As long as you also have ground wires to the tone knobs then it's all fine, I generally ground the pickups just to the volume ground anyway.So I'm wiring in this free-way switch and it has all these lugs for each pickup ground. But the ground leads on the pickups are too short to reach the switch... I think they're cut specifically to length to just about where the vol pot will be. Is there any problem just wiring all 3 to the back of the vol pot as ground?
As long as you also have ground wires to the tone knobs then it's all fine, I generally ground the pickups just to the volume ground anyway.
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The saddles on my RGA321F are all very close to the neck side of the bridge (it's in E standard), so the springs aren't visible. I've never disassembled it and had assumed it was just screws.
Do the springs prevent the saddles from moving all the way back to end of what appears to be the range of movement then?
This. The way the bridge is built prevents you from seeing the springs. It's the same system as something like a Hipshot, except it's all under the saddles and covered by the bridge structure.Yes, the springs compress into a thick stack preventing the saddle to use the full movement of the screw.
@narad Amish Wood Milk is good. I've used the Gerlitz Smudge Off and Guitar honey on a plain walnut/black limba custom I had once. Even though you shouldn't do that. I put the guitar honey down first and wiped it clean and dry with micro fiber, then did the smudge off and it looked better and felt smooth. This method made the grain pop and give it that waxed feel like on gloss bodys but not quite that slick. Not oil or gross feeling at all.
- Amish wood milk on the other hand is great and doesn't leave that gross oily minwax type feel as well, like mineral spirits and truoil can. It just feels like plain but nourished wood, not oily or sticky or too dry. It just cleans it and nourishes it and feels clean. I liked it best. It lasted for a while even after several micro fiber wipe downs. I only had to put it on like once a year and it was just a few squirts. I didn't sweat all over it though.
Not totally sure. Old Schecter stuff came in a variety of woods that I have no experience at all with. Some of the figuring on the back is very walnut-ish, but the color doesn't seem so right for that. It has a very fragrant smell.0000 steelwool or synthetic equivalent with low pressure. You shouldn't even need to refinish anything. If you do, the best is obviously to refinish using the original finish (if you can guess what it is) but I am guessing some form of thin varnish was used, or hardwax.
Are you sure it's rosewood though? The color seems a bit off, as does the grain pattern.
In my experience, roasted woods give a much stronger smell but they were not in fashion until recently. What it could likely be is a lighter wood finished with a stained something, as the neck pocket would also suggest.
What is a good way to put a rolled edge on an existing guitar? I’ve seen the screwdriver method and that seems pretty yucky to me, from the standpoint of someone who has done some woodworking. My first instinct would be to tape the face of the fretboard off, and tape up to the edge of the fretboard on the neck and use some sort of sanding technique or jig then refile the fret ends.
How far off am I?
Thanks - a bit worried about this repair and the lacquer pen really did not help. Is CA glue safe for the lacquer on the fretboard? I was worried about it melting it.If it's just the lacquer and not the wood, you can top it off with some CA glue then sand flat and polish to match the lacquer.