Steinberger GM Thread!

[55699]

Hi Bernd,

Correct me If I'm wrong. So are you saying this is an authentic Steiny?
It's just a bit pricy that's all?
You could see 'em 3 holes in the neck only pic. It's taken kinda sideways so you just need to look closer.
BTW I don't see the GM7SA for sale in Boston you've mentioned earlier..Is it sold?

Thanks.

 

[Be_eM]

Correct me If I'm wrong. So are you saying this is an authentic Steiny?
It's just a bit pricy that's all?

Yep. Nothing wrong with it, and the price could even find a buyer… I've seen GRs sell for more, however, I don't always understand what's happening on ebay

You could see 'em 3 holes in the neck only pic. It's taken kinda sideways so you just need to look closer.

Ah, OK… these holes belong there, all Moses necks have them. Two for mounting the headpiece, one for truss rod access.

BTW I don't see the GM7SA for sale in Boston you've mentioned earlier..Is it sold?

You should probably look at the dates of the postings you're referring to

I've seen that guitar on ebay again afterwards, but way too expensive. He wanted $2,200 for it. I have no idea if it's sold meanwhile.

Bernd

 

[55699]

Hi Bernd,

One more quick question...
Paramount Guitars: Instrument detail, Steinberger GR-4R
Why is the neck on this kinda like the ZT-3? I'm referring to the top part where the ball end sits. It looks like it has a longer saddle and the back of it isn't round off.

Thanks.

 

[Be_eM]

Why is the neck on this kinda like the ZT-3? I'm referring to the top part where the ball end sits. It looks like it has a longer saddle and the back of it isn't round off.

That's a Moses neck with the standard headpiece and an additional string adapter mounted on top. So the guy can use standard (single ball end) strings with it. The whole headpiece/string adapter combination could also be replaced by the JCustom combined headpiece (similar to the ZT3 headpiece).

(edit: wrong neck&#8230

Bernd

 

[GuitarSteve]

Hello, new to the forum. Steiny lover but not an owner yet. I was considering getting a Spirit by steinberger but after reading through this thread and other it seems most steiny lovers don't even consider that model to be a real berger. So I decided to go with something a bit higher end such as the GM.

I have noticed there are some fakes out there and some models that have been stripped and refitted with cheaper parts courtesy of he who shall not be named.

I was just wondering, are there some tell tell signs of the stripped or fake models.
I hope I could tell the difference between a fake and a real McCoy but it is not like that model is common.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Be_eM]

So I decided to go with something a bit higher end such as the GM.

I have noticed there are some fakes out there and some models that have been stripped and refitted with cheaper parts courtesy of he who shall not be named.

Getting a GM is a good decision, and asking for the fake indicators is a wise decision

Most fakes - especially those from the (un)named source - are easy to identify:

• There never was a model named "GM-xR", which designates a GM body (with a TransTrem or S-Trem routing) and an R-Trem. So if you see an auction or ad that contains "GM" and "R" on the same page, don't buy.
• Completely original Steinies have a serial number on the neck (or body, on L types). This serial should match the timeframe in which the guitar was most likely built. Without further research it's often hard to confirm the match of serial number and model type, but - for example - it's a non matching pair if you have a GM with binding that has a serial in the low 100's (N0xxx) or a Nashville serial (TNxxxxx). Some guitars have the neck replaced (by a newer original neck or a Moses neck), and this must not be bad by definition. However, if you see a body with a routed truss rod access from the body/pickup side, don't buy, it's "him" again.
• The STEINBERGER logos on "his" guitars are often crooked, not parallel to the center axis of the guitar/neck. Many appear to be too close to the lower body borders.
• Sometimes the pickup and switch positions tell their own stories. Obviously a lot of early Steinie owners have converted their GM-1 and GM-5 guitars to a GM-2. You can indentify them by the distance of the bridge pickup to the bridge, and (sometimes) by the switch position.

An example for a guitar I'd not buy is right now here. The third pic clearly shows the TransTrem routing, which is not appropriately filled by the Hohner R-Trem. Body and neck look original (as far as I can tell), but the serial would give more information.


Bernd

 

[GuitarSteve]

Thanx, I appreciate the info. I am really looking for a new steiny and wanted to make sure I know what I am buying., I guess a GM or a GR. It is hard to find the differences and accurate price points for both models. So I am doing research here and on other places.
All I know is the GM is a prefered model and the GR, is more for those wil a more limited budget.
They also have different tremelo systems...IIRC.

I don't mind paying for a good guitar but I want to make sure I am getting a good guitar and a REAL steinberger.

You guys really have some amazing instruments...I would love to have almost any of them.

Edit, that page you linked to doesn't show up.
Again, I appreciate you taking the time to answer some questions.

 

[MFB]

All I know is the GM is a prefered model and the GR, is more for those wil a more limited budget. They also have different tremelo systems...IIRC.

The GMs have a Trans-Trem or S trem while the GRs have the - surprise - R trem! I think most of the GMs had a H/H or H/S/H setup while only some and the GR4s had H/S/S. I had a GR4 for a while and it was a great guitar and if you're like me and hate tremolos then locking it down makes the difference null. The neck is still the same composite neck with 24 frets.

 

[Be_eM]

Edit, that page you linked to doesn't show up.

Hmmm… that was just an ebay link. Try this one.

Regarding the differences between a GM and a GR: MFB said it all. Almost

The pickup configuration is H-S-S on all GRs (which makes them a GR-4), while GMs came as GM-1 (H), GM-2 (H-H), GM-3 (S-S-S, rare), GM-4 (H-S-S), GM-5 (H-S), GM-7 (H-S-H). And: GMs almost exclusively came with active EMGs, while GRs only came with passive pickups (Seymour Duncan).

