Neon_Knight_
Well-Known Member
I was expecting someone to respond with "just break it in for 10,000 hours / 20 years"
Quick luthiery/manteinance questions not deserving a thread
- Thread starter OmegaSlayer
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youngthrasher9
Ur Mom Is Too Much Gain
I love that level of gatekeeping lolI was expecting someone to respond with "just break it in for 10,000 hours / 20 years"
I’m like “nah, I’ll continue playing for 40 minutes a week thanks”
I guess that depends on if it's nitro or not, I don't think CA plays nice with nitro but I've had success with it on acrylic and polyester lacquer.
NoodleFace
Delicious Noodles
Thanks for your replies. I sent this one to the luthier for $50. Guitars worth a bit too much for me to experiment with.
Not sure this is the right thread for this but... Ola's doing me dirty again 
Anyone ever removed one of these DPDT pots from that stupid hole in a Boden's control cavity? I really, REALLY would not have minded the cavity being a half inch longer on that side... I'd rather not have to remove any wood. They must have got that in there somehow to begin with.
Anyone ever removed one of these DPDT pots from that stupid hole in a Boden's control cavity? I really, REALLY would not have minded the cavity being a half inch longer on that side... I'd rather not have to remove any wood. They must have got that in there somehow to begin with.
High Plains Drifter
... drifting...
^^^ oof.. It's almost like they threaded it in lol. I would try to gently tap it back through ( using a mallet or piece of wood to protect the pot/ shaft). You may also be able to press it back through. If it doesn't budge, I dunno if you could actually wiggle it enough to get it back through although I wouldn't want to get too rough with it in that regard. Doesn't appear to be enough room to rotate it counterclockwise out of there.
I wouldn't be concerned with damaging the threads on the pot and even if you do rough-up the wood around the hole, you're going to have to drill or ream it larger anyway so I wouldn't be overly concerned about that either.
I wouldn't be concerned with damaging the threads on the pot and even if you do rough-up the wood around the hole, you're going to have to drill or ream it larger anyway so I wouldn't be overly concerned about that either.
I got mad and I caved. I took a small semi round file and dug out the corners. I will have to dig out a bit more because the new pot going in there is sliiightly more girthy. Not a huge problem, really, but I am highly annoyed at the lack of thinking in the design of this thing. Ola got it so right in a lot of places, but SO wrong in others...
wheresthefbomb
Well-Known Member
Now that is satisfying. Love a happy ending!
JimF
Contributor
Is the routing for a single coil wider than the routing for a humbucker?
I don't think a slanted one will be, but something tells me a straight one is wider.
Simplest idea is using a single coil sized humbucker, but this is just for aesthetics.
Also, how hard is it to rout a finished guitar without destroying the paint? Would scoring the paint with a blade help?
Yes I'm planning something
I don't think a slanted one will be, but something tells me a straight one is wider.
Simplest idea is using a single coil sized humbucker, but this is just for aesthetics.
Also, how hard is it to rout a finished guitar without destroying the paint? Would scoring the paint with a blade help?
Yes I'm planning something
JimF
Contributor
Actually, ignore that last question - of course you can rout a guitar without damaging the paint! But interested to know if there's any foolproof techniques.
tedtan
Well-Known Member
Put masking tape or painter’s tape over the area before drilling or routing and it will generally protect the finish and provide a clean line.
crushingpetal
SS.org Regular
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I have two Dan Erlewine books and this isn't mentioned: if I have a rosewood fretboard that's not super smooth (like my '00 Gibson), is it okay to use fine sanding / polishing paper (4000--6000) grit to smooth up the fretboard?
If yes, what direction do I sand and do I avoid the inlays?
(I might not even fuck with this because it's more cosmetic than anything. But that '00 fretboard feels so nice...)
If yes, what direction do I sand and do I avoid the inlays?
(I might not even fuck with this because it's more cosmetic than anything. But that '00 fretboard feels so nice...)
What do you mean with not smooth? Depending how you do it and your threshold, 400 grit is enough to feel smooth usually. Is it dirty or just badly sanded?
I'm any way, you could simply take 0000 steel wool and sand the fretboard, frets and inlay in one go from heel to nut. Might need to repolish frets to get some shine back but this is easily done with Autosol really.
I'm any way, you could simply take 0000 steel wool and sand the fretboard, frets and inlay in one go from heel to nut. Might need to repolish frets to get some shine back but this is easily done with Autosol really.
crushingpetal
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It's kinda' silly, but my '00 Gibson has this super smooth rosewood fretboard, almost as smooth as an ebony board. My '16 SG's fretboard feels like they rushed the fretboard sanding. Or, maybe it's just a different species of rosewood?
Much thanks. I want to avoid steel wool like the plague. I have 3M polishing papers (including 400 grit) so maybe that will work.
Steel wool gets a bad rep for not much really. It's just a matter of covering the pickups and vacuuming afterwards. But I would not go with 400 grit over the frets in any case. I think your best bet would then be to buy synthetic steel wool (fine or super fine) and just go at it without much pressure staying in the direction of the grain.
Hollowway
Extended Ranger
I was just watching a video of a PRS getting a black burst spray. The guy was doing it freehand with a sprayer. Is that typical? I've seen some baaaaaad DIY bursts, where the width is horribly inconsistent. I would have thought that there was some way to ensure an even spray, other than doing it by hand, but I guess not?
wheresthefbomb
Well-Known Member
Maybe this goes without saying, but I've also found that securing the guitar properly is critical. I've widened a few holes for larger diameter pot shafts, first time around I didn't clamp the guitar down and cracked the finish despite a thorough masking job because the guitar "jumped" when the drill went through the other side. Now I clamp whatever I'm working on to a cinder block (with a towel in between) and no issues.
I know I've seen quite a lot of Fender and Jackson videos of someone doing bursts by hand with no template. It is pretty damn nerve racking, not gonna lie lol in fact, I don't think I've ever seen a video of a machine doing it. Probably just someone with lots of experience and a steady hand.
For guitars in that price range, yeah, hand shot is the standard and really the best way to do it so that the burst fits the guitar properly.
There are more automated processes used by big factories, including FMIC, but generally the results range from decent down to laughable since it's not a process that can be tailored for the individual instrument.
Finishing is a whole other skill, much like inlay work, painting, etc. It's why most shops farm out the work and why great sprayers tend to stick around.
