LiveOVErdrive's consolidated build thread

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LiveOVErdrive

LiveOVErdrive

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Well shit.

IMG_20190324_143907.jpg

IMG_20190324_143912.jpg

IMG_20190324_143901.jpg

Somehow my strings ended up shifted too far left. The neck is a little high too. I might not be able to fix this mistake.

But that's okay. There's a reason I did this with cheap wood. The good news is the bridges are FANTASTIC. And I actually like the thick neck a lot.

Time to try again I guess. Gonna change a few process things but overall I think I've got a good design here, and I'm gonna make it work.

Though I'm tempted to make it a 7 string.
 

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KnightBrolaire

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LiveOVErdrive said:
Stop making sense! :)

Yeah it can probably be fixed. I'm a bit frustrated though because I honestly don't know where I went wrong. Probably didn't zero the machine between steps at some point.
Click to expand...
something ALWAYS goes wrong with building ime. Even with a guitar like my blue sparkle tele, where the majority of the build was pretty smooth. I had to wait 3 weeks to get a tele control plate I ordered, and then a piece of the wenge neck chipped off while I was installing the nut, so I just spent the last couple of hours fixing that. Then my RFR tele got a big chip in the back, so I have to fix that as well :(
 
MikeNeal

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LiveOVErdrive said:
Stop making sense! :)

Yeah it can probably be fixed. I'm a bit frustrated though because I honestly don't know where I went wrong. Probably didn't zero the machine between steps at some point.
Click to expand...

I always confirm my zero before every single operation. Have you checked the calibration of your machine at all lately?
 
Solodini

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LiveOVErdrive said:
Well shit.

View attachment 67960

View attachment 67959

View attachment 67961

Somehow my strings ended up shifted too far left. The neck is a little high too. I might not be able to fix this mistake.

But that's okay. There's a reason I did this with cheap wood. The good news is the bridges are FANTASTIC. And I actually like the thick neck a lot.

Time to try again I guess. Gonna change a few process things but overall I think I've got a good design here, and I'm gonna make it work.

Though I'm tempted to make it a 7 string.
Click to expand...


I like the positivity and willingness to continue. :)
 
Defyantly

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I agree with knightbrolaire saying that you might be able to just move the headpieces closer together and shim the bridges. other than that this build is pretty awesome even saying that you just did it for fun and used cheap materials. You definitely could ceruse finish this as well. It might just take some time to open up the pine grain. a wire brush will do that job nicely.
 
LiveOVErdrive

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Thanks.

Moving the stuff over might work, but it'll be tough. I'd have to fill the holes for both the bridge and headpieces and them redrill them 1 or 2 mm to the right. I could maybe do it with a template I suppose.

That said there's a few things I want to change. I want to put a nut above the zero fret. These string clamps aren't quite enough to space the strings side to side. So that'll require a little bit of a redesign (which I've already modeled up in CAD).

This build was good practice regardless. My fretting technique is WAY better now. Same with carving and scraping and stuff. If I start from scratch I think it will go very well.
 
LiveOVErdrive

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Alright let's do it again. Gluing up a body blank. Construction lumber again, this time with a thin, bookmatched oak top. Should look nice with the bevels and stuff. Gonna carve all of those by hand this time.IMG_20190325_200328.jpg
IMG_20190325_200334.jpg
 
Defyantly

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Dude I'm quite jealous of how fast you can crank these out! Pretty soon your gonna have a collection like Pondman!
 
KR250

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I've made the same mistake before and now always do a test fitment with bridge and strings (or mockup) before gluing on the neck or routing for the bridge. In your case might be easiest to route out the neck pocket depth manually to get the height right, and then also horizontally to angle/shift the neck for string alignment and then glue in some shims. Then you'll also have a template to compare against when you do the next version.

EDIT: NM, moving that glued neck is probably not going to work. Following along for V2!
 
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LiveOVErdrive

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KR250 said:
I've made the same mistake before and now always do a test fitment with bridge and strings (or mockup) before gluing on the neck or routing for the bridge. In your case might be easiest to route out the neck pocket depth manually to get the height right, and then also horizontally to angle/shift the neck for string alignment and then glue in some shims. Then you'll also have a template to compare against when you do the next version.

EDIT: NM, moving that glued neck is probably not going to work. Following along for V2!
Click to expand...
That's a good idea. All the carving happens after it is glued in so next time I could definitely test fit before I glue. Thanks for the tip.
 
Defyantly

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Where did you find bookmatched oak? Did you buy it from a lumber yard or big box store?
 
LiveOVErdrive

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Defyantly said:
Where did you find bookmatched oak? Did you buy it from a lumber yard or big box store?
Click to expand...
Bought a 1x8 at a big box store (menard's) and resawed it on my band saw. It is definitely underpowered for that job but it can get it done. Might do it by hand next time though.
 
Defyantly

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You have a band saw with atleast an 8" resaw depth? Damn! Those are definitely not in my budget....
 
LiveOVErdrive

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Defyantly said:
You have a band saw with atleast an 8" resaw depth? Damn! Those are definitely not in my budget....
Click to expand...
It's actually just a cheap old 3/4hp craftsman one with a 30 dollar resaw blade. You can find them used for like 100 bucks. I inherited mine from my grandpa.
 
KnightBrolaire

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Defyantly said:
You have a band saw with atleast an 8" resaw depth? Damn! Those are definitely not in my budget....
Click to expand...
do the resawing the hoodrat way (table saw makes as deep of cuts as possible, finish the cuts with hand saw or sawzall). If you're a masochist you could just do the resawing all by hand. I prefer the table saw/sawzall method, but it's also pretty easy to buy pre-bookmatched pieces :shrug:
 
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