Tell me about EVM12L speakers

  • Thread starter Bearitone
  • Start date
  • This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.

mnemonic

Custom User Title
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
5,558
Reaction score
2,167
Location
Chester, UK
I had a 2x12 of the emi delta 12As (not pro) they were some of the best speakers ive used! Huge clear sound, perfect for modern metal.

These speakers are no joke. They are my go to speaker now.

Do you guys think the non-pro Delta 12A lacks high end at all or is dark?

Certainly is cheaper than the cast-frame versions like the Pro and EM12.
 

This site may earn a commission from merchant links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.

maggotspawn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
856
Reaction score
774
Location
Los Angeles, CA.
Do you guys think the non-pro Delta 12A lacks high end at all or is dark?

Certainly is cheaper than the cast-frame versions like the Pro and EM12.
I was jamming through mine with my JSX yesterday, no problem with a lack of high end. I do run an EQ in the loop, but don't find myself having to crank the high frequencies.
 

c7spheres

GuitArtist
Joined
Jan 13, 2017
Messages
4,760
Reaction score
4,419
Location
Arizona
Where can i find plans for those buzzbomb 212 cabs? You’re saying you enjoy the Force’s in that 212 more than the Vector cab with a crossover and dedicated sub?
- I just want to make sure we're talking about the same thing. I'm talking about the Vector SL powered sub cabinet that I used with 4x12 on top Not sure if there's other Vector cab's out there.
- I just made my own plans for my cabs. It's been about 15 years since I made them so I'm not sure if I still have them or not, but if I can find a copy I'll let you know and you can have them, otherwise I can just measure them again for you and give the basic dims. They are slightly bigger than the EarCandy cabs by an inch or two.
- I do like them more than the Vector's, The Vectors were nice in a PA sorta way, but didn't really respond how I wanted them to. They respond like what they are, a solid state amp. They responded basically like a PA instead of a guitar amp/cab. And the amp was a pretty weak one for a sub frequency driver. They couldn't keep up with my top cabs unless I turned them down. Additionally, the crossover frequency wasn't adjustable and so I couldn't dial it in how I wanted. I would much rather use a 18" folded horn sub with a more powerful amp and adjustable cross over than a Vector, for the money. I thought the Vector sounded great, but it really needs an adjustable crossover and more power. They sound great, at lower volumes, but They don't feel right to me. Plus the tapping the signal off your power amp seems to do something to the response as well. THey just weren't for me. I used them for about a year and a half. I'm not sure if there's been any designs changes since, cause it has been 15 years.
- Keep in mind I tune my 7 string to Bb standard, so I'm right around the Ev's res frequency too. If you tune lower then I don't know how that would translate. What I do know is I get tube amp response, more volume, no disconnect in feel of the low end and all the other stuff I mentioned. That being said It depends what your going for. I play everything from ambient space jams to heavy distorted slower stuff. My freind had the 15" version of the force in his Mesa bass cab. It sounded great, but as an above member said, it did have a bit of trouble with transients. It was when he did slap.
 

Soya

Poor person
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
1,230
Reaction score
1,576
Location
Illinois
I had zero problems. Sounded like it was meant for guitar!
Don't take this the wrong way, but did it sound good for super brutal death metal, or like more normal guitar playing?
 

Meeotch

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
467
Reaction score
418
Location
Wyoming
I own a pair of the EVM12L Black Labels, a vintage EVM12L, and a WGS12L.

It is certainly true that the high and low end is extended compared to traditional guitar speakers. The mids of these speakers are kinda love/hate I would say. Very transparent, sometimes too much so. So far, I have only been able to play these speakers by themselves in a 1x12 Glaswerks Thiele cab, and for this application I generally prefer more color from a speaker.

I need to spend more time with an EQ pedal, but so far even with extensive EQ these speakers have their own sound that I am still trying to figure out. Definitely high quality and worth trying, even for the price IMO. My next step is to load a pair into a 2x12 for sure.
 

