Dark Lord of the Sith type build ;)

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Omzig

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So on to wood...had some super heavy rain here in the UK for the past few days some of which flooded my porch and worse still caused a small land slip outside my workshop...great fun.

Any hows got the board slotted and radius'ed (15.75" - 20" compound low to high) swapped the trussrod to an end wheel unit and then re jigged the LED slots in the back a little.

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After a few fails with trying to solder a continuous wire across each - + connection in the same channel (cutting the external sheath between each contact to expose the wire was a PITA) i decided to use a gauge 0.11 string, create x2 channels and then sheath the + connection arm on each LED,much easier to solder,once there all in and working i'll expoxy the whole channel.
 

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Omzig

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So the 0.11 String and sheath one arm of the led thing worked out really well ! only took about 5 mins to solder all the connections once everything was cut and placed in the beds/slots

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One slight/small issue is that when i radius'ed the board the Ds tape on the bottom right side of the board must have come away slightly as the led holes are 0.5mm to close to the top edge of the board...not the end of the world but im sure it will piss me off everytime i look at it from now on ;)
 

electriceye

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I always ask this of other builders: what do you use to route the truss wheel slot? Do you have a template? Or do you just concoct something on the fly? I’ve managed to do 3 of them, but I don’t have any templates and I’m always worried about screwing them up.

Also curious how you’re finishing the wedge, as they can be super splintery.
 

Adieu

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pretty cool but the acetone i used didn't clean it up 100% (checking the lable it seems it has 10% water in it as you cant buy 100% off the street in the UK now because a few years ago some fuck heads started to throw it in ppl's faces....),still was a good test,this has a bit of a fallout vibe


Ppls faces? Whaaat?

No, clean and pure solvents are not legally available to the unlicensed public almost anywhere as part of the War on Drugs

Because pure solvents make DIY chemistry too damn easy
 

redkombat

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Ppls faces? Whaaat?

No, clean and pure solvents are not legally available to the unlicensed public almost anywhere as part of the War on Drugs

Because pure solvents make DIY chemistry too damn easy

that highly depends on what solvents. anything used to make drugs is usually not pure and things used to make explosives are generally pure and easy to get. speaking in just the us idk about where else
 

Adieu

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that highly depends on what solvents. anything used to make drugs is usually not pure and things used to make explosives are generally pure and easy to get. speaking in just the us idk about where else

Not that kind of "make"

Solvents are essential in DIY chemistry for extracting shit from other shit.... like reagents from pills or plant material....

The reason most legal solvents in most places are now slightly diluted by a few % with something else isn't harm reduction, it's actually harm maximization.

See, the right pure solvent for the right precursor will pull just the needed ingredient for your future diy narcotics, while leaving behind all the weird unwanted botanicals, pill chalks, or whatever.... a sliiiiiiightly mixed solvent won't.

Bit of alcohol, ether, water, and acetone added in, and suddenly your pure extraction solvent becomes a universal goop remover (to various degrees of effectiveness, of course....but the point is it is useless for separating raw material A into a clear vial of pure dissolved precursor B and a bunch of filtered-off insoluble toxic trash C. Toxic trash now follows your solvent, dissolved in the small % of intentionally mismatched adulterant solvents.)


It's all so that your DIY drugs stay difficult and hazardous to make, risky to take, and will refuse to react at all by basic textbook cooks without many extra steps to ditch the adulterants.
 
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redkombat

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Not that kind of "make"

Solvents are essential in DIY chemistry for extracting shit from other shit.... like reagents from pills or plant material....

The reason most legal solvents in most places are now slightly diluted by a few % with something else isn't harm reduction, it's actually harm maximization.

See, the right pure solvent for the right precursor will pull just the needed ingredient for your future diy narcotics, while leaving behind all the weird unwanted botanicals, pill chalks, or whatever.... a sliiiiiiightly mixed solvent won't.

Bit of alcohol, ether, water, and acetone added in, and suddenly your pure extraction solvent becomes a universal goop remover (to various degrees of effectiveness, of course....but the point is it is useless for separating raw material A into a clear vial of pure dissolved precursor B and a bunch of filtered-off insoluble toxic trash C. Toxic trash now follows your solvent, dissolved in the small % of intentionally mismatched adulterant solvents.)


It's all so that your DIY drugs stay difficult and hazardous to make, risky to take, and will refuse to react at all by basic textbook cooks without many extra steps to ditch the adulterants.

to a degree this is true but pure solvents are still easy to get, and as far as anything that has to do with plant matter i can tell you from business experience that pure solvents even dmso are easy to get. acetone in itself is a solvent, the kind from a grocery store is 80% pure and not much of one while the kind from a roofing supply company its 100% pure and is also used in a host of major explosives. usually pure solvents at most need a business supply contact and 90% of the time you don't need an llc to get you just need contact information and $$$.

youre definitely well knowledge in this area i might add
 

redkombat

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and solvents are only used for extraction in both the cased of drugs and explosives from what i know of
 

Omzig

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OK time to get this build back on track (done finishing up another body project and having a bout of insomnia)

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Ppls faces? Whaaat?

