NGD: 1990s Yamaha Pacifica 512J

lost_horizon

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A local guy was offering this guitar on Facebook Marketplace for $150, couldn't believe my luck

(Ad pics, nice shoes!!)
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Aluminium neck plate from Rich Lasner
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Back of the neck refinish is a crime against humanity
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Frets which used to be compound radius and jumbo look almost dead:
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My pics:
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Spare parts and jack are in the case.

Specs were as follows:
Body Alder
Neck Maple Total Access joint
Fretboard Rosewood 22 frets compound radius 240mms to 400mms
Headstock Plain Old style logo "Pacifica Model name Yamaha " Tuning Fork Logo 1 string tree
Tuners Yamaha Diecast
Pickups 512 Black Alnico (probably V) Humbucker and 2 white Alnico (probably ii) single coils
Pickups 521 same spec as above but 1 black humbucker and 1 white humbucker
Controls Chrome 1 Volume 1 Tone 5 way switch No coil tap
Nut 43mms
Hardware Chrome
Bridge Standard Yamaha Vibrato
Pickguard White Laminated
Colours 512 Pacific Blue, Black, Metallic Red, White
Colours 521 Black, Deep Blue Metallic, Metallic Red, White

Planning to maybe respray the body, refret and maybe pickup change back to stock?

Definitely will refinish the neck.

Never fretted a compound radius neck before, will be interesting!!
 

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lost_horizon

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Nice score! Is the aluminum plate contraption stock? I can't say I've ever seen that before.
Yep, must have been expensive to do because it only lasted about 6 years.

The upper fret access is really funny, there is no transition it is all neck up to the 22 frets then a square block.
 

groverj3

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I don't have much advice on the refret front. Other than if you're doing stainless steel, you should pre-bend them each to close to the proper radius before pressing/hammering them in. You can measure the radius at each position on the freeboard if the board is free of defects. However, with something old there always the chance of fretboard inconsistencies.
 

lost_horizon

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I don't have much advice on the refret front. Other than if you're doing stainless steel, you should pre-bend them each to close to the proper radius before pressing/hammering them in. You can measure the radius at each position on the freeboard if the board is free of defects. However, with something old there always the chance of fretboard inconsistencies.
I'm gonna refinish the fretboard, sealer then a coat of Crimson guitars finishing oil, same to the back of the neck
 
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