Gmork

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
2,833
Reaction score
2,551
Location
B.C. Canada
Don't take this the wrong way, but did it sound good for super brutal death metal, or like more normal guitar playing?
Both! I mostly play super brutal crap BUT every now and again i like playing clean reverby type stuff. Ambient spacey junk. Maybe not "normal" but Everything i ever played sounded seriously great
 

oneblackened

Tube Amp Dork
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
1,434
Reaction score
778
Location
Boston, MA
Super efficient (100dB and no presence peak to fuck with that measurement like a V30 does), almost goofy power handling (you will basically never get one of these to distort, considering one of them can handle 200 watts RMS). Way less color than your average Celestion or Eminence. As for the cost... Cast frame, enormous magnet, made in the USA, and it has a reputation.
 

c7spheres

GuitArtist
Joined
Jan 13, 2017
Messages
4,760
Reaction score
4,419
Location
Arizona
Where can i find plans for those buzzbomb 212 cabs? You’re saying you enjoy the Force’s in that 212 more than the Vector cab with a crossover and dedicated sub?

So, I got lucky and found my cab plans pretty quick in my files. I attached a .pdf of them. They are very vague and my writing is atrocious, but this is what I went off of when I made them. From what I can tell, I used 3/4" plywood, the dims are 29.5"wide by 18" tall by 17" deep and it looks like the front ports are 2.25" holes. I know I used Penn manufacturing spring loaded handles, the same they used on Mesa Shock racks back in the day. The ports are plastic and I got those on Ebay I think. they go about 4-6" into the cab. I know the bracing was this precut alder hardwood from Home Depot and was about 2"x 1" and I had to cut it around for the speakers and stuff. The bracing went all the way around every inside part and came just close enough so they didn't touch. Also, the speaker nuts I got form Ace hardware and the back jack plate was from Ebay too. I used tounge and groove joints on the entire thing with the top and bottom grooved, so it would stand up by itself and the front panel is tounged and slides into grooves in the sides and top and bottom. I glued the entire thing up and don't think I even nailed it and it's been stable and together since. I got all the materials minus the speakers for about $250 at the time. I got the wood from either Home Depot or Lowes. They have swiss cheese wood. Only the vaneer is void free when they say void free. I had to freakin fill and glue every hole in the pieces. It was a pain. Took more time to do that than anything. I would be cutting and it would shatter and I'd have to stop and go again. There's probably all kinds of voids in them I didn't hit, but they are sturdy and sound great. I'd recommend buying better wood if you build cabs. I got the clamps from Harbor Freight. You'll need a bunch of clamps. Like are least 8 or 10 minimum glueing 1 cab at a time. I put foam in them too, but I can't remember what. I just used an orbital sander to round the edges and got some fence material or something for the grills. Those are a pain to not make rattle. I'd probably make a detachable grill if I did it again. If I were to change anything and build them again I would use better wood and probably finger or dovetail joints. I would also angle the front baffle so they slant up a bit like a slant cab. That way the bottom cabs would be aimed at me more, or if I put them vertical they would aim in, or if I did a amp only show and the stage was high I could angle them better too. They are laser straight with how they beam with the sweet spot too. You do need a powerful amp to make these high wattage speakers to come alive. My VHT 2-50-2 does a nice job even though it's only 50 watts a side and each side of my cabs is 600 watts handling.

Hope this helps if you decide to do something like this.
 