Yep there was a trend a few years ago where "gang" members (mostly in London) started to throw corrosive/solvents in other "gang" members faces, and sometimes they just attacked random poeple or food delivery guys....media dubbed them "acid attacks" and goverment punished everyone not just the muppets committing the crime...

Anyhows i popped my head into a local nail bar and explained to the very shocked looking young lady (who im sure thought is this long haired bearded guy here to rob me) what i needed and why she sold me a bottle of 99% acetone and told me if i need more to pop back,i did ask her about the UV nail clear they use but she didn't know if it came in larger units....

Laters (just hope i don't get s.w.a.t 'ed at my workshop sometime soon) ;)
 

Omzig

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I always ask this of other builders: what do you use to route the truss wheel slot? Do you have a template? Or do you just concoct something on the fly? I’ve managed to do 3 of them, but I don’t have any templates and I’m always worried about screwing them up.

Also curious how you’re finishing the wedge, as they can be super splintery.

This was done on the CNC i just extended the board a few mm out past 24 and pathed the slot,wheel head pokes out of the end of the neck and ive cut a recess into the body neck pocket for it,I had to buy the wheel section and then chem weld it to the orginal TR with a section of 4mm allen.

I did a few tests last year on different oils and finished on wenge and found the best results for feel/finish were to take it upto 600 grit and then wipe with colron finishing wax to seal and then buff,the CFW doesn't seem to darked the wenge like trad oils do,but i also found that taking it upto 1500 with micro mesh gave a super glassy feel without effecting the colour.
 

JimF

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That body looks gorgeous!
I'm taking notes about finishing wenge for my other project :D
 

Omzig

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That body looks gorgeous!
I'm taking notes about finishing wenge for my other project :D

Come on what you building and where's your build log ? ;)

Well heres a pic of the Colouron wax vs unfinished vs CA from my other thread.

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Every oil finish or other clearcoat i tried pretty much killed all the contrast of the wood/grain, also as electriceye stated it's a little splittery so haddle/finish with care, but if you do get stung by a wenge splinter get it out sharpish as i will turn nasty pretty quickly!
 

Adieu

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Wax looks better.

But what about aforementioned splinter issues?? And how did you apply superglue (that CA right?) so evenly?? Or was that slather-and-sand?
 

Omzig

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and the flip side....god this black limba kinda stinks like a goats and donkey shed smell when its getting milled, yuck.

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Now i hope you guys don't think my heel sucks as bad as the real vaders bolt on design ;)

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For the ferrules im going to try something i saw a while ago in a random YT cnc video, I'll cut some 14mm by 10mm high wenge circles glue them into the already cut holes and then rerun the ball nose heel cut and then hole the wenge ferrules for the neck bolts,if it works they should become a smooth part of the heel....

im going to try some inset 3mm by 1mm deep magnets for the cavitiy covers, i found pairing them up one inset the body one inset in the cover plastic really helps the cover lock together better that just 1 magnet on a metal plate.

Wax looks better.

But what about aforementioned splinter issues?? And how did you apply superglue (that CA right?) so evenly?? Or was that slather-and-sand?

I really didn't find this FB that came off the cnc all that splintery,i have had them before while working it by hand and they do tend to hurt/ache a lot more that other wood splinters,might just be me?

CA i got is very thin i think its ref to as "water thickness" and is almost self leveling,it's the cheapest stuff in the store and as a glue it totally sucks but as a quick drop filler for finishes it's great and polishes up to a nice glassy finish, mind you i doubt id use it on a full body as a finish as it's pretty nasty if you get a wiff of it...
 

JimF

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Come on what you building and where's your build log ? ;)

This is the scratchbuild I started a hundred years ago - https://www.sevenstring.org/threads/jimf-first-build-slow-progress.328683/

Going to do a build thread / NGD when the lastest project is complete :D

Well heres a pic of the Colouron wax vs unfinished vs CA from my other thread.

49129089937_b3235053fe_b.jpg


Every oil finish or other clearcoat i tried pretty much killed all the contrast of the wood/grain, also as electriceye stated it's a little splittery so haddle/finish with care, but if you do get stung by a wenge splinter get it out sharpish as i will turn nasty pretty quickly!

That's interesting how the CFW has seemingly kept more colour in that leaving the wenge unfinished!
 
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