Steinberger GM Thread!

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It's too bad Gibson bought Steinberger. I have a hunch that if FMIC bought the company, it'd be better, but who knows. I was in a local music shop recently during lunch and picked up a jem for the first time. I didn't plug it in, but I just wanted to see how it played. The neck shape didn't jive with me at all and scalloped frets are over-rated in my opinion. I saw a steinberger in the corner and had never played one of those before either. I didn't know what model it was, but I knew it wasn't the oar shape, so I was interested in it. I played it and it felt awesome! I love the neck shape and the overall feel of the instrument. I did some research and found out it is a GR-4 circa 91. Of course this is all subjective, but I figured the much more expensive jem would have blown the steiny out of the water as far as playability was concerned. I asked how much it was out of curiosity and it was more than I could afford at the time. The salesman informed me they have layaway... curses! If that guitar is for sale in a couple months I'm going to buy it for sure. I'd buy it tomorrow if I wasn't already buying an old kramer. Darned ol' GAS :wallbash:
 

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simeonharris

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just saw this - 1992 Steinberger GM-6S GM6S Guitar Headless USA | eBay

i don't want to cast any doubt on it's authenticity, but the distance between the humbucker and the bridge seems unusually large to me... and the bottom E string seems to be a long way from the edge of the fingerboard as well (although it might just be the angle the photograph was taken from)
 

Be_eM

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just saw this - 1992 Steinberger GM-6S GM6S Guitar Headless USA | eBay

i don't want to cast any doubt on it's authenticity, but the distance between the humbucker and the bridge seems unusually large to me...

Well, then it's up to me to do that. While a GM-6 exists in theory (the spec exists), I'm not aware of one actually being manufactured. This configuration (afaik) only was used on Brett Garsed's Steinberger GS.

The distance of the bridge humbucker is that of a GM-1 and GM-5. Given the toggle switch position which does NOT match that of a GM-5, I'd think this has been a GM-1 (coming without any switch), which has been modified to the GM-6 configuration. Also the routing for the neck SC seems too big, the standard routings for single coils (e.g. on a GM-4) are much smaller. If that actually WAS an original GM-6, it would belong to Don Greenwald's inventory and would be offered on ebay for at least $4,999 :)

Bernd
 

blastomorpha

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Hi everyone, this my first post here.
I am really tempted to mary this little girl here

pic1 pic2 pic3

Serial is NI3932, or better N13932, and you can find her here
Confirmed Steinberger Serials

Conditions are quite good I think, just a little spot where the paint is gone above the neck pu (maybe you can see in pic3) and few minor scratches.
Frets seem new to me, neck is just a little dirty.

Never had a Steinberger nor tried before yesterday, but I think I'll love that neck and the TransTrem, so smooth compared to the other floating bridges I knew! Unfortunatly the current owner hasn't set it right to change the tuning but he installed the string adaptor (now it mounts 0.09 GHS if I remember right).

I'm asked 1000€ which I think is a fair price, but have few doubts.
First one: will I be able to set the bridge all by my own or is it hard? I mean, harder than setting the springs for an Ibanez Edge?
Second one: it has passive Seymour Duncan pu, and I played it through a crappy Bosssomething and the distortion was crap. I'm going to play something like Cynic with it.
Third one: the owner has a ZT3 also, but is going to sell the GM4T which is a far superior guitar, as he said... well, this can mean nothing actually :)

What do you think?
Thanks for any advice.
 

Be_eM

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Hi everyone, this my first post here.
I am really tempted to mary this little girl here

pic1 pic2 pic3

Serial is NI3932, or better N13932, and you can find her here
Confirmed Steinberger Serials

Hi,

yes, I've checked and added the serial when I've first discovered the guitar on mercatino musicale :)

Never had a Steinberger nor tried before yesterday, but I think I'll love that neck and the TransTrem, so smooth compared to the other floating bridges I knew! Unfortunatly the current owner hasn't set it right to change the tuning but he installed the string adaptor (now it mounts 0.09 GHS if I remember right).

Transposing will not work when using the string adapter at the same time. This function requires using calibrated TT strings, available from LaBella and D'Addario. When using these strings, it's possible to set up the TT for transposing, and yes, when doing it for the first time it will take a while. But you'll get faster after that ;)

I'm asked 1000€ which I think is a fair price, but have few doubts.

The price is good. GMs with a TT usually go for 1.600 Euro at least. Especially in Italy there are a lot of GMs with (original) passive pickups, while the rest of the world mostly has GMs with EMGs. Don't let the other guitars on MM confuse you, about half of them are designated with the wrong model/type description and thus have wrong prices.

First one: will I be able to set the bridge all by my own or is it hard? I mean, harder than setting the springs for an Ibanez Edge?

I have no idea about the Ibanez Edge, so I cannot compare. It's not really "hard", it just requires you to understand what you're doing there, and it takes some time. And it may (in rare cases) fail due to a crappy pack of strings. Replacing them mostly solves it.

