@ElRay Good point. The room filter does not replace peronal protection masks! Of course, whenever possible and needed (orbital sanding, routing, ...) I wear an FFP2 mask and connect a vacuum cleaner for dust extraction. But this one in addition reduces particles floating around in the air significantly quicker and filters down to 1 micron size. A lot of the critical particle matter between 1 and 10 micron is filtered within a 10 minute break this way. At least in a small workshop like mine.
What's on your workbench?
- Thread starter Walterson
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
Solodini
MORE RESTS!
@Randy Wow! That's what I call a huge workshop, also like the stone walls.
If anyone ever thought about using those, I just received the El Cheapo headless tuners from AliExpress. Don't look bad at all, strings are clamped with a hex screw and the tuning mechanism has a ball bearing for smooth action. All in all, I'd call it a good choice at ~68USD for seven tuners including shipping to Europe.
Looking good!
CNC in, along with first cuts in the new shop. Upgraded to t-tracks from all painters tape and superglue, and cut myself a fresh spoilboard. 3D printer is currently running off some hold down.
This site may earn a commission from merchant links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
Hold downs finished. They came from thingiverse, the knobs I drafted myself because I didn't like any of the ones I saw. Everything's in PLA with 30% cubic infill and 4 layer walls, which is a good balance of strength and flexibility.
Kyle-Vick
Also likes Jeeps and Motocross.
Tried my hand at pedal building and I’m hooked. My wife did the painting of my (recently deceased) kitty cat and all of the labels and logos on them. The Boost pedal is a combo of a 33 and a TC Pre. The Whiskey Throttle is a BE-OD and Dirty Shirley combo. The Fat Fat Fuzz is just a FuzzFace type clone. The white one is a EQD Life Pedal clone.
Just added this over the weekend.
Bottom is attached with magnets, sweeper is made out of duct tape. Gave it it's first run early this week, worked great but when it got really low, the duct tape bristles were too stiff and the bottom wanted to start coming loose. Still a good design though, I think the bristles less stiff or knobs on hold-downs being shorter and I'd be fine.
Here's a link to my thingiverse file.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4751683
Also made my first cuts in the new shop with the new rig. This is a piece of Douglas Fir I got from demolishing a porch at my parents house. It's from 1910 at the most recent and 1870s at the earliest.
Last edited:
Omzig
Well-Known Member
Wow love that DF body very cool are you going to oil it and keep the texture or burry it in poly/clear gloss?
Nice boot setup but i found after making a few myself that it's much better to mount the boot to the static C-beam plate and allow the sindle/router Z axis to move inside the brush head, that way you can set the brush to always be a consistant hight and the suction is much better, just make a few plates with different lenght brushes.
Nice boot setup but i found after making a few myself that it's much better to mount the boot to the static C-beam plate and allow the sindle/router Z axis to move inside the brush head, that way you can set the brush to always be a consistant hight and the suction is much better, just make a few plates with different lenght brushes.
Good to know. I made my knobs a little oversized because I've had bad experiences with undersized knobs being rough on my fingers when tightening stuff down like my spool clamps. I have more than enough leverage to overtighten these so I'm gonna shrink then down for my next few cuts.
If I'm still getting the boot coming loose, I'll switch to a design like you're describing. I was trying to make something I could test without unscrewing any of my plate screws/bolts but being pretty happy with the results, I'm definitely more open to a more permanent setup.
Haven't decided what I'm using on the body yet. I mean, it sat outside in upstate NY (0 degrees to 90+ in the summer) over dirt with the weight of a house on it for 100 years, so I'm not super worried about how it handles environment too too much. Whatever maintains the look and provides some protection really but no clue on what yet.
Omzig
Well-Known Member
Good to know. I made my knobs a little oversized because I've had bad experiences with undersized knobs being rough on my fingers when tightening stuff down like my spool clamps. I have more than enough leverage to overtighten these so I'm gonna shrink then down for my next few cuts.
If I'm still getting the boot coming loose, I'll switch to a design like you're describing. I was trying to make something I could test without unscrewing any of my plate screws/bolts but being pretty happy with the results, I'm definitely more open to a more permanent setup.
Haven't decided what I'm using on the body yet. I mean, it sat outside in upstate NY (0 degrees to 90+ in the summer) over dirt with the weight of a house on it for 100 years, so I'm not super worried about how it handles environment too too much. Whatever maintains the look and provides some protection really but no clue on what yet.
Very Cool id lock all that history in there with a nice clear high gloss...but high gloss 80's guitars are my thing so
& If you looking for a good solution to get a boot on and off and being able to alter it to any job surface id say just look at cnc'ing & 3d printing up your own Suckit style boot...id buy one but at the same cost as a spindle i think i know where my moneys going first
Deegatron
Well-Known Member
Finally finally finally working on another build for me.
I've decided I need a sev… so here it is.
Mahogany body. neck will be padauk and wenge.
I've decided I need a sev… so here it is.
Mahogany body. neck will be padauk and wenge.
Omzig
Well-Known Member
Good man welcome back
Im kinda stuck finishing up older builds and modding some stuff till i can get my water spindle ordered and setup (had someone bitching about the routers noise/pitch) might be good for me to get some shit finished and make room in the shop for more "project" First up Stripping my HS RG dayglow mohog body...because it seems i cant follow my own advise on paint not being filler
youngthrasher9
Ur Mom Is Too Much Gain
I had some western cedar and roofing screws laying around so I built myself a redneck fredman clip!
thebeesknees22
SS.org Regular
I tried stipping the paint and staining an old mexican strat for the first time. I totally bombed.....