The bodies are also different, while most GMs had maple or alder bodies, most GRs had a mahogany body.

How you decide depends on the way you're going to use a trem. A TransTrem is an expensive toy, for the transposing function to work the trem needs to be in a good condition. If you need a trem just for the usual whammy effects, you'd better take an S-Trem or an R-Trem. The stability of an S-Trem is way better than that of an R-Trem, so this would be my choice. However, if an R-Trem fails, you may be able to easily get replacement parts (as it's still built and used on current Hohner guitars and Spirits). Getting S-Trem parts is way more difficult. But usually they don't break (although it may happen with any trem), so if you've got an S-Trem and take good care of it, it should work forever. The bearings are standardized replacement parts you can buy anywhere.

You also could install a fixed bridge on any Steinie, if you don't use trems at all.

Bernd

 

[GuitarSteve]

Hmmm… that was just an ebay link. Try this one.

Regarding the differences between a GM and a GR: MFB said it all. Almost

The pickup configuration is H-S-S on all GRs (which makes them a GR-4), while GMs came as GM-1 (H), GM-2 (H-H), GM-3 (S-S-S, rare), GM-4 (H-S-S), GM-5 (H-S), GM-7 (H-S-H). And: GMs almost exclusively came with active EMGs, while GRs only came with passive pickups (Seymour Duncan).

The bodies are also different, while most GMs had maple or alder bodies, most GRs had a mahogany body.

How you decide depends on the way you're going to use a trem. A TransTrem is an expensive toy, for the transposing function to work the trem needs to be in a good condition. If you need a trem just for the usual whammy effects, you'd better take an S-Trem or an R-Trem. The stability of an S-Trem is way better than that of an R-Trem, so this would be my choice. However, if an R-Trem fails, you may be able to easily get replacement parts (as it's still built and used on current Hohner guitars and Spirits). Getting S-Trem parts is way more difficult. But usually they don't break (although it may happen with any trem), so if you've got an S-Trem and take good care of it, it should work forever. The bearings are standardized replacement parts you can buy anywhere.

You also could install a fixed bridge on any Steinie, if you don't use trems at all.

Bernd

I am not that set on a certain trem. Just prefer a quality unit. S or R trem is fine if it helps keep price more reasonable. I prefer the H-S-H configurations, so I guess that is a GM-7 according to your information. That being said, I don't think I would say no to the other configurations also!
Did any of the the GM 7 variations come with a S-Trem?

I figured there was no point wasting my money and time on a spirit or a new model. I like the older models so that is what I want.

Now just to find one...which seems to be the hard part.

 

[Be_eM]

I prefer the H-S-H configurations, so I guess that is a GM-7 according to your information. That being said, I don't think I would say no to the other configurations also!
Did any of the the GM 7 variations come with a S-Trem?

Yes, the GM-7S and GM-7SA were regular production models (introduced in 1991, as far as I know), only available in the un-bound version.

Bernd

 

[GuitarSteve]

OK, did any of them come stock with a R-trem?
I appreciate your insights.

 

[Be_eM]

OK, did any of them come stock with a R-trem?
I appreciate your insights.

No. Any GM with an R-Trem is an E.R. creature (or some other owner's modification). Only the GR came with an R-Trem (and the Spirits of course).

 

[JamesM]

I will own a GM-5 one day!

 

[MFB]

And: GMs almost exclusively came with active EMGs, while GRs only came with passive pickups (Seymour Duncan).

The bodies are also different, while most GMs had maple or alder bodies, most GRs had a mahogany body.

Ah, I thought the EMG thing was just the user's swapping out the original pickups for their preferred which happened to be EMGs but I guess not. At least I know the new Steinys (besides the ZT-3) come with EMGs!

As for the body wood, I never would've guessed that given the weight of my GR but it didn't help that I had assumed it was due to a graphite neck + lack of headstock combo

 

[Be_eM]

Ah, I thought the EMG thing was just the user's swapping out the original pickups for their preferred which happened to be EMGs but I guess not.

Actually Steinberger and EMG have been working very closely together. I own a GL2 prototype, which contains an EMG 60 prototype…

 

[55699]

I've noticed for the unbound GMs there are some with or without the battery compartment. But I thought all the GMs with flame or quilt top are from the musicyo era which comes with the batt. compartment. Also the ones without the batt. compartment usually has a 5 bolt neck joint too. Could someone fill me in?
Thx!!

 

[Be_eM]

I've noticed for the unbound GMs there are some with or without the battery compartment. But I thought all the GMs with flame or quilt top are from the musicyo era which comes with the batt. compartment. Also the ones without the batt. compartment usually has a 5 bolt neck joint too. Could someone fill me in?

Unbound GMs have been made during the late Newburgh era (starting in 1991, solid colors only), the complete Nashville era, and the Music Yo era. The flamed and quilted tops were made during the Nashville and MY era, and yes, those without the battery compartment had a 5-bolt neck and were made in Nashville.

Bernd

 

[Börje]

Does anyone have a username to a Musicradar.com since i cannot make an username there because the "register" link redirects me to frontpage of this site. I found there a Steinberger GM7SA for cheap price and i would like to contact the seller if it is still for sale. I have contacted maintenance about this problem but they havent yet ansvered.

thank you

 

[Goatchrist]

This isn't 100% on topic, but I think this is the best thread to ask this, since there are a lot of GMs with TTs in it.
I've got a question towards the TransTrem II.
When you have it on B-standard(3 steps down), are the strings very loose?
I'm imaging it must be horrible to play since it's recommended to use 0.009 or 0.010 string sets.

I'd love to buy a Steiny, it would be great if I could use it for my deathmetal band too, we play in B-standard so it would be the perfect instrument to switch in between bands and genres.

Thanks for your help buddies!
EDIT: Question has been answered privatly by Bernd. Thank you.