Second one: it has passive Seymour Duncan pu, and I played it through a crappy Bosssomething and the distortion was crap. I'm going to play something like Cynic with it.

When you buy it, it's your guitar, and you can "upgrade" whatever you want. But be aware that changing the original state of a Steinberger has an impact on its (resale) price. However, the price you buy it for is already great, so you won't lose anything.


Third one: the owner has a ZT3 also, but is going to sell the GM4T which is a far superior guitar, as he said... well, this can mean nothing actually :)

Hmmm… I'd also say the GM is somewhat superior to the ZT3, and has a big advantage: you may be able to get spare or replacement parts for a GM. There's absolutely nothing you can buy for a ZT3 with the TT3. So if the TT3 on your guitar fails, you'll have a hard time getting this fixed. However, it's not really about a "better/worse" comparison, as these are simply different guitars in most aspects.

Bernd
 

flint757

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Word on hard time with TT3 replacement parts. The adjustment screw on the 'jaw' for the low E string stripped on mine (shitty pot metal :rant:) and I emailed Gibson about it. They told me to go to allparts.com which obviously won't have what I need. So I emailed again asking for a part number or something and the dude hasn't responded at all. If they aren't going to help service them they should release the damn schematics already so others could start making parts for them. I work at a fvcking metal fabrication shop; I could make one faster than they respond. :lol: It's not a huge deal though, as I can just lower the string tension and turn it by hand however inconvenient it may be. :shrug:

On another note, I put medium gauge strings on it and it is in tune and intonated just fine. Not a calibrated set either. I can go through the 5 steps and it stay in tune and is properly intonated in the standard position. All I needed to do was adjust the jaw screws, saddles and truss rod. Maybe that is do to the TT3's redesign? :shrug:
 

Be_eM

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Word on hard time with TT3 replacement parts. The adjustment screw on the 'jaw' for the low E string stripped on mine (shitty pot metal :rant:) and I emailed Gibson about it. They told me to go to allparts.com …

Apparently Gibson never put any TT3 parts in stock (in contrast to some Synapse parts which they offer(ed). I assume if somebody had a TT3 problem during the warranty period, he simply got a new guitar. I've been behind those parts for years now, but here in Europe we're farther away from them than anybody. However, it doesn't seem to be better in USA either.

On another note, I put medium gauge strings on it and it is in tune and intonated just fine. Not a calibrated set either. I can go through the 5 steps and it stay in tune and is properly intonated in the standard position. All I needed to do was adjust the jaw screws, saddles and truss rod. Maybe that is do to the TT3's redesign? :shrug:

Setting up transposing on a TT3 is a little bit easier, because Ned has changed the transposing range. Now it's two half steps up and down. With a TT2 it was two full steps and a half step down, and one and a half step up. Much more difficult to control.

Bernd
 

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Apparently Gibson never put any TT3 parts in stock (in contrast to some Synapse parts which they offer(ed). I assume if somebody had a TT3 problem during the warranty period, he simply got a new guitar. I've been behind those parts for years now, but here in Europe we're farther away from them than anybody. However, it doesn't seem to be better in USA either.

That is absolutely retarded that they wouldn't stock spare parts. Mine I bought second hand so I'm SOL I suppose. All well...

I may take it apart at some point and see what kind of parts I'm looking at. If the piece that has stripped is somewhat generic I may be able to find a suitable replacement or fabricate something.

Can the TT3 be swapped with the TT2?

Setting up transposing on a TT3 is a little bit easier, because Ned has changed the transposing range. Now it's two half steps up and down. With a TT2 it was two full steps and a half step down, and one and a half step up. Much more difficult to control.

Yeah I imagine if I could lock mine much lower it'd be next to impossible for it to hold a good tuning. I'm just glad it worked otherwise I'd be out $20 dollars and some time. :lol:
 

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Transposing will not work when using the string adapter at the same time. This function requires using calibrated TT strings, available from LaBella and D'Addario. When using these strings, it's possible to set up the TT for transposing, and yes, when doing it for the first time it will take a while. But you'll get faster after that ;)

Thanks for the reply.
I hope that removing the adapter will be easy as I do want to be able to tranpose.
When trasposed, will the bridge work as in standard tuning? And as a guy already asked, aren't the string too floppy when we are tuned in C for example?

I have no idea about the Ibanez Edge, so I cannot compare. It's not really "hard", it just requires you to understand what you're doing there, and it takes some time. And it may (in rare cases) fail due to a crappy pack of strings. Replacing them mostly solves it.

Where can I find some good instructions about the bridge setting?

However, it's not really about a "better/worse" comparison, as these are simply different guitars in most aspects.

Just to know, which are these aspects you say?
 

Be_eM

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That is absolutely retarded ...

We're talking about Gibson owning Steinberger. What did you expect? ;)

I may take it apart at some point and see what kind of parts I'm looking at. If the piece that has stripped is somewhat generic I may be able to find a suitable replacement or fabricate something.