....gonna have to strip it all off again and redo it at some point lol
Good lessons learned though!
....gonna have to strip it all off again and redo it at some point lol
Good lessons learned though!
thebeesknees22
SS.org Regular
ok so on this strat lol
I ordered a hipshot 6 string/6 screw bridge. I measure the screw spacing/width etc.. all good. I slap it on, and it looks nice! Perfect fit....or so I thought. .. lol..... the saddles are way low for the neck.
I've shimmed the bridge a good 1/4" higher and it's ok now. I'll have to take it down just a hair to really be in a nice spot but lol... this went from looking nice to looking real ghetto quick ha
I probably lost more height than I realized when I stripped that thick layer of paint off plus sanding it down. ...but whatever! It works. ...sort of. lol
I ordered a hipshot 6 string/6 screw bridge. I measure the screw spacing/width etc.. all good. I slap it on, and it looks nice! Perfect fit....or so I thought. .. lol..... the saddles are way low for the neck.
I've shimmed the bridge a good 1/4" higher and it's ok now. I'll have to take it down just a hair to really be in a nice spot but lol... this went from looking nice to looking real ghetto quick ha
I probably lost more height than I realized when I stripped that thick layer of paint off plus sanding it down. ...but whatever! It works. ...sort of. lol
Spicypickles
Sweeps & Mops
Shim the neck instead, or get the thicker baseplate version
Omzig
Well-Known Member
Humm got any pic's & how much heel/neck do you have exposed above the body line? if its a few MM id look at routing the neck pocket out a little to drop it level with the new bridge.
thebeesknees22
SS.org Regular
Lol you guys will probably find my fix hilarious, but here you go:
Don't mind the finish. It was my first attempt at doing a vintagey looking thing. I'll have to strip it and redo it when I get a proper space/tools to do it for real. (couldn't get my little compressor to spray so i only got one super thin coat of satin finish on it.)
Anywho, you'll see from the pics that if i drop the bridge down to be flush with the body then it's way way short. I've thought about routing the neck pocket like you mentioned @Omzig I'm not sure I want to bother with it right now though until I get a proper space to do it. (doing major work like that in my apartment was not ...a great idea when i stripped the paint off this to begin with hahaha ...so much sawdust...everywhere...hahah)
I'm not sure if anyone makes a neck with a thinner neck joint, but if I do a new neck, that would probably cost more than the original guitar so ...eh. ...meh.
Anyway like I said, this is a pretty ghetto fix for now. But it works surprisingly well for as awful as it looks lol
You see it's a BIG gap. I'm looking at needing to route like 1/4" off of it.
Don't mind the finish. It was my first attempt at doing a vintagey looking thing. I'll have to strip it and redo it when I get a proper space/tools to do it for real. (couldn't get my little compressor to spray so i only got one super thin coat of satin finish on it.)
Anywho, you'll see from the pics that if i drop the bridge down to be flush with the body then it's way way short. I've thought about routing the neck pocket like you mentioned @Omzig I'm not sure I want to bother with it right now though until I get a proper space to do it. (doing major work like that in my apartment was not ...a great idea when i stripped the paint off this to begin with hahaha ...so much sawdust...everywhere...hahah)
I'm not sure if anyone makes a neck with a thinner neck joint, but if I do a new neck, that would probably cost more than the original guitar so ...eh. ...meh.
Anyway like I said, this is a pretty ghetto fix for now. But it works surprisingly well for as awful as it looks lol
You see it's a BIG gap. I'm looking at needing to route like 1/4" off of it.
Omzig
Well-Known Member
If i was doing this id look at splitting the dif and take 1/8 from both the neck heel and the pocket, you have plenty of meat in both, i can understand not wanting to make a mess in an apartment, see if there is a maker space you could visit to do the work+use the tools might cost a few $'s but better that buying tools you won't need again or paying someone else (a lot more) to do the work for you? GL & finish looks fine btw, ive seen ppl pay crazy money to get the same "reliced" look.
thebeesknees22
SS.org Regular
Lol yeah I'm not paying anyone to do stuff to this guitar. This one is just for practicing so I'm not too worried about it.
Yeah, I think I'll wait until I can get a proper space to work in and then do what you said, and split the difference. I'll probably do another practice run at finishing too while I'm at it since this one came out a little bit darker blue than I meant for it to. It sounds fine though as is even though it looks janky. My ghetto fix miiiight be affecting the sustain a bit, but I have guitars that are worse for that.
The lace sensor red/silver/blue's are fun. It's the first time I've ever used them. They're like ..instant grunge lol
Yeah, I think I'll wait until I can get a proper space to work in and then do what you said, and split the difference. I'll probably do another practice run at finishing too while I'm at it since this one came out a little bit darker blue than I meant for it to. It sounds fine though as is even though it looks janky. My ghetto fix miiiight be affecting the sustain a bit, but I have guitars that are worse for that.
The lace sensor red/silver/blue's are fun. It's the first time I've ever used them. They're like ..instant grunge lol
