Here's the body masked up. Hoping the A4 paper I used to mask the wings of the body seals OK. If the solvents get through, it may mark the black underneath. If it does, I'll sand through parts of it and make it look like a worn, patina'd body. If not, then hooray.
As I thought, the paint seemed to create some reaction with parts of the satin black. No colour seeped through, it just seemed to cause some hazing or something. However, the paint lines are nice and sharp, which is good.
So, that leaves me with three options. Only two of which I think are really viable:
1) Leave the gold a few days and mask the outer gold stripes, putting another coat of black down on the body wings. However, that risks lifting the gold.
2) Hitting the entire guitar with 0000 steel wool and obtaining a very matte finish.
QUESTION - Has anyone done this on a dark finish? Will the scratches be visible if you scour the surface long enough? What would you recommend?
3) Giving the guitar the aged look, sanding through parts to the undercoat and old gold finish etc, highlighting areas like the forearm contact surface and areas normally hit by the pick and fingers... I figure if option 2 doesn't look right, I can still use option 3. Which may also remove the slightly raised paint line you always get when you're not sanding the edges down.
What do you think? Which would you choose?
So, that leaves me with three options. Only two of which I think are really viable:
1) Leave the gold a few days and mask the outer gold stripes, putting another coat of black down on the body wings. However, that risks lifting the gold.
2) Hitting the entire guitar with 0000 steel wool and obtaining a very matte finish.
QUESTION - Has anyone done this on a dark finish? Will the scratches be visible if you scour the surface long enough? What would you recommend?
3) Giving the guitar the aged look, sanding through parts to the undercoat and old gold finish etc, highlighting areas like the forearm contact surface and areas normally hit by the pick and fingers... I figure if option 2 doesn't look right, I can still use option 3. Which may also remove the slightly raised paint line you always get when you're not sanding the edges down.
What do you think? Which would you choose?
CrushingAnvil
Ironically enough, now in Jesus Land
Man, I hope you like the way this is turning out but that colour scheme bums me out big time 
It's looking just like the original concept sketch on page one at this point. Aside from the problem with the black, I'm digging it. Didn't want a red or blue or some other primary colour or typical colour scheme look to it and thought silver might be a bit boring as well. The gold is kind of like an ode, or homage to the original colour of the guitar.
2) YES! 0000 steel wool will leave scratches that are pretty visible on a dark finished body. I just did this to my RG350 and am now using sandpaper to smooth it out. If you want to go this route high grit sandpaper (probably 1500+ would be your best bet).
3)I really hate the aged look so I'm gonna vote no to this option.
Honestly, I'm really liking how this is looking right now. Looks very classy. Maybe option 1 is a good way to go? Whatever you choose, I hope it turns out well for you!
Might go for the fine grit paper approach. Could have the added benefit of smoothing out the stripes, too. The edges, I mean.
I also noticed (slaps forehead) that the stripes actually slant a little upward at the bridge end of the body. I used the strip button hole as a location for the centreline instead of using the bridge holes... As it turned out, the strap button hole was a few milimetres higher than the actual body centreline... I think once the hardware is attached, it'll be more noticeable, too. Oh well, I suppose it was never going to be perfect.
I also noticed (slaps forehead) that the stripes actually slant a little upward at the bridge end of the body. I used the strip button hole as a location for the centreline instead of using the bridge holes... As it turned out, the strap button hole was a few milimetres higher than the actual body centreline... I think once the hardware is attached, it'll be more noticeable, too. Oh well, I suppose it was never going to be perfect.
Update: Well, after a few days I feel like the effects of the solvents on the satin black surfaces have reduced. So, I'm going ahead and assembling it as-is. I figure one of three things will happen: I'll like it and leave it, I'll damage it enough during assembly that I'll say "Fudge it, let's sand this fugger down or I'll get sick of the solvent damage and choose option two above.
At the end of the day, I guess the satin black is going to get damaged through regular use anyway...
Will post some pics when the thing is back together.
At the end of the day, I guess the satin black is going to get damaged through regular use anyway...
Will post some pics when the thing is back together.
Here's the assembled G400. Just needs wiring, strings and setup. Also waiting on an RGA truss rod cover and control cavity cover.
I think it turned out really well. There's no hint of the old tone pot holes and output jack hole and the markings on the black paint are barely noticeable against the stripes and hardware. In a dark venue or where ever, no one will really notice it but me (perhaps that's the worst person to notice).
Anyway, what do you think? (...and yes, I fit the tuners upside down on purpose so the pegs would look right on the head stock)
I think it turned out really well. There's no hint of the old tone pot holes and output jack hole and the markings on the black paint are barely noticeable against the stripes and hardware. In a dark venue or where ever, no one will really notice it but me (perhaps that's the worst person to notice).
Anyway, what do you think? (...and yes, I fit the tuners upside down on purpose so the pegs would look right on the head stock)
Man, that finish looks great! 
If I had to have an opinion I'd say that perhaps something gold on the truss-rod cover to tie it together would be nice, and I'd really like to see that fretboard dyed darker as it kind of sticks out with a completely different color scheme than the rest of the guitar at the moment.
But I'll say it again: that black is TASTY.
If I had to have an opinion I'd say that perhaps something gold on the truss-rod cover to tie it together would be nice, and I'd really like to see that fretboard dyed darker as it kind of sticks out with a completely different color scheme than the rest of the guitar at the moment.
But I'll say it again: that black is TASTY.
Thanks man. Fretboard will be cleaned and re-oiled before fresh strings go on. That'll make it darker. Not black, but darker. It actually has a little masking tape adhesive on the upper frets at the moment that makes it look dirty and a little lighter than it is.
That turned out really well! I'm glad you left it as is.
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