Once there is an increased demand, people will probably start providing the most critical parts. One of the problems: I've tried to get a spare TT3 just for understanding, taking it apart, taking dimensions and "re-engineer" that trem or parts of it. Impossible to get one. And I didn't want to disassemble my one and only ZT3, which is currently working fine.

Can the TT3 be swapped with the TT2?

No way. Totally different dimensions and principles.
 

flint757

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We're talking about Gibson owning Steinberger. What did you expect? ;)

Good point.

Once there is an increased demand, people will probably start providing the most critical parts. One of the problems: I've tried to get a spare TT3 just for understanding, taking it apart, taking dimensions and "re-engineer" that trem or parts of it. Impossible to get one. And I didn't want to disassemble my one and only ZT3, which is currently working fine.

Well they are discontinued so demand can't go up more than it has unless you mean more people having trouble with their guitars. I noticed how hard they are to get a hold of.

At the moment only the one screw is messed up on the bridge so that is about as far as I'll bother with disassembling.

No way. Totally different dimensions and principles.

Well damn. :lol:
 

Be_eM

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Thanks for the reply.
I hope that removing the adapter will be easy as I do want to be able to tranpose.

That's easy. The adapter is not mounted anywhere, it's just held by the tension of the strings. Remove the strings, open the screws on the adapter holding the upper end of the strings, that's it.

When trasposed, will the bridge work as in standard tuning? And as a guy already asked, aren't the string too floppy when we are tuned in C for example?

When locked in a transposed position, it's just like having a downtuned guitar with a fixed bridge. And yes, down to C makes strings very floppy. That's the way it is, so a transtrem guitar is not a perfect replacement for a regular downtuned guitar with extra heavy strings for that purpose. It's more "I can quickly change the pitch for a single song which would require another guitar otherwise".



Where can I find some good instructions about the bridge setting?

Here is all you need :)


Just to know, which are these aspects you say?

Composite neck vs. wooden neck with a carbon fiber channel, TT2 vs. TT3, (mostly) active EMGs, some with HazLabs EQ in various configurations vs. two passive Gibson humbuckers with passive tone control…

The ZT3 feels and sounds different, however, I also like it. I just wouldn't know how to compare those two guitars.

Bernd
 

Be_eM

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Well they are discontinued so demand can't go up more than it has unless you mean more people having trouble with their guitars.

Yep, that's what I mean. Right now most TT3s out there do what they're supposed to do. But – as you have noticed – there are some weak points using cheap or soft metals. They will need replacements one day. Most likely after the warranty period for the last batch is over ;)
 

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Can anyone compare T-Trem, S-Trem and Floyd Rose/Ibanez bridges about stiffness?
As I wrote earlier here, I tried ony the T-Trem and I was astonished by its smoothness, compared to the Edge installed on my RG550.

As I'm torn beetween two Steinberger, the one with the T-Trem I posted and another with S-Trem which I can not try before buy, I'd like to know if the two bridges feel similar, apart from the advanced features of T-Trem.
 

Be_eM

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As I'm torn beetween two Steinberger, the one with the T-Trem I posted and another with S-Trem which I can not try before buy, I'd like to know if the two bridges feel similar, apart from the advanced features of T-Trem.


Basically the S-Trem is a T-Trem without transposing. There may be minor differences due to the spring that's used, but these differences are also possible between two T-Trems. Spring length has varied over the time of production.

Both trems use roller bearings, the T-Trem has an angled axis due to the transposing feature, and the S-Trem has a straight axis. The locking mechanism is different (transposing arm on the TT, a lever on the back on the ST). That's it for the differences.
 

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About the bearings, I read that they wear quickly.
Is it hard to find the replacements and swap the old for the new ones?
 

Be_eM

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About the bearings, I read that they wear quickly.
Is it hard to find the replacements and swap the old for the new ones?


No, they aren't hard to find, those are standardized bearings and pins. In case you don't find them anywhere near you, you can even get them from me. I've stocked some high quality SKF bearings and stainless steel pins :)

Edit: they don't wear quickly. It's just that they have never been replaced on most Steinbergers you buy used, so you might have bearings that are up to 25 years old. In the beginning they've even used non-sealed versions.

Bernd
 

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If this has been brought up before, I apologize. I bought the GR-4 I mentioned above and plan on doing a demo and full-fledged NGD with it as soon as I get some new strings on it. I put 10-46s on their and they pull up on the bridge too much. Is there any way to put heavier strings on it for E-standard tuning without changing a trem spring or something? If not, I'll deal with it. I don't have a trem arm for it, so I play with the bridge locked and I don't like how light the strings feel with it locked.
 

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If this has been brought up before, I apologize. I bought the GR-4 I mentioned above and plan on doing a demo and full-fledged NGD with it as soon as I get some new strings on it. I put 10-46s on their and they pull up on the bridge too much. Is there any way to put heavier strings on it for E-standard tuning without changing a trem spring or something? If not, I'll deal with it. I don't have a trem arm for it, so I play with the bridge locked and I don't like how light the strings feel with it locked.

I'm interested also, as I like .10s or .11s on my guitars.
 
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