LiveOVErdrive's consolidated build thread

[LiveOVErdrive]

do the resawing the hoodrat way (table saw makes as deep of cuts as possible, finish the cuts with hand saw or sawzall). If you're a masochist you could just do the resawing all by hand. I prefer the table saw/sawzall method, but it's also pretty easy to buy pre-bookmatched pieces

I've done that for a neck blank before. It works. The kerf is so wide though that if you're trying to do figured maple or something it might not match up that well.

Then again if I'm not careful my bandsaw blade wanders just as much.

Might try the by hand method.

 

[KnightBrolaire]

I've done that for a neck blank before. It works. The kerf is so wide though that if you're trying to do figured maple or something it might not match up that well.

Then again if I'm not careful my bandsaw blade wanders just as much.

Might try the by hand method.

by hand is very, very tedious. Even with my dozuki saw it took ages to cut a bookmatched top and that thing rips through wood normally.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

by hand is very, very tedious. Even with my dozuki saw it took ages to cut a bookmatched top and that thing rips through wood normally.

Well I'll just stick to the band saw then. It does better on maple than on oak anyway. Soft maple.

 

[KnightBrolaire]

Well I'll just stick to the band saw then. It does better on maple than on oak anyway. Soft maple.

yeah, I was hand sawing quilted maple. with soft maple or walnut it's not as bad.

 

[Defyantly]

by hand is very, very tedious. Even with my dozuki saw it took ages to cut a bookmatched top and that thing rips through wood normally.

I have no problem getting a clean cut when hand sawing my problems are that i don't have the best workstation to hold the workpiece steady while sawing and i tend to wander. So my cuts are clean and this but either tend to wave in the middle or not follow my line.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

I decided to try to fix the alignment instead. I think I've finally got it right. Made an ABS baseplate for the bridge and moved the string locks on the head north and east a little. The low e is still closer to the edge than I'd like but I think it is playable. I think my neck is just a little too narrow to be honest.



BUT I think I can make this thing play. So that's good. I'll finish it up and then I'll think about building a MK2 model.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

So it turns out my neck is about 1.5mm narrower than it is supposed to be. I remember cutting closer than I meant to with my pin router so that's probably what did it. That's gonna be tough-to-impossible to get usable, so I'm gonna start over after all.

 

[Defyantly]

Is the string spacing to far off or the end strings to close to the edge?

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

The strings are too close to the edge. I mean I think it could be playable but it would be kind of a pain.

 

[Defyantly]

Yeah i do see that could be a problem..oh well..crank out another one! I mean, this one only took you like a couple days to do right?

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

I'm leaning toward more of a skervesen shoggie shape now. I have the attention span of a fly.

 

[Defyantly]

I'm leaning toward more of a skervesen shoggie shape now. I have the attention span of a fly.

Same here. I think it is just a musician thing. We see new shapes and we are like..."oooh pretty, i want one"

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

Heheh

Hahah

Hahahahhahahah

I just realized this body shape with the contours fits onto my ruined mahogany tele body from earlier.



The contours cut in already will be carved away by the bevels.

 

[KR250]

Is there any way to adjust string spacing on the headless hardware, or is it limited by its own width? I have a Jackson that has really narrow string spacing similar to a 6 string. It could be a "feature"

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

Some wood selection. Time to finally try out this richlite stuff.



Also figured mahogany because why not.

 

[Defyantly]

That black looks good against the blue! Whats the mahogany gonna go towards?

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

That black looks good against the blue! Whats the mahogany gonna go towards?

The neck. Mahogany body and neck. Hope it sounds good with the nazgul/sentient set I'm putting in.

I'm also going to break down and put in a truss rod. If I'm using nice woods I better not take any stupid chances. That's what the budget Build Challenge is for. Still making it an inch thick though.

 

[KnightBrolaire]

The neck. Mahogany body and neck. Hope it sounds good with the nazgul/sentient set I'm putting in.

I'm also going to break down and put in a truss rod. If I'm using nice woods I better not take any stupid chances. That's what the budget Build Challenge is for. Still making it an inch thick though.

I like the nazgul for chugs/br00tz, I had one in an all mahogany schecter and it kicked ass. sentient blows though.

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

I like the nazgul for chugs/br00tz, I had one in an all mahogany schecter and it kicked ass. sentient blows though.

Isn't it a lot like a jazz? I like those okay. Regardless I've got them so I'll use them but I can certainly swap it out for a paf pro if it sucks.

The paf pro is of course the one true perfect neck humbucker and I don't know why I bother with anything else.

 

[KnightBrolaire]

Isn't it a lot like a jazz? I like those okay. Regardless I've got them so I'll use them but I can certainly swap it out for a paf pro if it sucks.

The paf pro is of course the one true perfect neck humbucker and I don't know why I bother with anything else.

i don't really have any experience with the jazz, so I can't say. All i know is that it was bright and spiky sounding for leads, which is why I hated it, since I tend to prefer warmer smooth sounding shred friendly neck pickups (like the 59 or alnico II). I only liked it for cleans and some chordal work.