Strandberg / Astral EXR Systems / Announcement!

[Cloudy]

Yeap exactly ^

Honestly I'm MORE inclined to do a NGD if the guitar is defective specifically to warn others of problems they can expect with their purchase.

 

[ramses]

Does anyone know what exactly is being used for finishing on these? Natural oil doesn't mean a dang thing when more often than not people refer to polyurethane as an oil finish because it contains linseed oil. If anybody has any idea what the actual finish is on the body, neck and fret board I can recommend some maintenance products and techniques that will keep your guitars protected for a long time.

It is a thin poly finish for the body. My wenge neck/fretboard seems to be the same.

 

[StevenC]

...and the lowest string (that the previous owner had on) is stuck in the tuner... -.- Just my luck. (This could cause a problem.)

Yeah, the big strings can be hard to remove, get some pliers and yank it out!

 

[Jonathan20022]

Yep, very thin Poly layer on the body, not sure about the neck. Other than that that's just information directly from them.

I've been promised a far better top verbally and waiting on a written confirmation of this via email for my rebuild. That's the only thing that could have been improved on my own build, there are NO flaws whatsoever and if I wasn't given this promise (Waiting on a written one) I wouldn't take the rebuild. Combine that with the fact that I do have a CL7 on the way, I won't be without a Strandberg in the few weeks I have to wait to get a replacement. I've been talking to Blackheim throughout this and I believe he's taking the rebuild as well.

And before people get the wrong idea, I will re-iterate

I am NOT taking the rebuild because my guitar had any kind of flaws, I'm taking the rebuild because I was offered a far nicer top than what I have on mine. The instrument is flawless, and if the guys over at Washburn didn't offer me the only thing that could have been improved on my build I would not have taken it.

I'm actually very impressed that people are finally giving a shit about flaws instead of just dealing with them. Stuff like Bernie Rico's situation had me pretty upset considerably so because I had a friend who I had to convince to jump off that train before it crashed. So it's cool that you guys are not standing for flaws.

 

[ramses]

I've been promised a far better top verbally and waiting on a written confirmation of this via email for my rebuild.

Are you sending back the guitar immediately, or once the rebuild is ready to ship?

 

[Jonathan20022]

I'm debating on what to do, but it seems like I have to ship immediately but they said they'll start the build and have it done within a month or so. I'll wait til Monday when I get my CL7 and I'm fine with waiting for the Boden if I have another with me for the time being. We'll see what comes of it but I won't make a fuss if I don't get something that has the same quality as Letchford's or some of the other artists.

 

[Emperor Guillotine]

If anybody has any idea what the actual finish is on the body, neck and fret board I can recommend some maintenance products and techniques that will keep your guitars protected for a long time.

This please. Thanks Tom.

---------------------------
After thought: I wonder if they'll offer a rebuild for someone who gets (or has gotten) a shitty S7G Boden? Or would S7G have to be contacted?

 

[Jonathan20022]

This please. Thanks Tom.

---------------------------
After thought: I wonder if they'll offer a rebuild for someone who gets (or has gotten) a shitty S7G Boden? Or would S7G have to be contacted?

I believe both companies' orders remained separated. Back when S7G lost Strandberg, there was promise of the orders moving to Washburn but I don't believe that ever happened. Jim still has to deliver those builds for whatever is left of his company.

 

[Emperor Guillotine]

So, a Strandberg can only take up to a certain gauge of string...unless I modify the headpieces, bridge, and nut and risk ruining the guitar's hardware. I've got this thing in F#-standard with a .10-.82 set and it still feels loose as hell which is weird since the scale is 28"-26.5". (Drop-E is out of the question right now.)

Both ends (ball-end and non-ball end) of the lowest string are unwrapped a bit to fit through the bridge and the headpiece better...but I'm not sure if this could solve my problem if I were to use like a string in the .85-.90 range.

This is just weirding me out. I used the same set of strings (.10-.82) on my Schecter (26.5") and could pull off my main tunings (F#, B, F#, B, E, G#, C#, F# -> and half-a-step down from this) no problem while maintaining my desired tension. So why can't I tune standard and drop just the lowest string considering that the Strandberg has a longer scale length?...

 

[Tom Drinkwater]

So, a Strandberg can only take up to a certain gauge of string...unless I modify the headpieces, bridge, and nut and risk ruining the guitar's hardware. I've got this thing in F#-standard with a .10-.82 set and it still feels loose as hell which is weird since the scale is 28"-26.5". (Drop-E is out of the question right now.)

Both ends (ball-end and non-ball end) of the lowest string are unwrapped a bit to fit through the bridge and the headpiece better...but I'm not sure if this could solve my problem if I were to use like a string in the .85-.90 range.

This is just weirding me out. I used the same set of strings (.10-.82) on my Schecter (26.5") and could pull off my main tunings (F#, B, F#, B, E, G#, C#, F# -> and half-a-step down from this) no problem while maintaining my desired tension. So why can't I tune standard and drop just the lowest string considering that the Strandberg has a longer scale length?...

