What's on your workbench?

[Randy]

Similar, I'v had issues with using the exact same Marlin firmware on one manufacturers Mega 2560 to another manufacturers version. Supposed to be the same...

Follow up on this.

Finally got this thing working reliably and even got homing and limiters functioning.

Couple things...

1.) I ordered another Arduino Uno+CNC Shield +A4988 set. Got everything installed and it still acted exactly the same aka not working.

2.) What I realized was that I was using OpenBuilds to flash GRBL. It turns out it flashes 1.1 and the CNC Shield I have is only compatible with 0.9 and under. So I reflashed it with 0.9j using the Arduino SDK.

After that, stepper control became consistent and reliable. I haven't fine tuned the amperage to the drivers but gave them a quarter turn from stock and they seem to be happy.

3.) Limit switches were throwing constant alarm code. After messing with it, I figured out that that my switches are C-NO-NC and I had them wires to default closed, when it should be open and close when triggered.

Even after fixing that, still has constant alarms. After unplugging and plugging stuff in, I realized X and Y worked, Z didn't. I rewired them a half dozen times, changed the switches and still the same result.

After googling, I found out vanilla CNC Shield v3.0 is actually designed for GRBL 0.8c and the pinout is different for 0.9j that I'm running. There is no bottom Z limiter, and the top Z attaches to the spindle activation pins. After changing that it works 100%

Will post some pics/vids when I put the guts back in.

 

[Randy]

Forgive that some of this is in vertical, I shot a few of these for Insta but figured they were relevant so I'd throw them in

 

[IGC]

3.) Limit switches were throwing constant alarm code. After messing with it, I figured out that that my switches are C-NO-NC and I had them wires to default closed, when it should be open and close when triggered.

Even after fixing that, still has constant alarms. After unplugging and plugging stuff in, I realized X and Y worked, Z didn't. I rewired them a half dozen times, changed the switches and still the same result.

I had limit switch problems too. They kept re-setting my Mega 2560 when trying to home. Turns out that since I was duplicating the original/fully functional way my 3d printer is wired up, loaded with Makerbot limit switches, the Makerbot limit switches somehow have a different wiring configuration than the switches that came in the new Mega 2560 3d printer kit - Elegoo? ...cheapest one on Amazon with A4988 drivers Ramps and limit switches etc. Anyhow I ended up flipping the L.S. plugs 180 Deg. , plugging them back in and it works flawlessly. Also the wires are now true to any color coded wiring diagrams I was able to find on line - Mendel Max 1.5.

With Arduino IDE, I modded the Marlin firmware print bed size to the metric conversion of 20 x 24 inches (configuration h) and selected the option to switch the second extruder plug on Ramps to a second -Y- axis motor drive plug, (config additional h) also selected the setting to have the two -Y- drive motors spin opposite eachother (config additional h ?) I also modded the firmware for direct drive -Z- leadscrew and re-flashed. All is well

 

[IGC]

I had limit switch problems too. They kept re-setting my Mega 2560 when trying to home. Turns out that since I was duplicating the original/fully functional way my 3d printer is wired up, loaded with Makerbot limit switches, the Makerbot limit switches somehow have a different wiring configuration than the switches that came in the new Mega 2560 3d printer kit - Elegoo? ...cheapest one on Amazon with A4988 drivers Ramps and limit switches etc. Anyhow I ended up flipping the L.S. plugs 180 Deg. , plugging them back in and it works flawlessly. Also the wires are now true to any color coded wiring diagrams I was able to find on line - Mendel Max 1.5.

With Arduino IDE, I modded the Marlin firmware print bed size to the metric conversion of 20 x 24 inches (configuration h) and selected the option to switch the second extruder plug on Ramps to a second -Y- axis motor drive plug, (config additional h) also selected the setting to have the two -Y- drive motors spin opposite eachother (config additional h ?) I also modded the firmware for direct drive -Z- leadscrew and re-flashed. All is well

 

[IGC]

I made the router last year, also got around to finishing this guitar, all pics are in my basement practise space etc.

 

[High Plains Drifter]

Not at all comparable to the killer stuff that you guys are doing, making actual guitars and necks with big equip, routers, cnc, etc. But figured I'd share my most recent project anyway.

