Trem block size

[gnoll]

I want to get a brass trem block for my soloist but I'm not sure about size. I tried measuring but it didn't make me much wiser because I'm not sure how high the block should go compared to the edge of the cavity. I'm fine having the backplate off (it's missing anyway) but maybe it should still not be so big that it ends up in the way. Also it would change the angle of the springs, not sure if that matters...

Anyone got advice? Bridge is OFR btw.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

It's impossible to say exactly without knowing how you have the guitar setup (how high or low you have the bridge) and the tolerance (has changed through the years) as far as the routing in back.

The easiest option would be to just get a block that's the same(ish) size.

Measure the existing block, and then measure the space around the block when you have the bridge dived and pulled to see how much room you're working with.

 

[gnoll]

It's impossible to say exactly without knowing how you have the guitar setup (how high or low you have the bridge) and the tolerance (has changed through the years) as far as the routing in back.

The easiest option would be to just get a block that's the same(ish) size.

Measure the existing block, and then measure the space around the block when you have the bridge dived and pulled to see how much room you're working with.

Sounds good, thanks!

 

[Emperoff]

The FR block size is usually stamped on the block (32, 37 or 42). If you can't see it you can sneak the phone camera and take a pic.

Chances are, if the floyd is recessed, 99% of the times the block will be 32mm.

 

[Marked Man]

Whatever you have, a "fat" version of the same length is ideal so that you don't compromise the range/feel of your Floyd.

I put a fat titanium 32mm in my Jackson Soloist for example and it gained girth and top end, but didn't sacrifice Floyd action. A fat 42mm would've possibly required wood routing for deep dives, plus the feel of the guitar would've been different, and not all prefer it.

I also have one Charvel USA that unusually came with a 42mm thin block, so I replaced that one with a 42mm fat (twice as thick) brass block to beef up the tone nicely.

 

[gnoll]

I think it's got a 32, but I thought it would be nice if I could fit a bigger one. The bigger the block the more improvement I figure.

 

[Calibix]

I just recently installed a 37mm FU-Tone block on my Schecter Hellraiser Hybrid. You measure from the bottom of the bridge plate to the back of the cavity cover. The distance between the block and towards the neck should be the same.

My guitar had plenty of space towards the back, and height to spare, YMMV.

 

[Emperoff]

I think it's got a 32, but I thought it would be nice if I could fit a bigger one. The bigger the block the more improvement I figure.

Not sure if you already swapped it or not, but "improvement" is not the word you are looking for. "Difference" is. There have been enough tests already to debunk the increased sustain myth, but tremolo blocks will definetely change the tone of the guitar. For better or worse that's up to you to decide.

A bigger block won't give you more sustain, but the guitar will probably sound warmer. Remember OFR blocks are brass already. I'm sure as hell I won't put a big brass block on my FR equipped guitars (they're warm and heavy enough).

 

[gnoll]

Not sure if you already swapped it or not, but "improvement" is not the word you are looking for. "Difference" is. There have been enough tests already to debunk the increased sustain myth, but tremolo blocks will definetely change the tone of the guitar. For better or worse that's up to you to decide.

A bigger block won't give you more sustain, but the guitar will probably sound warmer. Remember OFR blocks are brass already. I'm sure as hell I won't put a big brass block on my FR equipped guitars (they're warm and heavy enough).

I haven't got around to it yet!

Yeah I can see what you're saying. I've listened to comparisons and I think I'd want a block as big as possible. Looking for solid and less "springy" tone since I grew up on fixed bridges and prefer that tone and feel.

 

[TheWarAgainstTime]

I changed out the block on my Floyd Special to a bigger L-shaped brass one from FU-tone. My original block was 34mm, but I went with a 37mm one since I had room to spare in the cavity.

I never actually use the bar on that guitar, so I wasn't worried about losing the range of motion or reaching the tension adjustment screw I don't think I would be missing out on any of that range of motion anyway, though.

The guitar definitely has a bit of extra beef to the tone after the swap, which is exactly what I wanted out of it

 

[Marked Man]

I can confirm a thicker (not thickest) 37mm titanium block fit in my Charvel 475 (came with thin 32) with no sacrifice in motion.

 

[Mathemagician]

I just recently installed a 37mm FU-Tone block on my Schecter Hellraiser Hybrid. You measure from the bottom of the bridge plate to the back of the cavity cover. The distance between the block and towards the neck should be the same.

My guitar had plenty of space towards the back, and height to spare, YMMV.
View attachment 97599 View attachment 97600

I just went to say that from that angle that looks like the thinnest neck I’ve ever seen. Lmao.

 

[Emperoff]

I just went to say that from that angle that looks like the thinnest neck I’ve ever seen. Lmao.

Maybe it is. I've heard recent Schecters have stupidly thin necks.

 

[Calibix]

Maybe it is. I've heard recent Schecters have stupidly thin necks.

Its the Schecter Ultra-Thin C. It seems really thin to me, which I like. I also have the Ultra-Thin D on another guitar but honestly I can't tell the difference other than satin vs sanded gloss which is marginal. Most people from what I've read here do think these are very thin necks.