Spec sheet nerds - why isn't this LTD M-1000 deluxe flying off the racks?

[NoodleFace]

Special edition? I think it's the same deal as with Schecter - stainless steel screws. Schecter markets it as 1500 (wow, 500 more than 1000, that's gotta be pretty good).

Yeah that was my guess, couldn't find it anywhere.

Thanks @spudmonkey

 

[diogoguitar]

I hope they make it in lefty. What's so special about stainless steel screws? Aren't these just to lock the strings?

 

[HeHasTheJazzHands]

It's not flying off shelves, because it's not on any shelves. Every one of my usual haunts still has it for pre-order only.

I legitimately think the only 2022 guitar that's made it out so far is the camo Snakebyte.

 

[TheBolivianSniper]

I hope they make it in lefty. What's so special about stainless steel screws? Aren't these just to lock the strings?

they won't strip out as easily or get grooves in them, plus I think the fine tuners and the string blocks? are stainless steel

I know the 1500 has altered knife edges or something so it feels a lot different than a regular 1000 so the 1000SE might just have stainless parts with the OG mechanism

 

[Adieu]

I do like the alder thing though. We need more alder superstrats.

 

[eaeolian]

Blade switches. Why do companies insist on putting blade switches on 2H guitars?

 

[eaeolian]

they won't strip out as easily or get grooves in them, plus I think the fine tuners and the string blocks? are stainless steel

I know the 1500 has altered knife edges or something so it feels a lot different than a regular 1000 so the 1000SE might just have stainless parts with the OG mechanism

They corrode less, which is a problem with the original spec.

 

[Dark Aegis]

they won't strip out as easily or get grooves in them, plus I think the fine tuners and the string blocks? are stainless steel

I know the 1500 has altered knife edges or something so it feels a lot different than a regular 1000 so the 1000SE might just have stainless parts with the OG mechanism

They’re more prone to stripping, stainless is usually a softer steel. The benefit is corrosion resistance.

 

[JimF]

They’re more prone to stripping, stainless is usually a softer steel. The benefit is corrosion resistance.

Beat me to it!

 

[dspellman]

Because it's as though the vol knob and the bridge pickup have separation anxiety.

I like the volume knob where that one has it. In fact, because I was turning a volume knob into a Master Volume on a Les Paul, I actually had it moved to that position from where it usually lives. The Tone knob (now a Master Tone) moved into the old volume location and the leftover hole houses a Buckethead-style kill switch.

The location is handy for pinky swells, etc.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Blade switches. Why do companies insist on putting blade switches on 2H guitars?

Because no one wants your shitty toggles, Mike.

 

[Ron Head]

It looks nice but what trem is that? What's the SE stand for? I thought the 1500 was the black one with chrome

The one on the Loomis 7 is a genuin 1500 , not available retail though , and it is different on the armholder ( this one is the 'wobly' screw on/off where the Loomis/1500 has a push-in arm )

 

[dspellman]

Personally I'm trying to avoid ebony fretboards since I live in a cold climate and they're noticeably less stable than rosewood. Ebony is really overrated. It looks better on black guitars than rosewood and it's easier to clean but that's really it.

I also have no interest in getting a guitar preloaded with Fishman Fluence Moderns or with a wider nut width than the usual ESP spec.

I do like the compound radius though.


Stainless steel frets on LTDs is fairly new, as is the compound radius. ESP/E-ii doesn't even offer them. Also this has a significantly wider nut than the usual ESP/LTD necks. 3 major "unusual" specs

1. I've got over 50 guitars, the majority of them with ebony fretboards (a personal preference) and I have no idea what you're talking about regarding stability. One of the guitars is a 1939 Epiphone Emperor, several are mid-50's Les Pauls, etc. I've had no issues regarding stability, cracking, etc. I think I got spoiled with ebony fretboards because it was only available on the premium levels of guitars when I first started playing them. Rosewood was reserved for beginner and middle-of-the-line guitars. It's one of the reasons that , while I like my 335s (rosewood and plastic inlays), I've always wanted a 355 (ebony and real MOP inlays).

2. The nut seems to be a standard 1 11/16ths" nut width. I think the only wider nut that Floyd Rose offers is a 1 3/4" nut.

3. A compound radius is generally a slightly more comfortable option to the radius that's somewhere in the middle of the compound's range. So this one would be comparable to a 14" radius, which is fairly standard for Asian sourced guitars. I have several compound radius fretboard guitars, and honestly, I really don't notice a significant difference. And that's a good thing.

4. Stainless frets are appearing on a very wide range of guitars these days, including some in the $400 levels. They'll eventually become standard, I think, and less of a marketing bullet point than they are now. They do wear longer, they don't corrode, and they're pretty slick to play.

 

[bigcupholder]

1. I've got over 50 guitars, the majority of them with ebony fretboards (a personal preference) and I have no idea what you're talking about regarding stability. One of the guitars is a 1939 Epiphone Emperor, several are mid-50's Les Pauls, etc. I've had no issues regarding stability, cracking, etc. I think I got spoiled with ebony fretboards because it was only available on the premium levels of guitars when I first started playing them. Rosewood was reserved for beginner and middle-of-the-line guitars. It's one of the reasons that , while I like my 335s (rosewood and plastic inlays), I've always wanted a 355 (ebony and real MOP inlays).

