Wenge, mahogany and maple, 6-string custom build

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Ape Factory

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I will start off by saying I have neither the time nor the talent to pull this off on my own and have a very qualified luthier and all-around nice guy (James "Jamie" Roadman) in San Antonio helping me out (ok doing most of the heavy lifting) while I spit out the specs, wants and needs.

This project sort of started out with the Guthrie Govan Charvel model as the inspiration and I modified the specs from there including no chemicals used on the body.

The neck is 100% wenge, board and neck shaft. It's a 13 degree tilt-back Warmoth with stainless frets. It'll be a six sided reverse headstock design with no string tree and locking tuners.

The body is a roasted Honduran mahogany back with a roasted flame maple drop top, dual hum, no middle pickup, with a Floyd no-fine-tuner route and 50's strat shape. Musikraft handled the body and I should have that by Monday or Tuesday as it's in-route. I sent them a non-fine-tuner Floyd and some titanium studs and they now have CNC measurements for it. I've been told it'll be under four pounds easily.

The neck came in first and I'd ordered a ton of the hard parts as well, including a rather large quantity of luminlay dots from Japan. I ordered them in two different sizes along with two different side dot sizes so I'll have a bit leftover!

Anyway, I really wanted "hollow" dots or rings for inlays. Keeping it simple. Jamie came through by drilling out the center and placing a new piece of wenge in the middle. He found a piece that had a very similar grain structure. Using a lathe, he drilled out the center of each dot, practicing on a piece of plastic before moving on to the Luminlays. Admittedly, I was a bit skeptical especially considering it took about a month for them to arrive and they were not cheap.

The end result looks fantastic. Couldn't be happier.

A test to see which one looks best. Real Luminlay (undrilled) at the bottom.
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Let the drilling begin!
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Done. Makes it look so easy...
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Overall shot.
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Side dots (went with the bigger ones).
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Glow in the dark.
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I ordered the neck with frets and no inlays or side dots. Jamie did all of this on a fretted neck which, to my understanding, is not easy nor fun. So hats off to him.

Once the body comes in, we'll use inserts in the neck. The body only has two mounting holes and we plan on sculpting the heel and using ferrules instead of a neck plate and will be free to move the top two mounting holes. The lower horn will be beveled on the back.

After that, the tuner holes will be drilled, the headstock will be cut, the frets leveled (if needed) and we'll be 99% of the way there.

The body doesn't have any of the control routes drilled so it'll be open to my interpretation. I'll be using my quick disconnect solderless pickup system and most likely a three control layout, two volume, one tone, and a three way toggle. I also have the option of doing a 5-way blade "superswitch" but I like the toggle idea as I'm always hitting a 5-way in a few of the guitars I own. Always liked a PRS DGT layout.

I'll update as more progress is made. It's a pretty low key "standard" build by some of the stuff that gets posted on here.
 

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Ape Factory

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The body is here, they picked an exceptional top and the body is fairly clean on most fronts. I'll have to make a few small modifications that I can see right off the bat including slightly larger wiring routes and getting rid of the machining lines in the tremolo spring cavity. The wiring routes just need them a hair bigger for my quick disconnects.

The only "issue" I see with it currently is the holes for the tremolo stud bushings are a micron or two larger than the stud bushings themselves so I can easily insert or remove them with my fingers. This despite the fact I sent them the studs/bushings and the tremolo. So I'll either have to go to the toothpick method or possibly glue them in. Any recommendations?

A few quick iPhone pics after pulling it out of the box at work.
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StarbardGuitar

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What do you plan on doing for a finish on the body? The holes for the bridge mounting studs/bushings may be slightly oversized to account for finish building up, so that the finish doesn't crack when you go to install the bushings later on.
 

Ape Factory

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Originally the plan was no finish due to the torrefied woods but after physically examining the body, that wouldn't be a good move. I'm leaning towards just a thin satin nitro finish at this point, similar to the Charvel Govan.
 

Ape Factory

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A few photos with a quick naphtha wipedown plus a plethora of parts!
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Titanium oversized strap buttons, LOL. I have a "thing" for titanium.
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Ape Factory

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Dropped the body off today to begin work. Jamie's going to clean up a lot of the tooling marks, enlarge the wiring routes to 5/8" (necessary for my quick change plug ends),begin work on installing the neck, etc...