Attachments

  • Cab plans.pdf
    1.9 MB · Views: 9

chopeth85

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
369
Reaction score
115
Location
Madrid, Spain
Ive got a custom 2x12 cab with this one and a v30 and its the BEST guitar tone ive ever heard. And ive compared my cab against cab way more expensive ( mesa boogie, diezel , friedman ...,)
 

c7spheres

GuitArtist
Joined
Jan 13, 2017
Messages
4,760
Reaction score
4,419
Location
Arizona
Ive got a custom 2x12 cab with this one and a v30 and its the BEST guitar tone ive ever heard. And ive compared my cab against cab way more expensive ( mesa boogie, diezel , friedman ...,)
I'm curious, do you run them separately ( 1 speaker cable to each speaker using a different side of a power amp to each speaker/ independent volume controls)? Or just one cable? I ask because I have wondered about this specific combination before and always thought the v30 would breakup before the EV was really pushing it's output due to the wattage differences, or is that just not an issue at high volumes?
 

chopeth85

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
369
Reaction score
115
Location
Madrid, Spain
I'm curious, do you run them separately ( 1 speaker cable to each speaker using a different side of a power amp to each speaker/ independent volume controls)? Or just one cable? I ask because I have wondered about this specific combination before and always thought the v30 would breakup before the EV was really pushing it's output due to the wattage differences, or is that just not an issue at high volumes?


I can´t say....i dont use the 120 w of the amp but it supposed to be in that way...its almost impossible to break that speaker hahaha. Though the cab allows you running independent, i use both speaker at the same time.
 

TedintheShed

Retired bassist pretending to play guitar
Joined
May 3, 2013
Messages
896
Reaction score
830
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Would it be crazy to try one of these in place of the subwoofer in my Theta Combo as well?

I ask because I’m reading they make for good bass guitar speakers too

Speaking as a bassist with 35 years experience, before I switched to Bag Ends EV10M's were all I played. Massive, clear, bell-like tones. No break up. They were very hi-fi (a more important characteristic on bass than guitar for most I'd wager)
 

Bearitone

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
5,768
Reaction score
3,324
So, I got lucky and found my cab plans pretty quick in my files. I attached a .pdf of them. They are very vague and my writing is atrocious, but this is what I went off of when I made them. From what I can tell, I used 3/4" plywood, the dims are 29.5"wide by 18" tall by 17" deep and it looks like the front ports are 2.25" holes. I know I used Penn manufacturing spring loaded handles, the same they used on Mesa Shock racks back in the day. The ports are plastic and I got those on Ebay I think. they go about 4-6" into the cab. I know the bracing was this precut alder hardwood from Home Depot and was about 2"x 1" and I had to cut it around for the speakers and stuff. The bracing went all the way around every inside part and came just close enough so they didn't touch. Also, the speaker nuts I got form Ace hardware and the back jack plate was from Ebay too. I used tounge and groove joints on the entire thing with the top and bottom grooved, so it would stand up by itself and the front panel is tounged and slides into grooves in the sides and top and bottom. I glued the entire thing up and don't think I even nailed it and it's been stable and together since. I got all the materials minus the speakers for about $250 at the time. I got the wood from either Home Depot or Lowes. They have swiss cheese wood. Only the vaneer is void free when they say void free. I had to freakin fill and glue every hole in the pieces. It was a pain. Took more time to do that than anything. I would be cutting and it would shatter and I'd have to stop and go again. There's probably all kinds of voids in them I didn't hit, but they are sturdy and sound great. I'd recommend buying better wood if you build cabs. I got the clamps from Harbor Freight. You'll need a bunch of clamps. Like are least 8 or 10 minimum glueing 1 cab at a time. I put foam in them too, but I can't remember what. I just used an orbital sander to round the edges and got some fence material or something for the grills. Those are a pain to not make rattle. I'd probably make a detachable grill if I did it again. If I were to change anything and build them again I would use better wood and probably finger or dovetail joints. I would also angle the front baffle so they slant up a bit like a slant cab. That way the bottom cabs would be aimed at me more, or if I put them vertical they would aim in, or if I did a amp only show and the stage was high I could angle them better too. They are laser straight with how they beam with the sweet spot too. You do need a powerful amp to make these high wattage speakers to come alive. My VHT 2-50-2 does a nice job even though it's only 50 watts a side and each side of my cabs is 600 watts handling.

Hope this helps if you decide to do something like this.
Dude you are awesome! Thank you so much!
 
Top