2. The nut seems to be a standard 1 11/16ths" nut width. I think the only wider nut that Floyd Rose offers is a 1 3/4" nut.

3. A compound radius is generally a slightly more comfortable option to the radius that's somewhere in the middle of the compound's range. So this one would be comparable to a 14" radius, which is fairly standard for Asian sourced guitars. I have several compound radius fretboard guitars, and honestly, I really don't notice a significant difference. And that's a good thing.

4. Stainless frets are appearing on a very wide range of guitars these days, including some in the $400 levels. They'll eventually become standard, I think, and less of a marketing bullet point than they are now. They do wear longer, they don't corrode, and they're pretty slick to play.

It really depends where you live, both in terms of climate and how poorly insulated your house is - I'm in Canada in a house that's >150 years old. Luckily I haven't had any ebony fretboards crack, but I run two humidifiers 24/7 all winter. My experience has been limited to some fret sprout and those guitars needing more truss rod adjustments than the others. All else being equal, I'd choose rosewood over ebony every time, but I realize I'm likely in the minority on this.

I don't disagree otherwise. I was only pointing out that they're new specs for ESP/LTD (or in the case of SS frets, relatively new, having started last year).

 

[diogoguitar]

1. I've got over 50 guitars, the majority of them with ebony fretboards (a personal preference) and I have no idea what you're talking about regarding stability. One of the guitars is a 1939 Epiphone Emperor, several are mid-50's Les Pauls, etc. I've had no issues regarding stability, cracking, etc. I think I got spoiled with ebony fretboards because it was only available on the premium levels of guitars when I first started playing them. Rosewood was reserved for beginner and middle-of-the-line guitars. It's one of the reasons that , while I like my 335s (rosewood and plastic inlays), I've always wanted a 355 (ebony and real MOP inlays).

2. The nut seems to be a standard 1 11/16ths" nut width. I think the only wider nut that Floyd Rose offers is a 1 3/4" nut.

3. A compound radius is generally a slightly more comfortable option to the radius that's somewhere in the middle of the compound's range. So this one would be comparable to a 14" radius, which is fairly standard for Asian sourced guitars. I have several compound radius fretboard guitars, and honestly, I really don't notice a significant difference. And that's a good thing.

4. Stainless frets are appearing on a very wide range of guitars these days, including some in the $400 levels. They'll eventually become standard, I think, and less of a marketing bullet point than they are now. They do wear longer, they don't corrode, and they're pretty slick to play.

100%, I think these features should be standard in the E-II lineup... or at least they should release one limited edition with these. ESP has this one-size-fits-all mentality... well made guitars, but to me it's always a compromise to take their standard specs (12" fb radius, nickel freds, R2 nut, and not-so-thin U shape neck)

 

[Estilo]

I like the volume knob where that one has it. In fact, because I was turning a volume knob into a Master Volume on a Les Paul, I actually had it moved to that position from where it usually lives. The Tone knob (now a Master Tone) moved into the old volume location and the leftover hole houses a Buckethead-style kill switch.

The location is handy for pinky swells, etc.

Thanks for your input, but I gotta say, I don't think very many people actually do pinky swells these days. And for those that like the vol knob close to the bridge/bridge pickup, you don't have a lack of options. Virtually every traditional strat suits your needs. Whereas the other camp who appreciate the vol knob being a distance away can't really say with our options.

I like the way modernisation is going with Schecter NJs and Musicman Silohuettes and Jackson Juggernauts are going with the knob being not far but not close that it can be accidentally hit.

 

[diogoguitar]

Thanks for your input, but I gotta say, I don't think very many people actually do pinky swells these days. And for those that like the vol knob close to the bridge/bridge pickup, you don't have a lack of options. Virtually every traditional strat suits your needs. Whereas the other camp who appreciate the vol knob being a distance away can't really say with our options.

I like the way modernisation is going with Schecter NJs and Musicman Silohuettes and Jackson Juggernauts are going with the knob being not far but not close that it can be accidentally hit.

Ha.. I hadn't noticed the volume knob position... good catch
Even where it is now there is a risk of bothering me slightly... my ibanez has it in about that location and I notice the space between my picking fingers 2 and 3 nearly touch the volume knob.... just enough clearance to not bother me.
I had an ESP horizon that nearly got in the way, but it had a recessed volume knob just enough to not bother me. Sorry I'm picky hahaha

 

[GustavoGP]

I will eventually buy this axe, like it a lot, but thinking of swapping those fishmans with blackened black winters....

 

[DarthV]

Pretty much any decently spec/built guitar will fly off the shelves... if they made it to dealers in the first place!

 

[bzhang9]

those specs arent that special anymore, its in MIJ ibanez territory with SS frets, worse trem, more "metal" pickups, likely worse neck/fret work, I'd take the better trem and fretwork any day