Picked up a cheap bass recently and had to immediately upgrade the vol pot. The other pots are okay for now with a little DeoxIT flush. But these mini pots are about the crappiest I've ever seen and the vol was either 'ON' or 'OFF'.. no gradual taper. Replaced it with a CTS 250k audio mini and utilized a spare cap leg as a signal ground jumper. Came out really well... I think actually a better solder job than factory which makes me feel good.

I also had to enlarge the body's vol shaft hole by 1.45mm... starting with a small Dremel sanding drum around the top edge of the hole ( almost beveling it) so that I wouldn't risk chipping the paint when switching to the drill bit. Came out perfect. Anyway... That was about it but always feels good to be able to do these projects myself. Thanks for taking a look.

New CTS pot ready to go in after de-soldering the original HONGH pot...



CTS pot all soldered in and ready to go into the guitar...



A little unsettling but gotta super-size that hole lol...



Finished and looks great... the white crescent is light reflection fwiw...



I would've done a nicer job tidying up the wiring but without changing out all three pots, this was the best I could do...



Done and done...

 

[ZXIIIT]

More info here,
https://www.sevenstring.org/threads/can-this-ibanez-jem-be-saved.347095/

 

[Randy]

Not at all comparable to the killer stuff that you guys are doing, making actual guitars and necks with big equip, routers, cnc, etc. But figured I'd share my most recent project anyway.

Picked up a cheap bass recently and had to immediately upgrade the vol pot. The other pots are okay for now with a little DeoxIT flush. But these mini pots are about the crappiest I've ever seen and the vol was either 'ON' or 'OFF'.. no gradual taper. Replaced it with a CTS 250k audio mini and utilized a spare cap leg as a signal ground jumper. Came out really well... I think actually a better solder job than factory which makes me feel good.

I also had to enlarge the body's vol shaft hole by 1.45mm... starting with a small Dremel sanding drum around the top edge of the hole ( almost beveling it) so that I wouldn't risk chipping the paint when switching to the drill bit. Came out perfect. Anyway... That was about it but always feels good to be able to do these projects myself. Thanks for taking a look.

New CTS pot ready to go in after de-soldering the original HONGH pot...



CTS pot all soldered in and ready to go into the guitar...



A little unsettling but gotta super-size that hole lol...



Finished and looks great... the white crescent is light reflection fwiw...



I would've done a nicer job tidying up the wiring but without changing out all three pots, this was the best I could do...



Done and done...

Super clean work.

More info here,
https://www.sevenstring.org/threads/can-this-ibanez-jem-be-saved.347095/

Glad to see you had success with it, looks 100000x better.

 

[Randy]

Had my first successful cut without breaking shit. Single saddle protype.

 

[ZXIIIT]

Super clean work.



Glad to see you had success with it, looks 100000x better.

Thank you! Luckily the paint was intact, for the most part!

 

[Randy]

Finally getting consistent cuts with the Proxxon. Turned everything down, slower, shallower, less stepover and it stopped breaking bits.



Put them in the polisher to get the finish more consistent. This is after 2 hours



I'm really digging this finish for my purposes. Matte aluminum and I don't hate that some of the tooling is visible to set it apart from a cast piece. I'll prolly try a couple more hours on the tumbler to get out a few more scratches but I'm 99% set with this.

 

[IGC]

Finally getting consistent cuts with the Proxxon. Turned everything down, slower, shallower, less stepover and it stopped breaking bits.

View attachment 92590

Put them in the polisher to get the finish more consistent. This is after 2 hours

View attachment 92591

I'm really digging this finish for my purposes. Matte aluminum and I don't hate that some of the tooling is visible to set it apart from a cast piece. I'll prolly try a couple more hours on the tumbler to get out a few more scratches but I'm 99% set with this.

Spray a little WD40 into the cut for lube, if you havn't tried some other form of coolant.

 

[Randy]

Spray a little WD40 into the cut for lube, if you havn't tried some other form of coolant.

I've been drizzling this stuff at the corners and anywhere with ramps/plunges.

I'm not having too much issue with heat, but it helps with chip removal sorta. Vacuum pulls chips out steady where it's totally clean when you go dry, when you use the lube they clump and stick to surfaces, which isn't great down in slots but I do it anyway and just have to do a lot more vacuuming and drizzling.