Headless guitars and headed guitars are completely different when it comes to strings. I'm not sure the science behind that but I've found it to be the case. I've also found certain brands of strings feel completely different on the same guitar. Circle K .076's I've found to feel very loose compared to Ernie Ball .074 or even GHS .072. Try a few different brands of string and use the one that feels the best.

 

[Blackheim]

@Emperor_Guillotine, as Tom said, these are completely different in feel (I compared my CL7 with my JPXI) and the strings felt loose in the CL7 even though the CL had bigger strings. Maybe the zero fret contributes to that (being the strings lower in comparison to a nut = less tension)

 

[Jonathan20022]

@Emperor_Guillotine, as Tom said, these are completely different in feel (I compared my CL7 with my JPXI) and the strings felt loose in the CL7 even though the CL had bigger strings. Maybe the zero fret contributes to that (being the strings lower in comparison to a nut = less tension)

^ I think so as well, low strings feel lower in tension in comparison to any of my other guitars. higher strings obviously do because of the 25" on the higher end.

I'm sure you could modify the hardware, people have done that for years. Guitars with headstocks are far easier since you can buy a tuner with a larger opening for the strings, or modify the machine head existing to accept the larger string.

Another option is to unwind the string and lock down the core up top. As far as the bridge, I've done setups for guys who use very thick strings and tune very low with thicker strings. What I usually do is I press the ball end side of the winds so it will fit into the slot in the bridge of the floyd. Considering I've already shaved down the piece that gets pushed to hold the string into place.

In the Strandberg's case, I'd recommend pressing the winds down before modifying the hardware. Can also reinforce the winds near the ball end after doing this by applying some solder to it as well.

 

[StevenC]

You probably won't need to modify the headpiece at all for the thicker strings, as I said, people have been successfully using .090s with Strandberg hardware.

EDIT: I mean, unless you're planning to go super thick, like .100, in which case it's untested or undocumented ground.

 

[Emperor Guillotine]

Another option is to unwind the string and lock down the core up top. As far as the bridge, I've done setups for guys who use very thick strings and tune very low with thicker strings.

I've actually unwound both ends (ball end for the bridge and non-ball end for the headpiece). The string feels a little "unstable" for some reason.

You probably won't need to modify the headpiece at all for the thicker strings, as I said, people have been successfully using .090s with Strandberg hardware.

EDIT: I mean, unless you're planning to go super thick, like .100, in which case it's untested or undocumented ground.

I'm at a .82, seriously think that I might need a .90 though. (You posted earlier and said that a .86 still felt loose. I'm a tension nut and with my style of playing, I need strings that will resonate but also return quickly after the pick attack.)

 

[Tom Drinkwater]

You can always try out a custom single string from Labella. When ordering there is a spot on the form where you can give them some info for the string lengths or guitar model. They are really fast and aren't expensive at all so you could check out 3 or 4 different gauges for under $20.

 

[Jonathan20022]

So I've come to a bit of a standstill, heard a lot of negative things coming from Washburn as of late. Been offered that rebuild, but like I said I'm entirely satisfied with my Boden. So in reality any of these situations is what could happen.

A. I keep my guitar and enjoy it since it's got no problems whatsoever
B. Take the rebuild and get a guitar with a better top, but risk getting one with issues since it's being rebuilt.
C. Take the rebuild and get a guitar that is an overall improvement from my current Boden 7 in the aesthetics department.

The issue with B is that I'm afraid that by throwing a completely fine guitar out will result in a guitar that while looks slightly nicer, has the chance of coming with a problem of some sort. Which is still very much possible, so not sure what to make of the situation as of now.

 

[TBF_Seb]

A. I keep my guitar and enjoy it since it's got no problems whatsoever
B. Take the rebuild and get a guitar with a better top, but risk getting one with issues since it's being rebuilt.
C. Take the rebuild and get a guitar that is an overall improvement from my current Boden 7 in the aesthetics department.

If you want to add some credibility to the numerous posts you wrote about your opinion on tops (and other people's opinions in contrast), you should go with A.

 

[Jonathan20022]

If you want to add some credibility to the numerous posts you wrote about your opinion on tops (and other people's opinions in contrast), you should go with A.

Credibility doesn't have anything to do with this to be completely honest. I don't have anything to prove to anyone here the main problem I'm having is wether I want to dump a build with no issues in favor of a nicer top. I've only ever spoken about tops on my behalf, by no means should anyone feel the same way I do about guitars.

I've been given the opportunity to get a nicer top at no cost to me, but at the cost of a new build that has potential for more problems but have a nice top. That's the issue at hand. What if I get a guitar with some problems that ends up needing another rebuild later down the line.

 

[AxeHappy]

Are you happy with it?

If yes, than rock the guitar.

If you aren't happy with the top, get a rebuild. And if it's ....ed up have them rebuild it again. And again. Until they get it right.

This isn't some cheap import piece of shit. This is a semi-custom guitar that costs more than most people spend on used cars nowadays. There is *no* excuse for it not being perfect.

 

[underthecurve]

Edit: nobody needs to hear by bitching about my s7 boden 8 that I'll never see.