The first order of business is going to be to dowel the stud bushing holes. They're too big and one can easily slide them in and out of the holes. Glue isn't the best method and using slivers of wood, it'll be hard to get it centered and concentric the entire way around. So he's going to install mahogany dowels and re-drill. Best solution. They knew I wasn't going to use a thick finish (if any) so strange they didn't drill them to the appropriate size as I sent them along with the trem for measurements.

The pickup pockets also aren't deep enough so we're going to deepen the portion where the pickup legs go by about 1/8" or a bit more. We'll also install inserts and use machine screws to mount the pickups.

We quickly slipped the neck into the neck pocket. Not super tight but it'll leave a bit of room for alignment adjustment. I was worried the grain of the neck wouldn't go well with the flame maple top but it actually looks fantastic. Guthrie's going to be jealous, LOL.
 

Pikka Bird

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You definitely made the right choice with the inlay rings. :yesway:

I absolutely cannot ever go without a Sure Claw! I wish they'd make them for four springs though so I don't have to go for high tension springs every now and then.
 

electriceye

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You're putting together a REALLY nice axe. That flame top is sick. I see why you're sticking with the clear finish, but I'd take it a step further and apply a layer of black and then sand back to get a bigger 3D effect. But that's just me. :D

Can't wait to see and hear the final project!

BTW, I would give Muskrat a call just to ask if there was a specific reason the stud holes were drilled bigger.
 

Ape Factory

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electriceye, what sort of dye would you use to do that? I've not used dyes before, assuming just a wipe on water based stain like I could get at Stew Mac. I'm going to pick up some scrap to practice on so maybe I can try that as well and see if I like it.

The maple top is very 3D, it shifts and changes depending on the angle but never goes bland. I'm a little worried a matt poly, something like what on my Strandberg, will completely "flatten" everything and blend some of the flame. Definitely open to suggestions.
 

electriceye

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electriceye, what sort of dye would you use to do that? I've not used dyes before, assuming just a wipe on water based stain like I could get at Stew Mac. I'm going to pick up some scrap to practice on so maybe I can try that as well and see if I like it.

The maple top is very 3D, it shifts and changes depending on the angle but never goes bland. I'm a little worried a matt poly, something like what on my Strandberg, will completely "flatten" everything and blend some of the flame. Definitely open to suggestions.

I'm not a finish expert, so can't say for 100% sure. I'm still a beginner myself. But from everything I've seen, you use black (I believe the big diff is alcohol-based won't raise the grain, water-based will) and sand it back, it just makes it that much more stark.

Someone please correct me if I'm mistaken. I don't want this guy to ruin that top! :D
 

Ape Factory

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The rest of the neck mounting hardware came in. I ordered two different types of inserts, one stainless, one steel, with #8-32 machine screws, tapered flat top allen heads and neck ferrules in 14 and 15mm sizes. Should start to progress fairly quickly at this point.

Mated the neck to the body for a quick photo. The neck pocket has the 720 mod, it's .720" deep so the fretboard sits a mm or two above the body.
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VanDewart Guitars

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This looks really nice, man! One thing I would recommend with the dyeing is to not stain black to pop the grain. I've gotten the best results using a darker color of the overall color. So if you're going for the natural maple look, you can stain with an amber, then sand that back to leave it in the flame. It will still pop the grain, but will look way more natural than a black would.

I love the fretboard inlays too!
 

Ape Factory

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Musikraft made the body. Took some time due to finding a good top, torrefaction of the wood and the custom Floyd NFT route. Needs a bit of cleanup but not much, overall very happy with it.

Yeah I'm thinking amber for the stain, front and back now. Possibly even just using like a true-oil and then a matte poly over the top.
 

Ape Factory

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More photos and OCD in full bloom. I'm using Floyd's titanium bushings and despite the fact I'd sent them along with the trem, the resulting bushing holes were just a hair too large. I could insert and remove them with my fingers. So...Jamie thought the only right way to do things would be to plug and re-drill. Even if it meant there was only a micron sliver of the plug wood left. Only way to get it truly concentric and not move one bushing vs. the other due to shims.

Pics!
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Pikka Bird

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^That's not OCD (if it was anything it'd be OCPD (sorry, my OCPD compelled me :fever: )). Bushing holes must be tight as heck, because even the slightest wiggle room will snowball and make the hole into an oval eventually. That fix was necessary. :yesway:
 
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