I went from breaking three bits trying to make one baseplate to cutting five plates with one end mill, which is nice. I can probably up my depths and speeds a little but time isn't a huge factor at this point since I'm doing low numbers and it's fairly automated at this point, so I keep busy doing other stuff while it's working. Only thing left is to fab up a drip/fogger type rig and I think I can just hit 'go' and let it go.



Edit: I also might lower RPM a little.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I’m in the process of re building my entire work area, new toolbox, new cabinets, new workbench, dedicated stations.

https://www.facebook.com/THE-Guitar...Lx17DuDcURvTJLppaQHraKxj9kOPpP6e4&__tn__=R]-R

 

[IGC]

I've been drizzling this stuff at the corners and anywhere with ramps/plunges.

I'm not having too much issue with heat, but it helps with chip removal sorta. Vacuum pulls chips out steady where it's totally clean when you go dry, when you use the lube they clump and stick to surfaces, which isn't great down in slots but I do it anyway and just have to do a lot more vacuuming and drizzling.

I went from breaking three bits trying to make one baseplate to cutting five plates with one end mill, which is nice. I can probably up my depths and speeds a little but time isn't a huge factor at this point since I'm doing low numbers and it's fairly automated at this point, so I keep busy doing other stuff while it's working. Only thing left is to fab up a drip/fogger type rig and I think I can just hit 'go' and let it go.

View attachment 92610

Edit: I also might lower RPM a little.

Sounds good Randy, have you checked out coolant misters? They can blow out the chips and deliver coolant at the same time, if you have an air compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SBVZMMY/?tag=sevenstringorg-20

 

[Randy]

Oo daddy like.

New toy incoming btw, will hopefully have something fun to post next week.

 

[ChAoZ]

Some progress on my headless 8 string multiscale build

 

[Randy]

New thing came in.



Made a couple test cuts.



Turned a couple of knobs to go with a couple of builds I have in progress. Really happy with the results.

 

[ElRay]

Had my first successful cut without breaking shit. ...

What "stuff" did it take to get to this point? Also, if you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost? I see the milling machine for just under $400, but what about the rest?

 

[Randy]

What "stuff" did it take to get to this point? Also, if you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost? I see the milling machine for just under $400, but what about the rest?

Outside of the mill itself

- 3D printed parts (X,Y,Z which are each made of two or three parts); those were done in PLA
- NEMA 17 stepper motors
- Mini Limit Switches (directions called for 6 but you only need 3, and just set soft limit for the + positions)
- Arduino+CNC Shield v3+Drivers
- Power Supply (12V 10A max)
- Assorted wiring (mostly Dupont connector single wires, assorted male and female, some will need to be snipped and soldered)
- Shaft Couplers 5mm to 4mm (need to be drilled out on one side because the Proxxon lead screws are funky diameter)
- Shaft collars
- Bearings (626, basically skateboard bearings)
- Assorted screws/nuts/bolts

Pretty much everything came from Amazon. I don't remember exact costs and I ordered some of the wrong stuff and had to buy other stuff, so I think I was into the conversion about $150 give-or-take after having the right stuff and returning what I could.

Came with no bits, so those were just 1/8" square end milling bits, also Amazon I think like 6 pack for $20 or something like that. I've also been using some 1/16" with 1/8" shank, similar kinda price but you get more for the price obv.

That's what it took out of the box to hook it up to a computer and make cuts.

Chip control is imperfect, so expect you'll have oily metal shit all over the place no matter what, which isn't ideal with wires and open control boards. So some kind of container and wire management is somewhat necessary. Since the last pics/vids, I printed a CNC shield enclosure, routed the wires to determine what lengths were necessary for the bed travel, zip tied them and wound them up in a spiral wrap. That was only like $10 worth of stuff but worth it because cleanup is way easier and you can actually put it away/take it out, so it doesn't need a dedicated workstation.

Toolpaths are being done in Fusion 360, G-code sending is done through UGS which is essentially all freeware. I don't love UGS (I'm used to using Carbide Motion) but once you get down your macros, it's very useable. The CNC Shield you get on Amazon runs Grbl 0.9 and I think Fusion+UGS don't love it, so I often get errors but they just pause the process and you gotta hit 'go' a couple times to get it cutting again; mostly in the very beginning, after the first few passes it usually goes without any hiccups. Methinks a nicer newer Shield running 1.1 will run a little smoother.